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Member Since: Jul 30, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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ddriver
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Point Rank: # 2,112
Total Points: 303
Last Year: 55
Last 30 Days: 3
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 429 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 44 | Page Improvements | Comments 73 | Posts 250 | Stars 54 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Martinez Mind Melter (5.10c/d)
By: ddriver When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Really clean now.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Pogo Punk (5.10-)
By: ddriver When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Yo, choss.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
By: ddriver When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Will depend on the month, but in July the leader will get sun directly in the face by 12:30 or 1, making visibility problematic. By 3 or so the base (but not the routes) starts to come back into shade and the conditions improve enough to go for it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : P-38 (5.10+) : Photo
By: ddriver When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: How DO they get the rope up there?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Social Engineering (5.10b)
By: ddriver When: Jul 6, 2015

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Comments: I thought the left start as in the description (which already has a bolt) worked fine for this route and the center one.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
By: ddriver When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: The traditional descent from Triple Cracks was to down climb the low 5th class dihedral behind the belay alcove and then down climb the Smorgasbord dihedral and slab to the large boulder (by Rapeller's Rock) overlooking the base. Best exit is underneath that boulder though other options exist.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: ddriver When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Read the comments circa 2008. When the block came off it made the route easier than before and the rating has not changed to reflect that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Subterrainian (5.11a) : Photo
By: ddriver When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: The route is left of the crack line, Double Standard, not right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Chalking Dead (5.9)
By: ddriver When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: This route description is actually for the left-facing dihedral at far right. There are no bolts.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: ddriver When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: several "few" ;)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : S&M / B&D (5.10c R)
By: ddriver When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: FWIW, there's a thread where these are "discussed." mountainproject.com/v/bolted-r...
I would disagree that the bolts are on Jailbait, but there are now 3 or 4 bolts protecting the start to S&M.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : South Ridge (5.10a PG13)
By: ddriver When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Superb!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Ears Between (5.7)
By: ddriver When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: I did the left direct start variation (with pin and sling) and thought it was easily 5.9. I did this combined with the upper face out right as a single 60-m pitch but it ate up my rack. The Donkey's Ears 5.7 chimney is nothing less than spectacular. Echoing other's comments re the descent, we did three rappels and were forced to rope an exposed ledge traverse back to the righthand ridge to avoid the death scree. You should probably stop after two rappels and work right. Once you're on the r... more >>


Location: MT : Humbug Spires : Southwest Face (5.8)
By: ddriver When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: The pitch 3 description here states: "Continue up the chimney until reaching a vertical crack. Continue on this vertical crack until a horizontal crack appears on the left (takes a great #2!) and then traverse back into the chimney." I chose to continue straight up the vertical crack for another 30-40 feet or so past the horizontal (as is shown in the '95 Falcon guide) until it ended, where I made a face traverse left to a nice belay ledge. This eliminated one pitch and provided what app... more >>


Location: MT : Blodgett Canyon : Drip Buttress : Standard Route (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Aug 5, 2014

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Comments: Fun route, survivable on a 95 degree day. We belayed as in the description given here, except for linking the final two pitches. The first belay tree is no more. Agree with going left to start the third rather than wandering right per the Falcon guide. I thought the chimney portion was really clean and some of the best climbing on the route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Flamin' Freddie (5.9 R)
By: ddriver When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: Traverse left under the roof, go up the dihedral, work straight and up finish left. Protects moderately well using small tcu's to mid-sized cams, nothing special needed. You don't "need" wires.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Lord of the Long Arms (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: This is damn good. If it were by the road it would be a fave.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Hydroplane (5.10c)
By: ddriver When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Good stuff. I flunked reading comprehension on this one, only saw the first bolt on the upper slab and climbed the dihedral instead. Will go back but the dihedral is super so there's that. I'm 5'6" and had to stretch for a couple clips but the climbing itself posed no reach problems.


Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : ... : Forbidden Corner (5.9 R)
By: ddriver When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: Good climb but very committing. My memory from a number of years ago is that pitches 7 and 8 were the most exciting, by far. This is a 5.9 route for solid 5.10 climbers.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Window Blind Peak Area : Window Blind Peak - North R... (5.7)
By: ddriver When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: There are two bolt/chain rappel line options for descent. One starts at the top of the west face route (have not done it). The first rappel described here is from a small mountain mahogany in order to reverse the 15' high headwall. This should be replaced. Once you've done this, descend left to a shelf above the arch rather than descending the rib. A beefy two bolt anchor just gets you to the ground with double 60's. There is an intermediate station, presumably for those with double 50's. ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Addis Ababa (5.7)
By: ddriver When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Nice setting but unfortunately discontinuous.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Aqualung (5.8)
By: ddriver When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday, thought it was pretty darn good. There are six bolts, one below the roof, three on the slab above, and two higher. I thought the finishing moves above the last bolt were worthwhile, would not recommend a rap station there. Finger-sized gear for the belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Aqua Velvet (5.11a) : Photo
By: ddriver When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Edit to note that Ruckman's seems to have this and T.H.C. backerds. Carry on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Four Twenty (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Really good climbing and, yes, no gear required. I'd say the 3rd bolt forces you left onto more awkward terrain but no biggie.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Retro'd Hardman (5.10d)
By: ddriver When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. I didn't read closely enough and wound up doing the old Resin Hardman finish left, which is fun in itself but without gear makes for poor protection for the second. Take a couple tcu's should you choose this finish. The bolt for the straight up finish is not visible until you've committed to pulling that roof.


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