Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10/30/04
Route in great shape now. Had the route to ourselves on a Saturday! We found the "crux" pitch to be easier than the second pitch, fairly low angled and solid placements.
P1 - WI2 (soloed)P2 - WI3+, steep moves between ledges, difficult to protect well.P3 - steep snow (soloed) P4 - "crux" WI3, more sustained than previous pitches, but [relatively] low angled with solid placements and good pro. Was expecting much harder.
Gear: 6-8 screws of various lengths + small nuts/RPs for the bela... more >>
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: OOps.
That was supposed to be Rocky Mountain National Park, not Rifle!!!
|
Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: David Conlin When: Oct 31, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: All Mixed Up - 10/30/04
In, fat. P1 - WI2, P2 - WI3+, P3 - WI3.
Little/no snow on route, bomber sticks, good ice screw placements.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10/20/04 - Route in great shape; mostly ice, not much mixed (except about one move at the crux, behind the chockstone). Approach is heinous right now. Expect to post-hole through deep soft snow up the lambs slide. This was exhausting and slow, but the route was worth it. Floatation would help.
Current conditions:P1 - WI3P2 - WI2, steep snowP3 - WI4, M3-4We rapped off after the crux pitch (did not go to broadway) which was quick with 3 double rope (50 m) rappels.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Right Chimney (probably not... (WI3+ M5-)
By: David Conlin When: Jul 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photos! Julian, you must have been the party that passed us. I would say the left-hand start goes at about AI3-, M4. I am pretty inexperienced with this whole M-climbing biz, though, so not too familiar with ratings. The crux of this pitch is definitely the M and not the AI. Earlier in the day/week it might have held more ice, as it appears from the photo posted by Rick. By the time I was on it, one section was very mixed and difficult for me.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Right Chimney (probably not... (WI3+ M5-)
By: David Conlin When: Jul 11, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: In as of 7/11/04. 3 parties on route today. More ice than mixed, but the ice was of variable quality. Melting fast!!!! We found 4 pitches of climbing. Steepening snow fields (soloed) lead to two choices: the left line is steeper and more direct, while a line to the right is hidden behind a ridgeline, but I am guessing it is significantly easier, as we were passed by another party who opted for the right line. We took the left line, Dark Star Direct.
P1. Climb the narrow gully system which cons... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Sorcerer (5.8+)
By: David Conlin When: May 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "difficult to protect" pitch is really not that difficult to protect. However, you must take placements when you can, because in between good placements there are no placement options.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: David Conlin When: May 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: PS: This is a good choice in the morning in the summer. We were in the shade nearly the whole day.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: David Conlin When: May 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did Grand Giraffe's first three pitches to Body Tremors to Smoke and Mirrors. This combo makes for a stellar day.
P1. 5.9 - There is a parallel crack just to the left of the upper part of this crack. I stayed in the crack on the right, but using the other crack might make it a bit easier. I really enjoyed this pitch.
P2. 5.6 (5.4 according to Rossiter) - this must've been the toughest 5.4 I've ever done. More like 5.6.
P3. 5.10a - my partner, Mike Flanagan, led this with a #3 & @POUN... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Body Tremors (5.8+ PG13)
By: David Conlin When: May 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: GRAND GIRAFFE - BODY TREMORS - SMOKE & MIRRORS = 3 STARS. Body tremors itself - 2 stars.5.8s in my opinion: Good pro with long runouts between placements.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Smoke & Mirrors (5.10a)
By: David Conlin When: May 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a nice way to finish Grand Giraffe, rather than the standard finish (which I've never done). I didn't think this felt any harder than 10a onsight. Pretty sustained, good pro where you need it. Nice climb.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : C'est La Vie (5.11b)
By: David Conlin When: May 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the first pitch was the hardest 5.9 I've climbed in eldo or elsewhere. Sustained, tricky moves in the crux layback, and add to that infrequent and somewhat tricky gear.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: David Conlin When: Feb 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route!
We linked pitches 2&3, and 4&5, making it a nice 3-pitch routes with challenges on all pitches.
I thought P1 was hard for 5.8, but I always seem to think that at the West Ridge. I had a harder time with the start of P2 than with P4, although I did not lead P4. P2 was reminiscent of Break on Through, although with bigger hand and foot holds.
Would have been nice to have a larger cam, or two, on P3 to protect the flake (I left my 3.5 at the belay below). I ended up slinging som... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Break on Through (5.10b)
By: David Conlin When: Nov 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think this was a sandbag at all.
P1 was some of the steepest, funnest 5.8 around. No need for anything larger than 3 Camalot.
P2 was tricky. Getting off of the ledge was the hardest part. Look for the opposing hold out right on the roof. Visually this hold is obvious, but it didn't seem useful until I tried about 5 other starting positions, none of which got me anywhere. By pushing on this with the right hand, you can begin to stem up the corner. I placed 2 stoppers and a microcam (blu... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Cruisin' for Burgers (5.10c)
By: David Conlin When: Nov 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is Ivan talking about the same climb I did? Doesn't sound familiar at all (I did it 2 days ago, so its not like my memory has slipped).
My partner, Mike Flanagan, led this. There is a decent rest at the roof, from where one can get in a medium cam under the roof and some rps in the corner. Once you leave this stance, there is about 10 feet of thin, difficult climbing before you essentially top out and cruise to the anchors. From my (limited) experience, the grade seemed right on. Nice pitch but... more >>
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : Credibility Gap (5.9+)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this several times during 1997-1999. Never pulled off a single piece of rock. But my friend says his partner pulled off a sizeable boulder (est. 3-400 lbs.), almost killing his sister. Watch out!
|
Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Lower Finger Direct (5.10+ X)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I, too, did not think this was as hard as 10+. Maybe 10-. Fun route to toprope.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : March of Dimes (5.10)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led the first two pitches of Werk Supp to the crux of MoD. This combo is stellar.
P2 of Werk Supp can be combined with this crux, although that may have been my downfall, as I was pumped by the time I got to the crux.
Tricky feet and crimpy hands up high. Used small nuts and Yellow and Green aliens (equiv. to BD 0.3, 0.2 I think), the latter of which held multiple lead falls before I figured out the sequence. My partner, Mike Flanagan flashed it though. The belay atop is weird. Sling a root... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this route and finished with March of Dimes yesterday. All 3 pitches are stellar, in my opinion.
P1: sustained 8+, very enjoyable, a little runout after the first piece. Bring plenty of small-medium cams (i.e. 0.2-0.75 Camalot equivs.) and larger nuts. Definitely belay from below P2, rather than at the bolt anchor.
P2: I loved this pitch and felt more secure on it than on P1. I don't know what the + is doing in the rating. Maybe it is hand-size dependent, but I didn't find this particula... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd agree with the previous comment. Maybe some comments don't explicitly specify this, but it IS the mantle at the top that is the crux, not the crack below (although strenuous, which saps energy for the crux). It is during this mantle that I fell on my onsight attempt. The jam at the back of the ledge SUCKS.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Fat City Crack (5.10c)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I only give this 2 stars, largely because of the first pitch, which is an annoyance that must be overcome to get to the good stuff. We used the standard finish, although next time maybe will take High Plains Drifter.
I found the pro somewhat tricky on P1.
My partner, Mike Flanagan, led the crux pitch. Neither of us had any problem on the 10a finger crack, although pro is a little sketchy (thin RPs). We both used chimney technique to get up to the roof, which was a little more problematic with ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to agree with many of the comments previously submitted.
1. I like this better than Yellow Spur, especially when linking P1&P2, and moving to Rewritten after P3.
2. The crux pitch is STELLAR. I've done it several times, always direct through the offwidth, which isn't so bad (9+). The dihedral above is sustained 5.9 with awesome stems. Above is not runout, unless you make it, which you should if you are comfortable on 5.4 and managed to get through the 5.9 sections.
3. P3 is a one-move ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic!
Don't miss the direct finish--well protected, great exposure. I'd go with 10b, although the single-move nature makes this debatable.
Suggested link-up: DOUBLE SPUR. One person leads "block" of entire Yellow Spur, rap descent, second then leads "block" of entire Green Spur. Double your pleasure, double classic, ... double Spur.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ed-In response to your comment in response to mine, you are right. I am suggesting that someone climbing this be confident on such terrain at such grade and experienced in placing pro. Otherwise it would not be safe.
I guess I slightly misspoke when I said you MUST NOT fall. I definitely wouldn't have wanted to fall. I trusted most pieces of gear I placed and with so much rope out, the fall factor would be low. If one was to fall during one of the runouts, the benefit of placing gear is that yo... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: David Conlin When: Oct 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route, but not very sustained and a lot of the climbing felt like scrambling over blocky sections. That is why I didn't give it 3 stars, but only 2.
The crux is only 1-2 moves and even for shorter folks, only 9-. I didn't stem between the 2 corners, but instead put my left foot and left hand in the left corner/crack and my rights on the face. Plenty of face holds and excellent friction make this fairly easy.
Nuts really do the trick here. We linked the climb into about 4 pitche... more >>
|
RSS Feed
