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Location: WY : Pinedale Area : Stonehenge
By: DavidH When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I submitted this whole area a few years ago under Wyoming then Stonehenge, I did not submit the entire Pinedale area since I only submit routes that I have climbed. You can read the post on the webpage and view some of the history of the area. I believe Tristan was around when Sherman put up a lot of these problems.
Admins: This area does not need to be listed twice but the more I think about it Pinedale should be listed as an area.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10)
By: DavidH When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it is worth pointing out that the HUGE flake on the 2nd pitch is very loose. This is the flake just before the large roof turns back to the right. The flake is at least 10'x10'and wobbles like a diving board, I would highly recommend just staying in the corner and avoiding this flake all together. If not linking 2 and 3 will keep the flake from hitting the belayer if the leader should knock it down.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: DavidH When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This past July I found lots of creatures living in the pockets, spiders, bugs, even a bat living in one of the pockets. Nothing prevented us from climbing though. Didn't come across any wasps. I've been to quite a few sport climbing crags in the US and this one blew me away.
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Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Alligator Lounge : Altered State (5.10)
By: DavidH When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very nice line. The bolts are placed perfectly thru what I found to be both cruxes. Warm up on Daddy and jump on it!
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Vulture Walls : Pay Homage (5.12a/b)
By: DavidH When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is such an elegant line, a gem in Castlewood. I am looking for some shameful beta on the start. Do most people deadpoint the good hole from the slick cobble or use the horrible crimp above the cobble to get your feet up? I ask since I have linked everything else on this route except for the bottom and this will be a proud redpoint for me. Shameful request? Yes!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Pueblo Gringos (5.10b/c)
By: DavidH When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason, you are a stud! For a mortal climber with a leading limit at 8-9 you may find this route slightly more difficult than this 8+ might suggest. Stick with the consensus grade.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : "Is Our Children Learning?" (5.9+)
By: DavidH When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The opening jug moved when I cranked off it. If this rips off it will likely hit your belayer, just take note. Pretty good route that will be even better once it cleans up more.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Cave Wall : Gun Control (5.11a R)
By: DavidH When: Aug 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For sure not R, first bolt is well placed given the height of the route. Any 11 climber leading this route will find the bottom very mellow.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Godfather Boulder
By: DavidH When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Jason, my mistake I didn't check the new leigh creek area. Admins, I'm don't know what protocal is here either delete or move info.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon
By: DavidH When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am climbing in this canyon on a weekly basis year round. I am willing to help replace aging anchors and have spoke with the ASCA about this. Problem is I have experience replacing 1/4" bolts but no experience replacing real bolts. I pretty much expect that I'm going to go thru a large learning curve figuring out how to chop and replace real bolts (3/8"). I have a friend who is experienced at this, and we have talked thru the process I just want to do as little damage in replacement as poss... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Variation on a Theme (5.10b R)
By: DavidH When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last time I was in the area this route had button head bolts and needs to be upgraded. Probably not something you would go up to specifically lead but just an FYI in case.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Circus Wall : Circus in the Wind (5.11-)
By: DavidH When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is an absolute CLASSIC! I found the crux to be getting past the last bolt. The pump just kept gaining on me, this is as good as low sport 11 gets.
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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : The Ice Plant
By: DavidH When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's worth mentioning that it's very cool here even in the middle of summer. This past weekend I was climbing in a long sleeve shirt and the rest of the canyon was baking. Great area to tick off a few moderates and get warmed up for some of the classics.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Stiff Little Fingers (5.11c/d)
By: DavidH When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, I was climbing here 3 weeks ago and the bolt was in the same place as it's been for the last 6 years I have been climbing at Turkey Perch.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Purple Toe Nails (5.11c)
By: DavidH When: Feb 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Joe, that is right where I was talking about. I tried going straight up several times and it is harder than I can climb. Just felt kind of out of character to traverse to the right at that point.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Purple Toe Nails (5.11c)
By: DavidH When: Feb 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe, when you got to the ledge with 2 bolts left did you just go straight up or move right then left? Could you tape it for me next time? Great thanks, just kidding.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : Plethora Boulders
By: DavidH When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins please place as area in Bone Park. Thanks.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : Plethora Boulder (right gon...
By: DavidH When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins Please place as area in Bone Park. Thanks.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park : Fossil Boulder
By: DavidH When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins: Please put as area in Bone Park. Thanks.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park
By: DavidH When: Feb 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Admins: Please place the fossil boulder and plethora boulders in this area. Thanks for your help.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: DavidH When: Dec 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love hearing stories about the FA please keep them coming.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: DavidH When: Nov 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not trying to start a flame war or anything but are these bolts really necessary? I remember getting a good large gear anchor on top with the walk off being class 3 at the most. I'm not a local or anything but have climbed at J-Tree a handful of times throughout the years. I'm all for bolts that need to be there but these seem like convenience bolts to me.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : The Raw and the Roasted (5.11c)
By: DavidH When: Oct 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brilliant climbing! This route to me seemed like 3 mini routes. The first being the coral reef arete (5.8) then to the wonderfully crimpy wall to the roof (10b/c), grab a no hands head jam rest or a great kneebar to shake out before the business. Over the roof comes the business culminating with a dynamic move to a good jug just below the anchors. Best route in the 11 range I have done at Shelf!
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Purple Toe Nails (5.11c)
By: DavidH When: Sep 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just wondering if the correct way to do this route is going right over the bulge? Seems like it's out of the way of the bolt line, however, going right over the bulge off the 2 finger pocket seems to be harder than 11b/c. Just curious if moving right over the bulge is correct or considered off route? Stellar climbing regardless.
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Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Morning Sun Wall
By: DavidH When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom, It wasn't a 5.10 shoe. When we were at the wall some climbers came down the trail and it must have been them since the shoe was right on the trail it looks like it just fell out of a pack. It's really pretty useless to me since it's not my size.
On another note, nice job with the morning sun wall, I will periodically go here and lap routes. This was my first attempt on Pointillist since I think last time I was on it the first bolt was missing or something like that. Thanks for the ot... more >>
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