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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Matthes Crest : Anduril (5.10- PG13)
By: dbrdhd When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! A few things to note:
1) First pitch is not run out. My climbing partner and I concluded that you would have to climb out of your way to make the first pitch (R)
2) The crux is more like Yosemite 5.9+
3) The 2nd pitch is more run out at PG 13 / R-
4) If your solid at Yosemite 5.9 the 5.10a hands (on pitch 3) will be a breeze
5) The quality is so/so. Foot chips and knobs were breaking off, so be aware.
Recommended way to start the whole ridge. The climbing will get you stoked and... more >>
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Location: MI : Marquette : The AAA Walls : Cheese and Crackers (5.8-)
By: dbrdhd When: Apr 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: up to a #2 if you want to lead this on gear
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Location: MI : Norwick Ledge : Book of Saturdays (5.8+)
By: dbrdhd When: Apr 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: a #2 would not hurt. i think we placed it twice.
If you do this route, beware for pitch 3. The belay is shit, lots of loose rock, and yes improvise!
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Location: MI : Marquette : Presque Isle : The Pinacle area : The Pinacle (5.10b/c)
By: dbrdhd When: Mar 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be lead on gear. Gear can be hard. I took a small lead fall resulting in 2 pieces popping. Mentally strenuous. Grade increases drastically on lead...
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore...
By: dbrdhd When: Mar 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering how the conditions have been with this warm spell? Also how would you predict the climbing to be in a few weeks?
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob
By: dbrdhd When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the climbing here in Febuary/March doable?
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Location: Brandon Snyder : Michigan Rock : Photo
By: dbrdhd When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried this on lead when i knew little about crack climbing. Its was harder then i thought...a sprained ankle was the result. I still have unfinished business with the climb.
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Location: MI : Marquette : Marquette Mtn : Five Overhangs (5.10a)
By: dbrdhd When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On lead, this climb can have some consequence. If you climb it direct, your first placement is 10-15 feet up with some distance between gear. I have only led this with nuts so this may vary...the top gets more positive.
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Location: MI : Marquette : Glenda's Pile
By: dbrdhd When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alternative Directions:
Drive down count road 553 trowrds Marquette Mountian. Turn left at the additional parking sign. drive up past the "do not enter" sign (only applies for winter use). Drive for 2/3 minutes until you get to a BIG right turn. Turn into pull out. Follow faint trail up hill and to small rock band. Follow cliff down hill.
Approach time: 8-10 minutes
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