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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : G3 : Vai (5.11b)
By: dbyte When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday. I think there are 13 bolts, not 12. An easy way to skip the bouldery start is to just yard on the 1st 2 draws to get up onto the ledge. From there it's brilliant 5.10+ climbing for a looong way.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Red Dawn (5.11d)
By: dbyte When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is very good. The "runout" @ the top is only ~12 feet from the 6th bolt to the anchor & is 5.9 climbing. It is also preceded by a no-hands rest with the 6th bolt @ your feet. The approach is casual if you don't stay close to the cliff bottom (no bushwhacking required). We found it to be clean & with very good, technical movements - packs a good pump into its length.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Road To Nowhere (5.11a)
By: dbyte When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing this route, I don't understand its 1-star quality rating here & in the guide. High quality limestone, no slickness, interesting moves, & abundant bolts - what's not to like?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: dbyte When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree w/ Kirill's comments above. NOT a good 1st Black Canyon 5.9 if you're new to the grade. That being said, I felt the "climbing w/ consequences" nature of these pitches added to their quality. HUGE props to Ed Webster for his vision & commitment on this spartan line. Apparently I lack both, because I clipped the s@#$ out of that bolt on the 5th pitch!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: dbyte When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route - long, interesting, & reasonable enough to be enjoyable by any ~5.10 climbers. I found the 4th pitch to be slightly harder than the 2nd. WAY more physical @ least.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: dbyte When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding timing & position.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Olympic Wall : I've Got Skills (5.12a)
By: dbyte When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Believe the description. THIN crux just above midway, then little rest afterward. Great line, solid for the grade.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: dbyte When: Jul 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great angle & focus. Also love the colors of the clothing against the muted background.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Cold Cuts (5.10d)
By: dbyte When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gotta agree w/ Mono on this 1. Can't speak for what it may have been "back in the day", but as of now it's not that good.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: dbyte When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Wall : Cryogenics (5.10a)
By: dbyte When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st pitch is mega-classic, probably the best single ropelength I've done since moving to CO. Every placement is bomber & all are set from good stances.
DO THIS ROUTE!
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Photo
By: dbyte When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: DAMN!
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Nessun Dorma (5.10)
By: dbyte When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great addition to Ruckman, especially if warming up on .11c (Choss Family Robinson) isn't your thing. It's also not super slick like Pellet Gun... yet. The moves are varied & interesting & the route is long enough to get the blood flowing w/out the usual Rifle flash pump.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: dbyte When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is 1 of the best sport climbs I've ever done, anywhere, @ any grade. The aesthetic of the line, length, differing styles of the cruxes, topping out & clipping the chains between your feet all combine to form a truly unique climbing experience.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: dbyte When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this Sunday w/ 2 friends. We all agreed that if you can do the other 5.11 pitches then the aid section isn't much harder & is reasonably protected. We felt the moves (3 of them) to be ~11c & protected by 2 purple Black Diamond C3s (size 00), the highest of which was just below our feet when we reached the bolt.
This route is superb & doesn't see nearly the traffic it could/should.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : General Lee (V2)
By: dbyte When: Aug 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by Russ Greenwald back when Blair was just being discovered/explored & most of the classics put up primarily by the UNH crew. Good times...
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : The Bitch (A.K.A. Gran Tori... (V6)
By: dbyte When: Aug 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was originally flashed for the FA by a guy named Brian from Boston. He named it "Gran Torino". "The Bitch" was its name when it was being projected by Joe & Tim.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Fossil Family (5.12a)
By: dbyte When: Jun 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second Dr. Evil's opinion - good movements on generally decent holds, but still somehow deceptively pumpy. Also has fixed draws to simplify getting on it. I imagine cleaning the gear would add a crux.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux
By: dbyte When: Jun 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added some routes to the DB last night. Because most have no names & the numbering of "NoName..." was already in-place I numbered each going from right to left. I hope this makes sense. If anyone has any more info for these &/or wants corrections let me know & I'll make the edits.
Also, 1 of the 3 Innominate climbs (the left-hand 1 I think?) had a large chunk fall off of it in the past few weeks. It contains 1 of the route's bolts. Not sure if it's still climbable, but pr... more >>
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 1 aka Graybeard (5.9)
By: dbyte When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The limestone quality on this pitch is excellent; some of the best in the area. It's just a shame it's not 50' longer (& farther from the highway perhaps).
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux : Lower Wall : NoName 6 aka The Ballerina (5.9)
By: dbyte When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st pitch is called The Ballerina. Where the 2nd pitch is indicated on the beta photo is an unnamed 5.11b.
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