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Member Since: Jul 30, 2007
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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All (354) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (33) | Comments (54) | Posts (213) | Stars (48) | Ratings (5)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Addis Ababa (5.7)
By: ddriver When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Nice setting but unfortunately discontinuous.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Aqualung (5.8)
By: ddriver When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: Did this yesterday, thought it was pretty darn good. There are six bolts, one below the roof, three on the slab above, and two higher. I thought the finishing moves above the last bolt were worthwhile, would not recommend a rap station there. Finger-sized gear for the belay.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Aqua Velvet (5.11a) : Photo
By: ddriver When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Edit to note that Ruckman's seems to have this and T.H.C. backerds. Carry on.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Four Twenty (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Really good climbing and, yes, no gear required. I'd say the 3rd bolt forces you left onto more awkward terrain but no biggie.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aguaworld : Retro'd Hardman (5.10d)
By: ddriver When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. I didn't read closely enough and wound up doing the old Resin Hardman finish left, which is fun in itself but without gear makes for poor protection for the second. Take a couple tcu's should you choose this finish. The bolt for the straight up finish is not visible until you've committed to pulling that roof.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Chalking Dead (5.9)
By: ddriver When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Super fun position, fingerlocks all the way, worthwhile even if it is short. Four tcu's was plenty gear for this.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Double Tap (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Clean bullet-proof rock, fun route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Encore (5.7)
By: ddriver When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Nice climb Brian on pretty rock, but if this isn't 5.5, what is? Stop grade inflation ;).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7)
By: ddriver When: Aug 6, 2013

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Comments: Finally did this route and was surprised at how consistently good it is. I expected lots of rounded runnels, but there is really very little of this. There is absolutely no awkward climbing required here and no polished rock, either. Classic friendly climbing, well worth repeating.

I would change the route description for pitch 2. There is no reason to climb the "awkward chimney." Stay in the dihedral. It is clean, protects well, and the step across to the belay is easy. This variation ... more >>


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: ddriver When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Re the pitch 11 description, the inital bolted face (3 or 4 bolts) is easy enough to follow. Once you pull up on the slab below the huge hueco, move right around its end. The first bolt is actually somewhat low and right. I placed it and when I first came back to repeat the route I missed clipping it so I know that one is easy to miss. But, the following bolt on the steeper face is easy to find.

Apparently, someone has recently done an alternate finish (on purpose) by going around the lef... more >>


Location: UT : Public Comments needed on L...
By: ddriver When: Jun 13, 2013

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Comments: Re Crescent Crack approach, all you're losing is the roadside parking shortcut of 100 feet or so, which has been an issue for UDOT for years. Starting from Park-n-ride only adds about 2 minutes.

If you read the scoping notice you'll see that climbers are getting a great deal out of this. The outer loop (yellow) becomes official system trail constructed and maintained by USFS, likely with SLCA aid. The secondary trails (orange) get the USFS upgrades, to include belay platforms, but will be m... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: ddriver When: Jun 5, 2013

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Comments: I think the recommended descent is to traverse over towards Question Mark and go down Pete's Staircase, at least thats how I've done it. Some exposure getting there, but you can rap it with a single 60.
Your 5th pitch description sounds familiar.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Subterrainian (5.11a)
By: ddriver When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: Ben's wrong, twice even. I like it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9)
By: ddriver When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: "Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch."

If you don't already know, this would be your clue that this is not a 160' pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beauty (5.11b) : Photo
By: ddriver When: Oct 13, 2012

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Comments: No, that's vanilla ice cream.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: Yessir, two-bolt anchor on the face shortly after leaving the corner. One bolt and a pin above this belay before reaching the ledge. Seems out of place. Saw River's Edge anchors too late. Edit: Just did this last week so that belay is surely still there.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: ddriver When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: I've done this twice now, first in 95 and again a month ago.

I don't recall what topo(s) we used, but I think the approach needs some clarification. First, finding the edge of the plateau is fairly easy, but one landmark near the descent is an erratic boulder with a large stone on it, something of a natural cairn. If you head cross country once the drainage trail goes faint this will work for you. The descent I've used both times does not involve ANY gully time. You simply walk/downclimb r... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Oct 3, 2012

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Comments: Based on the description here of 160' and Ruckman's topo showing an 80' first pitch, I took a single 70m for this. The second pitch (from the chains, not the tree ledge) is really about 120', so we did a short pull from the tree. Moving the first belay to the block right of the tree just makes too much sense to me. Seems the tree used to have slings?


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Photo
By: ddriver When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Looks great.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beauty (5.11b)
By: ddriver When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Damn good stuff. Not a sport climb.
BTW, pitch 3 has 3 bolts, thankfully, as the gear gets a bit natty up there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast
By: ddriver When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: We hiked in there yesterday, missed your cutoff (Its only 50 feet past the tree) even though we backtracked and walked by it 3 times. Maybe the lighting was poor. Wound up going up to the little sandy platform with nice trail leading to the creek, and a one-hop boulder crossing that was plenty easy in low water conditions. The opposite side of the creek has obviously seen a fair amount of wandering around, and it was very easy to walk downstream on a trail that got better as we went. Found y... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress
By: ddriver When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: smax, we also saw that yesterday and climbed it. Looks like a botched job that was sort-of cleaned. The two remaining bolts were not placed deeply enough and the hangars are spinners. There are probably a half dozen studs still in place, a couple with nuts. I'd rate it 5.3 or 5.4. The rap station is handy though for routes to the right.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : PTFE (5.9- PG13)
By: ddriver When: Jun 25, 2012

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Comments: Noticed the tr/variation comment, so I drew the line in on the existing photo for Touch of Teflon, etc. Point is there is an independent line that can be reasonably lead with gear and bolts are not warranted.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: ddriver When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: See the Notch Peak overview page for an update re the ladder at the approach step. There is now a permanent installation.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak
By: ddriver When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: The old rope ladder (long gone) at the step on the approach to the North Face has been replaced with a more permanent installation. First round of work was May 28, finished June 3. You may want to harness up at the base of the step so you can daisy in and make the upper transition safely, but the June 3 work probably negates that need. Two fixed raps were also replaced, the upper also used as a batman. Note that the fixed line just above the step is in the bowl to looker's left, not the main ... more >>


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