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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Sno-Cone Cave : Pistola (5.12a)
By: dbyte When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill moved some of the bolts during the annual Rifle Cleanup a few weeks ago. As a result, the climbing is now both safer & much more enjoyable.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Bottom Feeder (5.11b)
By: dbyte When: Jul 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this to the 2nd anchor today. This makes for a full 30m pitch & the climbing on the extension is excellent. No drilled pockets or other treachery like Top Feeder, (i.e. the 3rd anchor) just good technical moves & a great position on the Project Wall. Bring your own quickdraws for the upper bit. (5 or 6) I didn't think the extension added anything to the grade but it definitely adds to the quality.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Primer (5.11a)
By: dbyte When: Jul 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The finishing hold, a deep pocket for the right hand that you clip the anchors from, has a bird with 3 eggs in a nest inside of it. Please use the ample holds to either side to avoid scaring or hurting them.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Beer Run (5.13a)
By: dbyte When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI: the 6th bolt pulled out today. No visible damage to the bolt shaft, hanger, or the permadraw. The assumption right now is that the bolt may have been tightened down too much, causing the sleeve to crack. The R&I people have it, so hopefully it'll get replaced ASAP.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Lower Tier : The Silver Surfer (5.11c)
By: dbyte When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best of its grade that I've done in the canyon. An outstanding loooong pitch of sustained small holds & interesting sequences.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : G3 : Vai (5.11b)
By: dbyte When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday. I think there are 13 bolts, not 12. An easy way to skip the bouldery start is to just yard on the 1st 2 draws to get up onto the ledge. From there it's brilliant 5.10+ climbing for a looong way.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Red Dawn (5.11d)
By: dbyte When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is very good. The "runout" @ the top is only ~12 feet from the 6th bolt to the anchor & is 5.9 climbing. It is also preceded by a no-hands rest with the 6th bolt @ your feet. The approach is casual if you don't stay close to the cliff bottom (no bushwhacking required). We found it to be clean & with very good, technical movements - packs a good pump into its length.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : Road To Nowhere (5.11a)
By: dbyte When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing this route, I don't understand its 1-star quality rating here & in the guide. High quality limestone, no slickness, interesting moves, & abundant bolts - what's not to like?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: dbyte When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree w/ Kirill's comments above. NOT a good 1st Black Canyon 5.9 if you're new to the grade. That being said, I felt the "climbing w/ consequences" nature of these pitches added to their quality. HUGE props to Ed Webster for his vision & commitment on this spartan line. Apparently I lack both, because I clipped the s@#$ out of that bolt on the 5th pitch!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: dbyte When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route - long, interesting, & reasonable enough to be enjoyable by any ~5.10 climbers. I found the 4th pitch to be slightly harder than the 2nd. WAY more physical @ least.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: dbyte When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding timing & position.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : I've Got Skills (5.12a)
By: dbyte When: Aug 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Believe the description. THIN crux just above midway, then little rest afterward. Great line, solid for the grade.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Photo
By: dbyte When: Jul 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great angle & focus. Also love the colors of the clothing against the muted background.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Meat Wall : Cold Cuts (5.11a)
By: dbyte When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gotta agree w/ Mono on this 1. Can't speak for what it may have been "back in the day", but as of now it's not that good.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Le Nouveau Riche (5.10b PG13)
By: dbyte When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Cryogenics (5.10a)
By: dbyte When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st pitch is mega-classic, probably the best single ropelength I've done since moving to CO. Every placement is bomber & all are set from good stances.
DO THIS ROUTE!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Photo
By: dbyte When: Jun 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: DAMN!
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Nessun Dorma (5.10)
By: dbyte When: May 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great addition to Ruckman, especially if warming up on .11c (Choss Family Robinson) isn't your thing. It's also not super slick like Pellet Gun... yet. The moves are varied & interesting & the route is long enough to get the blood flowing w/out the usual Rifle flash pump.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: dbyte When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is 1 of the best sport climbs I've ever done, anywhere, @ any grade. The aesthetic of the line, length, differing styles of the cruxes, topping out & clipping the chains between your feet all combine to form a truly unique climbing experience.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Desert Solitaire (5.11a C1)
By: dbyte When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this Sunday w/ 2 friends. We all agreed that if you can do the other 5.11 pitches then the aid section isn't much harder & is reasonably protected. We felt the moves (3 of them) to be ~11c & protected by 2 purple Black Diamond C3s (size 00), the highest of which was just below our feet when we reached the bolt.
This route is superb & doesn't see nearly the traffic it could/should.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : General Lee (V2)
By: dbyte When: Aug 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA by Russ Greenwald back when Blair was just being discovered/explored & most of the classics put up primarily by the UNH crew. Good times...
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Pinnacle & Forgotten Boulde... : Gran Torino (aka The Bitch) (V7)
By: dbyte When: Aug 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was originally flashed for the FA by a guy named Brian from Boston. He named it "Gran Torino". "The Bitch" was its name when it was being projected by Joe & Tim.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Nappy Dugout : Fossil Family (5.12a)
By: dbyte When: Jun 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second Dr. Evil's opinion - good movements on generally decent holds, but still somehow deceptively pumpy. Also has fixed draws to simplify getting on it. I imagine cleaning the gear would add a crux.
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Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Glenwood Canyon : Puoux
By: dbyte When: Jun 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added some routes to the DB last night. Because most have no names & the numbering of "NoName..." was already in-place I numbered each going from right to left. I hope this makes sense. If anyone has any more info for these &/or wants corrections let me know & I'll make the edits.
Also, 1 of the 3 Innominate climbs (the left-hand 1 I think?) had a large chunk fall off of it in the past few weeks. It contains 1 of the route's bolts. Not sure if it's still climbable, but pr... more >>
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