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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater : False Prophet (5.11c)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: JJ super fun route with great move and sequences, strong work.
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Location: AZ : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Resurrection (5.11+)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work JJ, must admit that this was more challenging than I had guessed from the ground, hope to get back up there and send soon. Oh yeah, slings and nuts would have been nice to have!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Christianity Spire : Blast from the Past (Isaac'... (5.10)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember when this was rated 5.9! It seems that it felt hard even as 5.10. It also seems that there was only one set of bolt anchors at the top of the second and somehow we had to do a terrifying rope stretching traverse to a manky tree belay on the third pitch. The old sheet metal bolt hangers on the rap/old aid route were pretty sweet though.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trying to get a feel for how hard this is, how does it compare to say the Organasm or Castles in the Sand in Sedona? Thanks.
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Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ratty rap anchors replaced with new chains at top of No Justice for Rodney courtesy of Flagstaff SimianCrew. Would have liked to update the bolts but... didn't want to upset the status quo.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: Dean Hoffman When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this a couple years ago with some friends, 2 parties of two. First leader took about 20 slings and maybe a couple of nuts and started blasting, his partner simulclimbed behind him unclipping the gear and leaving it in place. My partner was right on his heels clipping in the pre placed gear and I brought up the rear cleaning everything. From bottom to top I think it took us about 1 hr 15 minutes or right about there. Fantastic route!
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Location: AZ : Buffalo Park : Texas Teabag (V1-2 PG13)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember a day around 00-01 when we were having a good session and Spence came back from taking a leak and informed the crew that someone was destroying a cactus so they could "send their proj" well Nick took great offense to this and the poor kid doing the landscaping almost got his head ripped off. Hopefully that cactus is still going strong and no more landscaping has been done on this problem.
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Location: UT
By: Dean Hoffman When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone up by the creek and have an eye on the weather?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek
By: Dean Hoffman When: Apr 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just curious if anyone is in the area and how the weather is? Thanks
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Location: AZ : Buffalo Park : Community Service (V4)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't worry about that rock behind you, looks intimidating but unless you explode off the rock you won't hit it.
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : The White Wall : Sporte (5.10c)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a "heads up" literally, about halfway up this route is a block around the size of the old block on Mordor with significant fracture lines almost all the way around it. I know, I know True Value has looked like that for year, but might be good to try and avoid this.
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Location: AZ : Buffalo Park : The Prow (V2)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be kind to the oak, you never know when it might save your life
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Location: AZ : Buffalo Park : Sit up Stand up (V1-2)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As far as I know only sent by Spence, Terrible Tam, Truc, and myself. Those were the good old days
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Location: AZ : Buffalo Park : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Mar 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Theres a seldom done gaston crimpfest, "the Spanish Butcher" that starts to the right of the big chicken head and left of the slab problems. Pretty contrived, but definitely worth doing, only seen a few sends.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Walk the Plank (5.3 PG13) : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jan 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup, almost a week later I'm pretty sure the middle toe is broken, damn.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : The Moose's Butte : Skyline (5.10+)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ahh the infamous runout on pitch two. I found myself on this section with no nuts a few years ago and some small cams, however they were the wrong small cams. I had to place them as passive pro and equalized before I tiptoed up to the lonely bolt up there. Way fun, I did end up bailing from the anchor up there due to the impending monsoon on the horizon. Good climbing though!
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jan 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 70m rope will get you safely down the Coke Bottle Raps. Makes the hike in a bit more mellow and you don't have to worry about that pesky tag line.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte : Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll... (5.10c)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Nov 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this again, third time, makes for a great short day winter route, and had to upgrade it on my star rating. This climb is great, fun moves, good exposure, comfy belays and a cool summit. Really enjoyable route most definitely worth the hike, which is relatively easy and straight forward. Only down side is the two ropes, but not really a big detractor cause youre not carrying much else! Go climb it!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower : Hot Pink Hummer Tour (5.10+ R)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Nov 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, don't forget the jump across, not the widest or the wildest but pretty sweet none the less! Cool summit makes for a fun day out.
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : Mall Wall : Bluto Tastes An Olive (5.9+)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to step on any toes but there may be better places to spend your money on hardware other than trying to cram one more route in at the Pit. Good effort none the less.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.12a/b)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Sep 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any word on the spring? Still running?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
By: Dean Hoffman When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of this past weekend, I'd say the approach "road" Sister Superior is pretty washed out, we got maybe a 1/3 of the way in and finally turned around, hadn't planned on the two hour approach. Definitely wouldn't try any of the road in anything other than 4x4 truck with clearance.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first two pitches of this climb were worth the hike alone. Unfortunately we didn't get a good look at the summit due to an inaccurate description in the falcon guide we had with us. Sure would have been nice to know that you're supposed to head up from the bolt on the third pitch instead of going all the way around the corner to the anchors over there. I would agree that the best belay for pitch one is off a gear anchor on the big ledge, comfy and safe, much nicer than the hanging belay a... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally climbed this yesterday after coming off ancient art. Took a #3 up but didn't place it. Clipping the "bolt" was very insecure, especially since I didn't have any gear below it, not sure how folks under 6ft would do it. However, once you're in that finger lock just left of the bolt the holds seem to just get better and better. Very cool moves. Could use some new webbing up top, didn't have any with us, but anchor was pretty manky. Enjoy
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Organ : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike it looked like chalk, but damn who takes the time with a chalk bag to do all that defacing? Thanks for getting a clean up going.
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