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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Nervous in Suburbia (5.10a)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Dec 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route. I first climbed this in 1989, then climbed again about a year ago. I was surprised that the edges were still pretty positive and the climbing hadn't changed much in 18 years.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorr... (5.7)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA was Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg circa 1993.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Hot Spot Area : Crowbar Cowboy (5.9)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The correct name is Crowbar Cowboy and FA was Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1994.
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Location: Robert 560 : XXX : Photo
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Robert is that your piece? Thats a beauty...and you know women like guys with a big gun!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Dumb-De-Dumb-Dumb (5.10b)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Pitch 1 - Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel and Sharon Murra, November 1987.
Pitch 2 - Claude Traufield and Peter Hubbel, December 1987.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Buttkicker (5.10a)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Dave Gottenborg and Deaun Schovajsa, December of 1987.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : Photo
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks like it could be a crag we called "Almost Asshole Rock". If so, it has several routes on it. I'll have to do some research to find the names and grades....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Mister Sol (5.10c)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent, Deaun Schovajsa, Peter Hubbel, CT Traufield, late 1980s. I placed the bolt (my first ever) and yes, the idea was to traverse into the crack.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Pine Line (5.7) : Photo
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like there is a piece in below him...weird
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks : ... : Toot Suite aka Toot Suit (5.11-)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was called Toot Suite (as in sweet), but my old memory is not so good anymore.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Return to Forever (5.11a)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Aug 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route would get 4 stars if not for the poor rock quality above the 2nd roof. Still, fun climbing when it was open!
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Big Black Face : Pakistani Route (5.9+)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Mike! We had a great time and enjoyed all of the areas that you directed us to. Charley and I felt like the grades from about 5.11a and harder were pretty close to what we were used to and the easier grades felt a little (or at times a lot) stiff.
The pocketed stone is some of the best I've seen - just beautiful.
Thanks again for all of your help and say hi to your wife and daughter from us!
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed in Spearfish Canyon over the 4th of July weekend. I wanted to says thanks to Mike Cronin for his generous beta on where to climb and for offering to show us all of the new areas that have opened up. Also thanks to all of the Spearfish new routers and trail builders. You have a great area with beautiful limestone and awesome routes. Everyone we met was super friendly and helpful. Thanks again!
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Camel Jockey : Child's Play (5.10c)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Other than a couple of sharp crimps, this route is way fun. Do it!
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Addiction : Corner Drug (5.11a)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steep it is with beautiful movement on big holds and side pulls. This one is sweet and it gets shade early in the afternoon!
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : The Main Wall : Wild Horses Wall : The Devil Wears Spurs (5.10d)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beautiful route with amazing pockets. The crux involves a big move to a huge bucket and occurs about 1/3 of the way up the route. Do this one if you are in the area!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Photo
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jon, you're sick and twisted individual. Let's get out and climb sometime!
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Big Black Face : Pakistani Route (5.9+)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice warm up route for this area. Steep, good holds all the way. I thought that this was easier and more straight forward than the 5.9 to the right (Lost Ninja).
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike,
Thanks so much. I'll call you later today when I have my guidebook handy. Maybe I'll see you on Friday...
Deaun
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Mike! An area that I read about was called Shadowlands and was reported to have great rock and was shady. I am heading up to Spearfish tomorrow evening and the forecast looks, well...toasty.
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, I heard from a friend that the guidebook only has about 60% of the established routes in it. Is there a local notebook or something that has more up to date routes and crags?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Lips (5.11c)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a good route if it was a little longer. Still, better than some of the other routes on this section of rock.
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Location: Michael Moon : 1st time at Joshua Tree : Photo
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jun 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks reeaally overhanging...
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Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: Jun 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, I haven't been to Spearfish yet (am heading there in 3 weeks), but there are lots of Forest Service campgrounds close by. Check out this link for a map of the area with campgrounds and descriptions, fees, etc.
www.fs.fed.us/r2/blackhills/recreation/rec_activites.shtml#c>>>
The locals may have some beta on free camping close by and if I find something while there I'll post it up.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Teenage Wristband (5.10-)
By: Deaun Schovajsa When: May 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a quality route (much better than its neighbor - Route Fluffer). Fairly sustained climbing from top to bottom with no real single crux.
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