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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon/Pratt's Cra... : ... : Sheila (5.10a)
By: Denis O'Connor When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: John Fischer, Jay Jensen, 1971
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Chips Off the Ol' Block (5.10b)
By: Denis O'Connor When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed this on 9/27/09 on Tai's recommendation after meeting him at Wilson's. Very fun. Thanks to Tai and the other FA-ers for putting it up.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Nurse's Aid (5.10c R)
By: Denis O'Connor When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, Paul. I think Josh might have traversed off the second pitch a little early, underneath the great crack, without knowing what he was missing. It would be easy to do because it's invisible from below and an unlikely line. I can't imagine anyone would describe that traverse as "lackluster."
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Coronary (5.10 R)
By: Denis O'Connor When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The protection is not all that bad. It's comparable to Apoplexy (photo above). The first two placements are the same as Apoplexy, the next one is a shaky sideways stopper that might be useless, and the one above that is what I thought (hoped?) was a pretty good C3 placement. There is a long runout above that cam, but the moves get easier the higher you go.
That's not to say it wouldn't be scary to onsight it (I didn't dare), but it is leadable.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Wisecrack (5.6)
By: Denis O'Connor When: Jul 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard it said that there is no tougher 5.6 in the Gunks. And I would agree.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Snooky's Return (5.8) : Photo
By: Denis O'Connor When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, she is.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Retribution (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: Denis O'Connor When: Apr 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Brian. It was taken while hanging on a rope on No Solution (in between Retribution and Nose Dive).
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13) : Photo
By: Denis O'Connor When: Jan 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, Matthew. I added two more photos which I think give a better idea of the angle of this pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Fat City Direct (5.10d PG13)
By: Denis O'Connor When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fixed opposed wires mentioned above are no longer there.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Laughing Man (5.11b PG13)
By: Denis O'Connor When: May 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the guidebooks says the way Juan is doing it in the photo is a 5.10 variation. It says the 5.11 way is a bit right of that. We couldn't get up anything over there, so we did it this way.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Denis O'Connor When: May 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those photoshop skills need some work.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Roseland (5.9)
By: Denis O'Connor When: May 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An alternative and more exciting finish to the first pitch is to go straight up about halfway through the traverse and then make your way right to the chains. In the photo, it goes through the v-notch above the triangular roof which is up and right of the climber.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Denis O'Connor When: May 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: She'd like you to think so, but no.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: Denis O'Connor When: Apr 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This excellent route is even better when climbed as a single pitch. To do so, it's easier to take a straight line up to the roof rather than heading left to clip the bolt belay atop P1 and then traversing back right.
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