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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : The Traddy Wagon : Hooligan (5.11c)
By: dcohn When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful of loose stuff on the ledges. I accidentally knocked off a 50+ pound block. Fortunately I missed the belayer by a long-shot.
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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Elephantiasis (5.10 PG13)
By: dcohn When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There was a lot of loose stuff, but we didn't break any of it off so I didn't think to give it a bomb. There is also quite a bit of good rock scattered throughout the route- maybe 50% is pretty good. I rated it based on the whole experience, not just rock quality.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Reef of Rocks : Neptune : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: dcohn When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Southpark : Kick in the Nuts (5.11c)
By: dcohn When: Jul 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is right of Scuzzlebutt.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : East Face : Humungous Woosey (5.9 R)
By: dcohn When: May 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How were the run outs?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Reef of Rocks : Neptune : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: dcohn When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Unknown (left of ewephoria) (5.10+)
By: dcohn When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a challenging and fun way up Sheepshead. The route seemed more like 600 feet than 700. Cams up to Camalot #4 and a lot of draws were sufficient for pro. I liked having doubles of 1 and .75. The cracks are mostly parallel sided so I did not place a lot of nuts. Depending on your strengths, the crux of the climb might be on different pitches. For us, the last 2 pitches were just as hard as the third one. However it is hard to compare crack and thin face. We slung a boulder at... more >>
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Water World ?? : Hydroponics (5.11)
By: dcohn When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun pitch. It is nice to have 2 ropes to help with cleaning, especially if you take a fall. The anchors on the .10 to the right can be useful for that. The rail traverse is great with solid rock. There are still some loose holds on near the top and we knocked some loose stuff in the pool. I imagine this route will age well.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Planet Eater (5.11)
By: dcohn When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb when there are no wasps. I have never seen them there before so maybe its seasonal.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Goosehead : Chung King Corner (5.10-)
By: dcohn When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route had some interesting climbing and a few tough moves. I wish I had a #5 camalot for that short OW section.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock-West ... : Ride A Wild Bago (5.10a R)
By: dcohn When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was a little tricky to place gear at crux but it is good if placed correctly. Stepping over the chasm onto the wall to start (instead of starting from the boulder to the left) was pretty easy and reasonably well protected. Definitely not R when done like that.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : It Wall : The Other One (5.11+)
By: dcohn When: Aug 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start a little bit left of the first bolt (at least that is what we did) and make some techy moves up and right. There is a nice jug to rest on near the second or third bolt. After that, it is all steep, sustained and fingery. There are a lot of tough moves on this one.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: dcohn When: Apr 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not unless it is a REALLY long 60 meter rope.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : North Fin : Histoplasmosis (5.11+)
By: dcohn When: Apr 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are chains on top of this climb so making a (gear) anchor is optional.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Weathertop : Under The Weather (5.11)
By: dcohn When: Feb 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is a blast. It was pretty clean when I climbed it. I placed a #2 in the last pocket before turning the roof. Being pumped and turning the roof in the wrong spot, I fell on it. It turned about 60 degrees and I was caught by half a cam. That was a little disconcerting. If you are not too desperate when you make the placement, a slightly better placement is possible. However I think a good placement is possible with a medium-large hex. Next time I will try that for sure.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Forgotten Wall, Control Tow... : Sweetie Don't Bite (5.11-)
By: dcohn When: Jan 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite Joseph's experience, this climb is probably 3 letter grades harder than Virgin's. It is similar climbing but there several very thin cruxes on this climb. One of the cool aspects of the climb is that due to the rock angle, you can basically cling to the rock until you figure out your way through the cruxes.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Vascular Disaster (5.11c PG13)
By: dcohn When: Nov 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strange rating. An 11c with a 12a start.
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Location: AZ : Granite Mountain
By: dcohn When: Nov 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: How is the camping? How is the weather in November and December?
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Waterfall Dome : Malex of Four Thoughts (5.9) : Photo
By: dcohn When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route map. Eventually you can add the other routes that picture. I think the route actually starts a little right of the line you drew. The small roof above the start is marked by a tiny obtuse v-shaped shadow in the picture.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hunchback Pinnacle : Steve's Arete (5.11a) : Photo
By: dcohn When: Oct 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo, but I think that is the smallest moon shot I have ever seen.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Faded Rock : Seventh Sojourn (5.9 R)
By: dcohn When: Oct 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap down the route from the anchors at the top of Wrecking Ball with a 60 M rope. They are to your right as you get to the top of the route. Regardless of if you call this 'R' or not, a fall on top could be bad. The hardest thing for me was route finding because the easiest way up wasn't obvious. In the end, I found a fairly easy way up towards the right side of the face.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rupley Towers : Bop Til You Drop (5.10 R)
By: dcohn When: Oct 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't need a big rack for this one- just a few smaller pieces. Definitely not R. You could probably use a spotter if you are concerned about the first move and there is a nice ledge to make the first clip from. There is some distance between pro at times, but that is usually when the climbing is really easy and ledgy. Good route to do over at the Rupleys.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mean Mistreater Wall : Mean Mistreater (5.10c)
By: dcohn When: Oct 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing route. There are 2 bolts on each pitch. The crux is bolt protected but I don't think it would be that hard to protect using the crack.
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Robber's Roost : Photo
By: dcohn When: Sep 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: That clip looks a little sketchy...
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Wall of the Dancing Dwarves : Cowardly Lion (5.11b)
By: dcohn When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard start, hard finish, everything else isn't too bad.
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