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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Subterrainian (5.11a)
By: ddriver When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben's wrong, twice even. I like it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Smitty's Wet Dream (5.9)
By: ddriver When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Either rap with one rope (Cranial Prophylactic's anchors), or do CP's second pitch."
If you don't already know, this would be your clue that this is not a 160' pitch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beauty (5.11b) : Photo
By: ddriver When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, that's vanilla ice cream.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yessir, two-bolt anchor on the face shortly after leaving the corner. One bolt and a pin above this belay before reaching the ledge. Seems out of place. Saw River's Edge anchors too late. Edit: Just did this last week so that belay is surely still there.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: ddriver When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this twice now, first in 95 and again a month ago.
I don't recall what topo(s) we used, but I think the approach needs some clarification. First, finding the edge of the plateau is fairly easy, but one landmark near the descent is an erratic boulder with a large stone on it, something of a natural cairn. If you head cross country once the drainage trail goes faint this will work for you. The descent I've used both times does not involve ANY gully time. You simply walk/downclimb r... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Great White Icicle Area : Daddy Long Legs (5.9+)
By: ddriver When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Based on the description here of 160' and Ruckman's topo showing an 80' first pitch, I took a single 70m for this. The second pitch (from the chains, not the tree ledge) is really about 120', so we did a short pull from the tree. Moving the first belay to the block right of the tree just makes too much sense to me. Seems the tree used to have slings?
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Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Photo
By: ddriver When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks great.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beauty (5.11b)
By: ddriver When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn good stuff. Not a sport climb.
BTW, pitch 3 has 3 bolts, thankfully, as the gear gets a bit natty up there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast
By: ddriver When: Aug 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We hiked in there yesterday, missed your cutoff (Its only 50 feet past the tree) even though we backtracked and walked by it 3 times. Maybe the lighting was poor. Wound up going up to the little sandy platform with nice trail leading to the creek, and a one-hop boulder crossing that was plenty easy in low water conditions. The opposite side of the creek has obviously seen a fair amount of wandering around, and it was very easy to walk downstream on a trail that got better as we went. Found y... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress
By: ddriver When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: smax, we also saw that yesterday and climbed it. Looks like a botched job that was sort-of cleaned. The two remaining bolts were not placed deeply enough and the hangars are spinners. There are probably a half dozen studs still in place, a couple with nuts. I'd rate it 5.3 or 5.4. The rap station is handy though for routes to the right.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : PTFE (5.9- PG13)
By: ddriver When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Noticed the tr/variation comment, so I drew the line in on the existing photo for Touch of Teflon, etc. Point is there is an independent line that can be reasonably lead with gear and bolts are not warranted.
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: ddriver When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: See the Notch Peak overview page for an update re the ladder at the approach step. There is now a permanent installation.
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak
By: ddriver When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The old rope ladder (long gone) at the step on the approach to the North Face has been replaced with a more permanent installation. First round of work was May 28, finished June 3. You may want to harness up at the base of the step so you can daisy in and make the upper transition safely, but the June 3 work probably negates that need. Two fixed raps were also replaced, the upper also used as a batman. Note that the fixed line just above the step is in the bowl to looker's left, not the main ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face Right (5.9)
By: ddriver When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done a version of this, now twice, both times starting in the left crack to the top of the first pillar then moving right. The left start is good but warrants extreme care due to stacked flakes at the start. This first pitch is very nice.
Exiting the belay to start the second pitch is really quite dicey. There are a handful of flakes that ring hollow and are fractured, as well as a pillar wedged in the left chimney, any of which are suspect and would compromise both leader and belayer... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gamesmanship (5.8+)
By: ddriver When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought pitch 2 was just as good as pitch 4, neither of which in any way compares to pitch 1. Nonetheless, a very worthwhile outing.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Turbocharge (5.10a)
By: ddriver When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went to the tree and it sounded much too hollow and soft for my liking, so I downclimbed and did the leftward traverse through the roof to make it into a 2-pitcher. This needs some anchor work for it to be a safe one-pitch option.
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Valley Region : Beer Walls : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: ddriver When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route last week and that tree is beyond dead. Topped out. Later in the day saw a group of 6 or so TR'ing off the tree. One of you locals should cut the rap slings before someone gets hurt.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Tank Canyon : Old School Rock : Dag Nasty Part Deux (5.9)
By: ddriver When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would not recommend this route mostly due to rock quality on the headwall. Its also disconcerting to stand on suspect pillars with the bolt below your feet in said pillar. Last complaint is placement of a hanging belay in relatively suspect rock when a good stance with good rock is 3 feet lower.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Redrum : Redrum (5.10c)
By: ddriver When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: fun climbing on crappy (looking) rock... needed a couple rap rings in addition to new slings as of three weeks ago
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