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Rock Climbing Photo: Only a few moves with an awkward top out.


Member Since: Nov 30, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 1, 2016
Contact Davis13au

Point Rank: # 319
Total Points: 2,097
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 0
54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Davis13au been climbing?










Contributions


All 447 | Routes 58 | Areas 24 | Photos 222 | Page Improvements | Comments 47 | Posts 8 | Stars 81 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Le Gourmet (5.4)
By: Davis13au When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: There is a loose basketball sized block on the last pitch about 20 feet from the top out on the flake. It's on the interior flake or the flake just to the left of the main right hand wall. From below it looks like a nice big horn on top of the flake. It moved quite easily when I grabbed it. I moved around it and tested it from above and it seems pretty free. If it released it would be bad news for anyone below, on critter crack, Old Man's ledge and countless routes below. I know not many p... more >>


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Rock Till You Drop - Sit St... (V7+ PG13)
By: Davis13au When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: Good job man, congrats!


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Get Your Rocks Off (V5 PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Hi Clint - Glad to see you are pushing the creativity at Juliette. I know the under cling and the small rail your are talking about. I've used Rock Till You Drop to gain that small rail and then go straight up (left of RTYD). I'm certainly no grade expert. Everything feels like v-impossible the first time I try it. I'd say that the upper portion of your route is probably not V6 but that under cling start might earn it. I've messed around with that in the past and it is difficult for sure a... more >>


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 3B : Oakleaf Hydrangea (V3-4 R)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: Nice. I meant to mention this boulder in my last post. I thought you might go for it. Pretty positive your the FA...at least the modern FA.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 3 : Split Decision (V3-4 PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: That awesome JSGreenboy! I knew it would go, I just didn't have the hutzpah to try it alone. I'd say you were pretty much right on track. I'm 6'4" so I end up using the sloper edge a little higher up but that looks like the natural line to the offwidth. Barring some undocumented hardman from the 80s that use to lap this I'd say you are the FA. I put your MP name up there. If you want your real name just let me know.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Brain : Pinky and the Brain (V2) : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Glad to see some activity out at Juliette! Just for technicalities sake...the sit start to Pinky is a bit more to the left. See one of the black and white pics on this page. In this pic your right hand has ventured all the way on to Brain Trust. Pinky goes more where your head is in this pic. There used to be a pine tree behind you that made it difficult to move farther right onto that shelf.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : Right Scoop : Ankle Biter (V4+)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: I doubt there is any FA info out there. My guess is many folks have taken a look at that little arĂȘte or goofed around on it like we did but never put up a route. I'd say you're good to go. Glad to see you're spending some time out there.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: Glad to see you guys are visiting here and Juliette too. The rock quality is decent and there's some good sized rocks. Wet rocks are the biggest problem. If you can watch the weather and time a visit during an extended dry period you might find some routes on some of the untouched sections. It takes a long time for things to dry out back there.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: That's "Falling on a Dirty Mattress" on Boulder #6. I see that the dirty mattress is still there. Been there for a long time. Glad to see some action at Hitchiti.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders
By: Davis13au When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: Finally made my way back to Hitchiti after a long time being away. It's currently pretty wet and most everything except for the #3 boulders have gotten a lot of moss and lichen on them now. The top outs seem a little more grown in too. Super B was still in good shape though. If you go, try to wait for a dry spell and bring a nylon brush.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: My daughter is sitting in the notch where the tree used to be leaning against this boulder. With the tree gone (not sure who did it) there's a possibility of some variations or a new route. Maybe the ones who felled the tree already put something up. Maybe someday someone can put something up starting under the black flake and going up to the notch. The top would go no problem. The bottom is decently blank. Out of my league at least.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: For better or worse someone has removed the tree that has been leaning against this boulder for as long as I've known. Not sure if it was climbers or campers or if it's kosher to cut it down. I thought about it over the years but it was still living. What's done is done and now the entire boulder is clear. The middle of this rock down low is pretty blank but the tree being gone has opened up some variation possibilities into the middle and maybe a high traverse.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Get Your Rocks Off (V5 PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Oct 3, 2013

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Comments: It's a large chunk of rock and there is plenty of room between this one and Rock Till You Drop but there are virtually no options for holds in the "middle". There are a few micro ledges and a small seam for fingertips up higher but that's about it. Once you get to the top jugs appear all over the place.

I can't see another route in there but maybe a "V14" type could see some possibilities.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Gunsight to South Peak (5.3) : Photo
By: Davis13au When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Winds would make it a bit more dicey for sure. The pucker factor is there but it's not unprotected. Walking the ridge is actually the finish of Gunsight to South Peak. You can protect the walk with a belay and place protection along the ridge top at your feet. A fall off the side would be rough as you would definitly swing. It's a really great 5.3. Probably one of the few 5.3s around that's worth going out of your way to do.


Location: GA : Murder Creek
By: Davis13au When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for cleaning up msm0711. I haven't been back to this area in a good while but I haven't found much info on established routes (there aren't many anyway). The area you are asking about has definitly been climbed before. I've talked to at least one party that has, I've seen chalk, and we've goofed around on it but never finished anything. There is a little info (barely) on rocklimbing.com on an area called Boulder Balls and a route called "I'm a Little Tea Pot". There's two pics of som... more >>


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Patriot Wall : Velvet Fist (5.12a)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: Great addition to the Mt Yonah page. Just for clarification Velvet Fist is technically on the Patriot Wall just above White Wall. There is a Patriot Wall area if you'd like to move the route there.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Brain : Frontal Lobe Traverse (V3)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 22, 2013

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Comments: Worked on this a few times on one day. I've done all the sections/moves but have yet to complete it end to end without coming off at or right after the crux.


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face : Balance Climb 2 (5.5)
By: Davis13au When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: BC2 doesn't really go to the top but you can get there. The most direct line is to use Overhang Approach. Just check out the route on MP.com. It's easy climbing but fair warning....there's no real protection. You could also make your way up the Army Cable or traverse over onto BC9 from which you can pick your way to the top on.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders
By: Davis13au When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: Awesome caleb r! Thanks for taking the time to do that. I know it's not climbers leaving trash at the rocks but it's great that climbers care enough to pack it out.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders
By: Davis13au When: Nov 18, 2012

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Comments: My daughter and I took a trash bag with us today because it had gotten pretty bad out at the rocks. To our surprise it had already been completely cleaned up. Big thanks to whoever took the time to pick up out there. It may have been some fellow climbers or perhaps the WMA folks but if you are out there please don't leave trash and pick some up if you see it.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Conn's East (5.6)
By: Davis13au When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Granted, it's not the greatest 5.6 on the planet but it's still a good multi pitch route at the grade. The first pitch starts off a bit awkward with not so great protection for the first few moves and the second pitch is short but lots of fun. It wanders across the ledges but you are climbing more than you are walking ledges. I wouldn't put it in Old Lady's territory. The last pitch is fun down low and then you can't beat the walk across the summit ridge.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 1 : Minimum Height Required (V2)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: The crack is the "Unnamed Crack" listed in this section. A guy named Hank climbed it and managed the top out so it's do-able. I've never been there when the top wasn't soaking wet so I've never tried it. If he's still around he might have the info.


Location: GA : Hitchiti Boulders : Boulder 3 : Little Tree (V2+ PG13)
By: Davis13au When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Great to see some activity at Hitchiti! I wouldn't worry too much about the FA unless someone chimes in with the info. More than likely everything has been tried out there at least once. Not too many people that I know of climb there anymore though. I haven't made it out there yet this year but maybe soon.


Location: GA : Mount Yonah : The Lowers : Four (5.6)
By: Davis13au When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: True. Going straight up the bolts come to an end. If memory serves, I think the original route may have followed bolts up the ramp to the right. I've never climbed it that way and I'm not sure if anyone does. Going straight up it's either a dangerous runout or a TR.


Location: GA : Juliette Boulders : The Throne of God : Rock Till You Drop (V2)
By: Davis13au When: Oct 28, 2011

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Comments: I heard from the FA for this route. He never climbed it roped and never gave it a grade. I've updated the FA info to reflect this. It was cool to hear from someone who had history on Juliette. Seems like the consensus is bringing the grade down and that's cool. I wish a few more people got out there to climb. I'm headed back to Macon this year after two years of climbing in VA and W VA so it will be interesting to see what I think about the route now. It's still the Mid GA classic though.


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