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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : El Diablo Wall
By: DCSwish23 When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The mileage is NOT very accurate. It's .65 miles from the flag pole at the cave visitor center (or whatever it's actually called). If you go too far you WILL find a large pull out, but you will NOT be near the right place. From the bottom end of the pull out cut back across the road, go up the fairly obvious trail (maybe 20 ft down the road) and it's only about 2-3 minutes up the hill.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Wall
By: DCSwish23 When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rather than "several" the approach is 2-3 minutes.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hell Cave
By: DCSwish23 When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The directions here are NOT correct. It's .65 miles from the flag pole at the cave visitor center. If you go one mile you WILL find a large pull out, but you will NOT be near the right place. Cut back across the road, from the bottom end of the pull out and it's only about 2-3 minutes up the hill.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Grande Grotta : Zawinul Syndicate (5.13a)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Listed as 7c/7c+ in the book but I found it much harder than Aegialis.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Spartan Wall : ... : Fudoshin (5.13a)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even on a dry day this climb was very soapy and slimy in the pockets. Not very fun climb.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Arhi : French Kiss (5.11d)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Whoever bolted this should be shot" was how my friend described the route.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : The Ghost Kitchen : (19) Remember Wadi Rum (5.11a)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very easy until the crux near the top. Kind of hard to read it, but not bad once you start pulling.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Panorama : Mind Boggle (5.12c)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely did not think the first section was the crux as the book states. It's a cool boulder problem, but has very limited options so just commit and it's not too bad (didn't have to dyno either, just trust a mediocre foot). The crux was the thin middle section, but the top was (I thought) very pumpy too so look for the knee bars.
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Location: International : Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Sikati Cave : Où est l' Équipe (5.12b)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually to the right of Lolita
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Cody Night Rodeo (and the B... : Cowgirls Smuggling Yo-Yo's (5.11b)
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gets my vote for worst route in Ten Sleep so far (of the 91 routes I've tried so far).
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto : Left El Shinto (5.12c)
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thinner and more technical/balance climbing than Center but not as pumpy. Take it how you will.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu : Kielbasa (5.12b)
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much more 12c than 12b, especially compared to other climbs in the area.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : French Cattle Ranch : Matrix Pillar : He Say You Blade Runner (5.10d)
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sharp, dirty, and overall unpleasant route. No point doing it when there are many good routes right next to it on the Back 40
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Gaudi Park : Pigs in Zen (5.10c)
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mediocre at best and definitely harder than the first pitch.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Wiretap (5.10a PG13)
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Using a 70m rope it was quite easy to link pitches and I would especially link the second since it's so short and easy.
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Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Hoback Shield
By: DCSwish23 When: Aug 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After a tough time because of the "two crossings" I finally found it. It's ~10-11 miles from the junction with rt 26.
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Location: ME : Clifton Crags : Fletchers Bluff
By: DCSwish23 When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMPORTANT! You can no longer get to the crag using the fire road given in the description. That road has been blocked off with large rocks.
NEW DIRECTIONS: Take Chick Hill Road (On the left after parks pond and before Chick Hill). When Chick Hill Road (the pavement) curves to the right, take the dirt road on the left. Take the next road on the right (Bradbury ____ Road I believe). From here follow the main road for several miles of, currently washed out, dirt roads. Eventually there will... more >>
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Location: ME : Long Reach Crag
By: DCSwish23 When: Jun 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree about this being mid-coast Maine's most popular crag. I've climbed there several times and it just comes down to the fact that you can keep on tearing off layer after layer. If lots of time was put into cleaning it up it could be decent but for now it's very chossy. Just today I pulled off a crux hold and it almost landed on my belayers head. If you do climb here WEAR A HELMET.
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Location: NH : Artist's Bluff : Handy Cap Direct (5.12)
By: DCSwish23 When: Jun 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a sling on one bolt and it has a sling going to the other bolt. Not really the ideal situation. Some bolts at the top of the actual route part would be great to skip the easy top. Beware of getting the rope snagged in some cracks at the roof.
Overall really fun climb.
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Location: International : Asia : United Arab Emirates : Ras Al Khaimah (RAK) : Roadside Crag : ... : Detritus (5.4)
By: DCSwish23 When: Jan 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: More difficult than Camel Crack despite the easier grade.
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Location: International : Asia : United Arab Emirates : Ras Al Khaimah (RAK) : Roadside Crag : ... : Shiban (5.10a/b)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb. Would not rate it as a 5.8, more like 9/10a and also quite heady. Limited pro on the difficult and exposed moves.
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Location: International : Asia : United Arab Emirates : Ras Al Khaimah (RAK) : Roadside Crag : ... : Camel Crack (5.7)
By: DCSwish23 When: Dec 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good easy climb. Anchors are difficult to spot. There is one set to the left which puts the rope one climb to the left although can still be used to TR Camel Crack. These anchors are before you get to the prominent roof. Second set of anchors if you climb up the face to the right for a variation.
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Location: danny m : Album 1 : Photo
By: DCSwish23 When: Oct 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, what tower is this? It looks sweet.
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