Contributed Photos |
| Photo |
Caption |
Location |
Great Image |
Date |
| Second pitch of the Book. | NH : Cathedral Ledge : ... : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a) | | Nov 10, 2009 |
| Todd getting some good exposure on the final moves of the route. | NV : Red Rock : ... : Inti Watana (5.10+) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Todd styling over the bulge on the last pitch. | NV : Red Rock : ... : Inti Watana (5.10+) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Looking out from the Cave. | NV : Red Rock : ... : Inti Watana (5.10+) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Glenn at the crux | NV : Red Rock : ... : Inti Watana (5.10+) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Sunset on the descent | NV : Red Rock : ... : Hot Flash (5.8) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Photo | NV : Red Rock : ... : Hot Flash (5.8) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Sunrise on the approach | NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Getting into the crux | NY : The Gunks : ... : Graveyard Shift (5.10d PG13) | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Rapping off one of the routes. | NV : Red Rock : ... : Hall of Fame | | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Leading off of the belay. 4th pitch. | NV : Red Rock : ... : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) | 1 person | Aug 6, 2008 |
| Sunrise on the approach to Mt. Wilson, 11/07. | NV : Red Rock | 3 people | Aug 6, 2008 |
Contributed Comments |
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: David Stowe When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every time that I am in North Conway to climb it always rains. The past three days were the best weather I have ever had in North Conway for climbing, and in November, go figure. We shared the entire cliff with 3 or 4 parties.
The Book is a superb climb. My partner did both options while seconding(he asked me to lower him back after doing one) He thought that the high traverse was far easier than the low traverse.
Will have to hope for more good weather next time for Recombeast, Last Uni... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: David Stowe When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route yesterday for the first time. What a great climb.
Several people have referenced the step down move as barely 5th class. I assume what they are referring to is the high traverse stepping down the the ledge. I went with the low the traverse and to me that is by far the crux of the pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Simple Suff (5.10a/b)
By: David Stowe When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I think that this is a great pitch, I'm not so sure that I would reccomend this as the best climb to break into 5.10 with. The gear at the start is not the greatest and a little tricky. I know of a few people who have messed up their ankles pretty good on the open moves. Once you get going the gear is excellent, but this type of climbing is a little atypical for the Gunks and may really throw some people off, seeming much harder than it actually is.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Trapps Bouldering : Keyhole Cliff area : The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Ro... (V4)
By: David Stowe When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Using the left side is V2, V3 at most. The V4 version of the Egg goes straight up the front side using the crimpers which is significantly harder than using the left side.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Snooky's Return (5.8)
By: David Stowe When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You miss the traverse, but you get a 200 ft pitch of 5.10 climbing with a great line. The traverse is ok, but nothing to rave about. The other way it is two pitches one being 5.8 and the other being 5.10. Plus doing it in one long pitch makes the roof much less of an issue if the leader happens to fall as you won't be falling on your belayer.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Pink Laurel (5.9)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Packs quite a punch for a 5.8 because it is a solid 5.9.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Birdie Party (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best line to do this in one pitch is to actually to the first pitch of Mothers Day Party which allows you the climb straight up through the second pitch roof on Birdie Party. Not only is this a better and more direct line it also makes for more consistent climbing as both pitches go at 5.10 as opposed to a 5.8 and 5.10 pitch. Once of the best linkups in the Gunks.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : City Lights (5.8-)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why would you stem the tree. There are good holds. The move through the pod can be done at 5.7 or also done to be made much harder if you climb straight up or to the right. Staying a hair to the left makes this 5.7.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Directississima (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Doublissima is a great climb. The crux not being to far off of the ledge really is not a big deal as you can get in 4 or 5 bomber pieces if necessary in the first 15 feet off of the ledge. I would disagree however that this is a good climb for those breaking into the grade. If you are breaking into the grade I don't think that you want continuous sustained climbing where you have to hang in to get gear the whole way. I also think that the traverse off of the crux where you really don... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Erect Direction (5.10c)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got on this climb and I loved it but found it to be the hardest 5.10 that I have done in the Gunks. I find Coex, Matinee, Graveyard and few others to be easier than the 2nd pitch on this. I also had the 3.5 camalot with me which makes the move into the off width very safe as it is bomber at the very top of the flare and really eliminates the necessity of getting gear into the under cling crack when you make the standup move. Instead you can peek around the corner and get in a good ca... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Trusty Rifle (5.7)
By: David Stowe When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no point to climb Trusty Rifle without starting from the ground. Start from the ground and do it in one pitch up the GT ledge and it goes at about 5.9. The first part off of the deck has the best and most interesting climbing. It is a rare Gunks opportunity to do some offwidth climbing with a chicken wing move. Fun pitch.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Matinee (5.10d)
By: David Stowe When: Jan 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overgraded?! I don't think so. I have always found Matinee to be the hardest 5.10 in the Gunks. Gives me much more trouble than Coex, Graveyard, Winter as well as few 5.11's. The first pitch can certainly become familiar and purely technical if you know where all the holds are, but the second pitch is BURLY! No way that it is overgraded. A good hard climb, but certainly not soft.
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