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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: David Stowe When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every time that I am in North Conway to climb it always rains. The past three days were the best weather I have ever had in North Conway for climbing, and in November, go figure. We shared the entire cliff with 3 or 4 parties.
The Book is a superb climb. My partner did both options while seconding(he asked me to lower him back after doing one) He thought that the high traverse was far easier than the low traverse.
Will have to hope for more good weather next time for Recombeast, Last Uni... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: David Stowe When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route yesterday for the first time. What a great climb.
Several people have referenced the step down move as barely 5th class. I assume what they are referring to is the high traverse stepping down the the ledge. I went with the low the traverse and to me that is by far the crux of the pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: David Stowe When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I think that this is a great pitch, I'm not so sure that I would reccomend this as the best climb to break into 5.10 with. The gear at the start is not the greatest and a little tricky. I know of a few people who have messed up their ankles pretty good on the open moves. Once you get going the gear is excellent, but this type of climbing is a little atypical for the Gunks and may really throw some people off, seeming much harder than it actually is.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Ro... (V4)
By: David Stowe When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Using the left side is V2, V3 at most. The V4 version of the Egg goes straight up the front side using the crimpers which is significantly harder than using the left side.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Snooky's Return (5.8)
By: David Stowe When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You miss the traverse, but you get a 200 ft pitch of 5.10 climbing with a great line. The traverse is ok, but nothing to rave about. The other way it is two pitches one being 5.8 and the other being 5.10. Plus doing it in one long pitch makes the roof much less of an issue if the leader happens to fall as you won't be falling on your belayer.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Pink Laurel (5.9)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Packs quite a punch for a 5.8 because it is a solid 5.9.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best line to do this in one pitch is to actually to the first pitch of Mothers Day Party which allows you the climb straight up through the second pitch roof on Birdie Party. Not only is this a better and more direct line it also makes for more consistent climbing as both pitches go at 5.10 as opposed to a 5.8 and 5.10 pitch. Once of the best linkups in the Gunks.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : City Lights (5.8-)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why would you stem the tree. There are good holds. The move through the pod can be done at 5.7 or also done to be made much harder if you climb straight up or to the right. Staying a hair to the left makes this 5.7.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directississima (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Doublissima is a great climb. The crux not being to far off of the ledge really is not a big deal as you can get in 4 or 5 bomber pieces if necessary in the first 15 feet off of the ledge. I would disagree however that this is a good climb for those breaking into the grade. If you are breaking into the grade I don't think that you want continuous sustained climbing where you have to hang in to get gear the whole way. I also think that the traverse off of the crux where you really don... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got on this climb and I loved it but found it to be the hardest 5.10 that I have done in the Gunks. I find Coex, Matinee, Graveyard and few others to be easier than the 2nd pitch on this. I also had the 3.5 camalot with me which makes the move into the off width very safe as it is bomber at the very top of the flare and really eliminates the necessity of getting gear into the under cling crack when you make the standup move. Instead you can peek around the corner and get in a good ca... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: David Stowe When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no point to climb Trusty Rifle without starting from the ground. Start from the ground and do it in one pitch up the GT ledge and it goes at about 5.9. The first part off of the deck has the best and most interesting climbing. It is a rare Gunks opportunity to do some offwidth climbing with a chicken wing move. Fun pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Matinee (5.10d)
By: David Stowe When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overgraded?! I don't think so. I have always found Matinee to be the hardest 5.10 in the Gunks. Gives me much more trouble than Coex, Graveyard, Winter as well as few 5.11's. The first pitch can certainly become familiar and purely technical if you know where all the holds are, but the second pitch is BURLY! No way that it is overgraded. A good hard climb, but certainly not soft.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There really is no need for any fixed gear on that route as all of the belays are easily protectable. If you are on this route you are going to the top and are not going to rap the route, therefore there is no need for bolts, pins, tat or anything else. There are plenty of bolts and other fixed gear in many other places in Red Rocks, it doesn't hurt to keep some routes clean where ever possible.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directissima (5.9)
By: David Stowe When: Oct 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The variation that he was referring to is not Doubleissima but a variation to Directissima. After coming around the nose on the first pitch of Dirrectissima you can go straight up a crack to the mini ledge on the nose instead of angling right to the bigger ledge before the 5.9 traverse. Doublissima is a completely separate line to the right.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Never Never Land (5.10a)
By: David Stowe When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think that you mean two pitons and one bolt. There has never been more than one bolt. It is not harder than 10a. If you tried going straight up from the bolt to the piton at the crux section then you will have found it harder. If you angled slightly left after the bolt then you will find it a bit easier as the holds are better. Fun climb, especially if you do the direct finish and don't move right up the easy groove.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Double Crack (5.8)
By: David Stowe When: Aug 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are worried about having your second hit the deck down low due to rope stretch, then have the second squat a few times before climbing and take in the slack. If you do that, you don't have to worry about them decking.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Falled on Account of Strain (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route brings a smile to my face every time I do it. Just about as much fun as you can have on a one pitch route. Do it as one pitch, not at all necessary to break it up into two. After you get your gear in, in the middle of the huge overhangs, take a look around and soak in the great exposure. Don't be intimidated by the size of the overhang. Just imagine how good the holds have to be for a roof of that size to be 10b.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Frustration Syndrome (5.10c)
By: David Stowe When: Aug 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had not done this route in few years. We did the direct start yesterday and it protects just fine with a blue alien. Despite the pro it is still a committing move just off of the deck. I have done this route many times over the years and it always seems hard. Many other routes get considerably easier when repeating, but not this one. Fun and challenging moves with good gear.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : City Streets (5.10+)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way this is 10+ and has always been rated 10-. It is certainly harder if you are short. This is one of the fastest easiest 5.10 ticks in the Gunks. A total one move wonder. Fun and quick.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : Shitface (5.10b/c R)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to disagree with the last poster. There is enough gear to make this climb more than safe. The face below the crux may seem a bit runout, however it is easy to protect with small wires. If you don't have anything like brassies then you may be in for a nice runout, with them it totally safe. The part above the crux is only runout if you don't look around for gear. There is a very good green alien/blue tcu placement after the crux. The climbing after the crux is also significantly eas... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Woman of Mountain Dreams (5.11a/b)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am looking to climb Woman of Mountain Dreams this November. We did Inti last year, so we are familiar with the approach, however there seems to be some disagreement among people here as to the best way down. Some people suggest the walk off down through First Creek Canyon, while others say the the Oak Creek method is better. Should I also assume that rapping Dogma is a bad idea? I have to assume that given the length of the route and the time of the year at least some of our descent will b... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Comedy In Three Acts (5.11)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a great technical little climb. The small overhang at the bottom is probably 10a and fun move with the undercling. The crux is actually "well" protected with the yellow HB Brassie(it is good as I whipped on it on my onsight attempt). The crux involves a very technical sequence crip, to gaston to layback. Be comfortable going over very small gear(there is bomber gear below the HB , although you don't want to rely on the big bomber gear as you would likely hit the little ledge... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: David Stowe When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think that it is a mistake.
The name of the area is "Rumney Rocks"
and the day use is climbing.
I've been climbing there for 15 years and never found the sign to be odd or wrong.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Texas Hold 'Em (5.11c)
By: David Stowe When: May 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you rap this route and need to fix the tag line to the 2nd to last belay, does that mean if you are climbing with double you should fix one of them to that belay and have the second follow the last pitch on only one rope?
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