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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Priest Draw : Priest Draw : ... : Pinch a Loaf (V2)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you sure this isn't "Pinching the Loaf"? Awesome problem.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Priest Draw : Howard Draw : ... : The Submarine Traverse (V4-5)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard a lot of people call this the submarine traverse. Also I'd say more in the V3ish range. Awesome problem though, something for everybody.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Crown King Area : King Dome
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only climbed here once and had a blast. Just note that the 4WD road takes you to a sweet camping spot basically on top of Kingdome, but be prepared for some of the standard desert pinstriping and rough travel. Perhaps the road has been improved but I remember being psyched we had an 85 land cruiser.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Buffalo Park : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Double Dip comes up through the big boulder in the center, also wicked Mattson? problem starts farther back in the cave. Good traverse comes from Left side in, either finishing at base of Double dip, or cranking up through double dip for good pump.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Buffalo Park : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Centerpeice in the Center, Commando on the right, and unknown awesome problem starting on slopers just up and left from Centerpeice start and firing to good ledge up and right, then cranking through crimps.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Northern AZ Bouldering : Buffalo Park : Commando (V4)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great problem with multiple eliminates possible, throw off the low holds, or try crossing right hand to crimp and firing to the lip, think this might be a Mattson Problem.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : ... : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to finish the story, when my buddy got to the top of Mayflower two guys had rapped in and cleaned my piece off the route and said not a word about the rack. Lame. Anyhow finally got back on the route this summer and fired the lead clean, using locking biners on all my gear!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : ... : Photo
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg, to add the proverbial insult to injury after my partner and I had disengorged said carabiner from the back of my knee while still hanging from that bomber nut, soloing up that chossy 5-easy around the corner with yellowish goo coming out of my leg and hobbling to the car someone swiped my entire rack! Yup in our haste it was left atop Mayflower and when a buddy got to the ledge 45 minutes later it was vanished! Poof! Lamer than Lame!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Twilight Zone (5.11- PG13)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route recently and thought it was fantastic, while a bit heady definitely one of the most classic routes at W.E.. Definitely recomend it. Long slings, maybe a double length runner for protecting the back of the alcove.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Trapeze (5.10+)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little circus trick, worth doing... once...
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Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Country Club Cave : Birdie (5.10d)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jul 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey not being from Durango I'm not sure what the local standard is, but on July 7th I was climbing this route and there was a bird nest with new hatchlings just about at the third bolt. I down climbed rather than bother the chicks. Might be worth skipping this one for a little while.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Top of the World Overlook : Cooler than Jesus (5.10a)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: So only climbed the last pitch of Cooler Than Jesus, it was hot and late we rapped in around 6:30. Anyhow I would put this at a CH4 on the above mentioned rating system. I've done Epi, and a handful of wicked chimneys in Sedona and damn this was tight. And holy crap get your runout head on cause its a doozy. I really wish I had been wearing my carhartts. Amazing setting, scenery, and solitude, oh aside from the small snake sharing the belay with JenRn. Beautiful area overall, however not s... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Top of the World Overlook
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a note about this approach, just this drive on the 5th of July, whew it was hot and I think, perhaps, the road has gotten worse. Driving a 05 Tacoma we were in for some rough driving, no major damage but there were some nervous moments. Definitely would not try this in anything other than a 4wd truck with good clearance. However the view alone was worth it all.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : Way Gone Wall : The Energizer (aka Aerial V... (5.12a PG13)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jun 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think Boulder problem or so the story goes, the Verm back in the day sans rope and bolts
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Bushdoctor (5.11-)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had a blast on this route, caught myself laughing with my feet swinging making the ledge traverse. Can't wait to try straight up.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : The White Wall : Mordor (5.10d)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start of Mordor is a tad harder these days after the chunk of stone holding the first bolt and starting holds peeled off this winter. Has been rebolted and other loose rock cleaned thanks to Chris Thornley I believe. Thanks Chris!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : North Mesa
By: Dean Hoffman When: Apr 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: this area is a great summer hang, Andy K., the Hurricane, and Rusty Cage, with a little fat bastard thrown in will keep you busy in the shade. Lots of 3's for Rusty Cage!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : North Face/West Crack (5.9+)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Feb 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic tower and home of two of my most favorite epics. Once with Willie C. when we had to bail after I lost my breakfast while leading the 2nd pitch, and once with Felix and Adi Amar when we were benighted and experienced the adventure that is trying to find rap anchors in the pitch black. It was only 11 when we got back to the packs and Adi's grandparents didn't complain too much when they came home to find us raiding their fridge before we went back to Flag, sweet route and good climbing... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Duck for Cover (5.11)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boo, Seths a bully! Hey are you in town or cavorting around these days and picking on folks on the internet?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Duck for Cover (5.11)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is amazing, don't let the name scare you off. Those of you skeptical about 6-7 #2's take heed you'll want them all. Greg Prescott and I bagged the second while Gordon heckled from below. If you like hard splitter hands this is the one for you. Some of the best and hardest climbing I've done in Sedona. I would recommend breaking the first pitch into two. Also, the anchors could use some chains if you have community service hours to serve.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Sine Wall : Tangent (5.10 PG13)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on Koles recomendation, while he laughed as I whimpered through the start, 00 metolius in a shallow horizontal is all I could find for pro. The rest of the route is amazing and definitely do the step across.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll... (5.10c)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Dec 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this a few days ago after trudging for miles in search of a spire that seems to have vanished. Anyhow great winter route all in the sun. I agree with Will #2 and #3 are all you really need. You'd have to work to get anything else in. Belays are very comfy and the climbing, no harder than 10 but exciting none the less. Good route if you want to travel light or are short on time. 2 ropes to get off.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Lost in Space (5.10a/b)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Nov 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this route the past weekend and had a blast. Ole Willie C. is correct the last pitch makes it all worth it. the first three are okay. Forgot the 4.5 and 5 and had to grovel a bit on the last pitch but survived unscathed. Seems like this would be a good continuation to the day if you climbed Mars Attacks, Big Corner and then walked over here. Also the first pitch is a bit tricky to find head way up the gully till you are just below the limestone band. Search the slabs about you... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Apr 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just climbed this route on a Blitzkrieg trip from Flagstaff, we drove in thursday, climbed friday, drove back friday night. It was well worth the commute. Fantastic Route with great climbing. We brought a double set to #3, a 3.5 and a 4 camalot and 10 slings. If we were to do it again I'd bring only a single set to #3, the 4 maybe and 15 slings and thats it! Stellar stellar route, cold throughout the day though and a little snow at the top of the 8th pitch. Notes on the Rappel,... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Regular Route (5.7)
By: Dean Hoffman When: Feb 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is a great intro to Sedona Route, challenging climbing for the uninitiated and awesome summit. It most definitely can be rapped with one 60 meter rope, just be sure you have the middle marked. Also as far as the rack is concerened, most would do fine with a single set from around blue metolius to "old style, not C4" #4 Camalot (only needed on the second pitch, but having just done it without one I'd recommend not forgetting it!) Also to whomever is chalking up the route wit... more >>
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