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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Lost Hawk : Scooby Doobie (5.10-)
By: David Lammers When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chains (supplied by Andrew) were added to the quick-links at the anchor.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock : Isle of You (5.9)
By: David Lammers When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be descended in 2 stages with a single 60-meter rope by utilizing the anchors for Jizzneyland. Just be sure the Jizzneyland route is not being climbed when you do this.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Isle of You (Ewe) : Trad Rock : Jizzneyland (5.10c)
By: David Lammers When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is high on some thin holds. I recommend either stick-clipping the first bolt or climbing up the left ramp to place the first draw to protect those first moves off the ground.
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Location: AZ : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Unknown (Another Jug Haul b... (5.9)
By: David Lammers When: Apr 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is easy to identify because there is a dead-end bolt (past #2 I think). The route direction was later changed to move to the climber's right after the second bolt.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : Earth Angel (5.9)
By: David Lammers When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route and safely bolted. Single pitch and can be lowered to the ground on a 60 meter rope.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: David Lammers When: Jan 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 4: When the leader reaches a short gully with some sticks and dirt in it they are at the last bolt and should continue straight up to the anchors. There is a route to the right of Peacemaker that comes very near and could tempt the leader to follow that line of bolts.
Pitch 6-7: Very easy to link up these two pitches with a 60 meter. There are many routes up here and I think I may have finished on a different route. But they are all 5.10.
Very fun route and the bolts protected it well.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Green Slabs : Josh and Dave's Route (5.7)
By: David Lammers When: Jan 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this straight up the buttress and did not find any good placements above the crack. The pro I did place was purely psychological. Be prepared to run out the entire top of this route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : OH Crack (5.11b)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is actually across the canyon on Hairpin Rock and not on Left Hand Wall.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : ???? (5.8+)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the bottom direct (like the description states) with a #2 BD cam and a #1 Metolious tricam. It is a fun climb and this path gave it a good flow.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Turn (Lefthand Wall... : Little Meteor Shower (5.9+)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the most right of these 3 newer routes first encountered on the wall. The holds are sharp. Beware of loose rock on these 3 climbs.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Ruins : Medicine Bag (5.10)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route to the right of Techno Savage and left of Black Feather. Well protected with bolts.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ewephoria (5.7)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a new route to the left of Ewephoria (name is unknown). If you keep heading to the climber's left on the second pitch it is possible to continue following the bolts to the other route (over a small runout). To stay on Ewephoria angle straight up the rock from the 4th bolt and the belay station will be at the water stain. If you end up on this other route it is probably a 5.10 mixed and if you had trouble leading pitch one you are in for a difficult climb. Personally, I found the fir... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rivendale : Elderon (5.9)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The low worthless bolt is the identifier of this route. Crux is getting to the 2nd bolt.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: David Lammers When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Place a cam when you reach the crack and then step right of the crack and place 1 high cam to protect the start of the crack. The rest of the climb is fun and easy to protect. Enjoy :)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Rappel Rock : Black Quacker (5.7)
By: David Lammers When: Nov 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hike from the top of the rock down to the base is steep and brushy. I highly recommend leaving packs at the top of the rock, bring only the gear for the climb, and wear sneakers/sandals.
Pitch 1 - went up Bender Axen, move belay to tree and go down into canyon through the tree.
Pitch 2 - the 1 bolt belay in notch at top of 2nd pitch was tough to find. When the climbing gets steep look up to the right to see the notch. It is not along the line you are following up the canyon. I did not us... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Tall Wall
By: David Lammers When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Due to the Southern Aspect this area can get warm in spring and fall. Probably best in winter. The trees around this area were all burned in the fire but are still standing as snags. Best to avoid the area during a strong wind event because these dead trees can fall down. Also, bring a tarp for some extra shade.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Tall Wall : Smokin Stealth (5.10)
By: David Lammers When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The routes here are all new. As they see increased traffic the small weak flakes on these new routes naturally pull off. I on-sited this route on lead without falling. However, my partner had considerably more trouble ascending the route and some holds broke off under his weight. I then tried to lead it again later in the day and was unable to climb to the 3rd bolt on lead. I think with the holds it was 5.10 but now it is 5.??.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Barnum Rock : Beatle Bay Lee (5.9)
By: David Lammers When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: New chains located lower on the route enable lowering with considerably less rope drag. The old chains higher up are still present. The bolts in the beginning easy section are difficult to see from the ground but they are present and protect the entire route.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Ridgeline : Ridgeback (5.5)
By: David Lammers When: Jul 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good beginner route and fun to climb. Place 1 or 2 cams before first bolt. The rest is well bolted. Belay from the summit. I had to rap clean it b/c my beginner got freaked out. Lot of friction when retrieving the rope but with some muscle it pulled down clean.
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