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Member Since: Apr 21, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 12, 2009
Contact David Youkey


Point Rank: # 6,077
Total Points: 5
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
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David Youkey

 
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Contributions


All (26) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (5) | Posts (2) | Stars (11) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: David Youkey When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: Here's another recommendation. Climb Bitty Buttress, then walk uphill a ways, and climb On Ballet on upper Blob Rock. This gives you 6 pitches of nice trad 5.8 and 5.9. I think On Ballet is about the same level of difficulty as Bitty Buttress, and the quality of climbing is also similar. Pitch 2 of On Ballet is a wee bit run out, but if you're comfortable with Bitty Buttress it won't be a problem, since there are also a few wee runouts on BB.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Bitty Buttress (5.8+)
By: David Youkey When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: Climb this route, and then hike over and do "The Young and the Rackless" for an extremely fun day. Three fine pitches, 100 yards of scrambling, and 3 more fine pitches. Bitty Buttress is mentally more challenging, but the moves on Y and R are slightly harder. A great warmup for the season if you have been lounging on the couch for a few months. Or if you have out of town visitors, a great way to introduce them to life in Colorado. One of my favorite days in Boulder Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Left Wing (5.10c)
By: David Youkey When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: I did this very fun route again a few days ago, after a decade-and-a-half hiatus. What's up with the "new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux"? Don't want to start a bolting spewfest, but I don't think this bolt was here in the old days, and I didn't see any reason to clip it; the protection in the crack is fine. It's not that I was in some heroic run-it-out mood; that bolt just isn't particularly well placed. A useless retro-bolt on a historic rou... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: David Youkey When: Jun 26, 2008

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Comments: A nice route, but it's not 5.9; 5.8 at the most, maybe 5.7. Maybe I'm biased because I've been climbing a lot in Eldo recently. The moves past the hanging flake are indeed cool, but be careful. As Jeremy implies, all things are temporary, and some of those flakes seem to be potentially more temporary than, well, other things. Climb lightly, and tell your belayer to stand off to the side.


Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Leviathan Dome : North Face (5.10c R)
By: David Youkey When: Jun 26, 2008

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Comments: I must have climbed this over 20 years ago, with Tom Hilbert. Tom kept saying that climbing was taking up too much of his psychological life. So he would plan these month-long trips to Yosemite to do some horrific big wall projects to "get it out of his system." Yeah, right.

Eric says, "Doing this route at or near your limit would be a great accomplishment." That was me at the time, so I accept your kudos. But the only part I have really vivid memories of was the pitch 8 crux (which at the ... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: whats the worst thing you've done to your partner while climbing?General ClimbingDavid YoukeyJul 12, 2009
found 5.10 slipper, right foot, base of W.Ridge in EldoLost and FoundDavid YoukeyApr 21, 2006

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Hair City 5.9+ R

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Autumn 5.11a

CO : Boulder : ... : Lost Angel

Over the Hill 5.10b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - L of Center Route

Bitty Buttress 5.8+

CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress

Bihedral Arete 5.10a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

Left Side 5.9+

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Wall of Winter Warmth

Tese 5.10

CO : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower

Left Wing 5.10c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Third Buttress

The Twilight Kid 5.11-

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Treasure Wall

Romancing the Stone 5.9

CO : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower

Rhodian Shores 5.10b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Left Wing

5.10c

5.10c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Third Buttress

The Twilight Kid

5.11-

5.10b

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Treasure Wall

Over the Hill

5.10b

5.10b

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - L of Center Route

Left Side

5.9+

5.10a R

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Wall of Winter Warmth

Tese

5.10

5.9+

CO : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower

Hair City

5.9+ R

5.9+ PG13

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : The Bastille - W Face

Bitty Buttress

5.8+

5.9-

CO : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress

Romancing the Stone

5.9

5.8

CO : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower

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