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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Fallout (5.9)
By: David Bayendor When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got to climb this pitch with Vedauwoo legend Craig Luebben during a clinic he was running down here. This is a favorite of his that he feels doesn't get enough traffic. It has a little of everything, a face climb start, good hand and finger cracks, foot jams, hand jams, off width and a chimney if you are so inclined.
This is a strenuous 5.9, but a great training route on top rope, with some great problem solving.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Southwest Friction (5.4)
By: David Bayendor When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Using the bolts at the top of this climb you can also top rope some excellent face climbing just to the right of this route that is higher angle. There is no designated route description, but it pushes the grade to 5.6 just for variation and to add to the challenge.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: David Bayendor When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an excellent route, though oddly named. The crack takes small cams and nuts well, but it is easy to runout and a fall would be a problem. It gets pretty strenuous at the top. Offers a little of everything: friction, crack, bolts and pro placement. HIghly recommended if you are a working your way to a solid 5.9 lead.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Captain Nemo (5.10d)
By: David Bayendor When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the 1st pitch of this route with Craig Luebben, inventor of the Big Bro and Vedauwoo climbing hardman. Spent three days in a Vedauwoo clinic with Craig. This is a great pitch to work hand and fist jams on. I recommend taping, the insides of these cracks are pretty rough.
At this point the second pitch is a beyond me, but definitely worth coming back for.
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Location: AZ : Granite Dells/Watson Lake D... : Watson Lake
By: David Bayendor When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just got back from three days of climbing in this area.
There are no access issues at all at this time, and this area is beautiful, fun climbing.
All the fixed hardware is in great condition. With the exception of one day during the week we had the place to ourselves the entire time.
As is typical this time of year, afternoon thunderstorms can shorten your day, but one can easily get in four hours of climbing without getting up at the crack of dawn.
Guidebooks:
Coverage is light ... more >>
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mr. Wind (5.7)
By: David Bayendor When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux seems to be just getting off the ground with a stem start.
All of the routes in this area favor those with good footwork for friction/slabs. This was a great lesson for me, a more traditional crack climber.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : The Serpent (5.8)
By: David Bayendor When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very hard direct start. If you make the start slightly right it is a great friction climb as you move onto the main line. Past the ledge and continuing up the excellent finger crack. Six bolts, solid 5.8.
To clarify, this route is right of Mr. Wind, so the previous poster is correct. While I was there four of us did this and all felt it to be easier than Mr. Wind (5.7).
Once I led this and set it up as a top rope, I had my girlfriend work the friction start on the left side to get her us... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Tenacious (5.9+)
By: David Bayendor When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are 5' 5", like me, then the tiny crimps you need to get the moves are about five inches out of reach (unless you have a serious ape index).
Also, the holds are very greasy, and could probably do with some clean up. Because of this, I agree with other comments that this feels a lot harder than 5.9, maybe 5.10.
I climbed up the off width to the left, basically as a free-solo instead.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Interface aka Slab Left (5.8)
By: David Bayendor When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a tough but fair 5.8 sport route. Bolts and anchors are in good condition.
Because the route is basalt, the holds feel a bit greasy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: David Bayendor When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Update on fixed pro. Climbed this today and only found a nut wedged in about halfway up the lieback/crux of 2nd pitch. My partner told me it was fixed as I followed up, but when I tugged on it, it definitely moved. I just motored past and left it in place. I noticed no other pro on this route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : West Overhang (5.7)
By: David Bayendor When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can add some symmetry to this route by changing up the second pitch. Once we cleared the 5.7 roof with the fixed pin, we led up and right and did the 5.8 roof at the end of Lemmings. Highly recommended.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7) : Photo
By: David Bayendor When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the Vegas Strip in the distance, middle of the photo.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Peaches (5.5)
By: David Bayendor When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Walkoff is a little exposed, but careful route finding renders it manageable.
Anchor on tree is quite solid. Bring some extra shoulder length slings to extend the pro you place as you approach the roof.
By staying left and working the crack through the roof, it's a solid 5.9.
Staying under the roof keeps it a good 5.7.
Going right onto the face makes this a 5.5.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: David Bayendor When: Mar 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on 2/22/09.
The ice was pretty hooked out, but it was very climbable. My guess is that with the snow in the park in the last week (2/28), and the hot daytime weather / cold nights, it might be in better condition.
Also, not visible in the picture I posted was the good mixed climbing on the left side. We had some concerns about the overhanging chandelier of ice on the upper right side below the rappel slings, we stayed away from it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : ... : Photo
By: David Bayendor When: Mar 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hidden Falls, February 22, 2009.
Taken from the right side of the ice.
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