Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Serpentine (5.9-)
By: david baker When: May 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the first pitch use a green or yellow alien to protect. Also, the decent is done by traversing left 75 feet. A short exposed down climb leads to a rap station directly across from Piasono Pinnacle. Two raps will take you near the bottom of Bye Gully. From here there is a short down climb to the base of the Weeping Wall.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : The Underworld
By: david baker When: Feb 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor bolts for the Under World have all been smashed. You can build a gear anchor but you will have to belay from the top.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Suzie's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: david baker When: Jan 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first and third bolt on Suzies have been damaged to the point of being unusable. The inconsiderate person who did this left the flattend bolts in the rock. It is to bad some A-whole finds the need to damage a great route and leave the rock with unsitely damaged bolts. Becareful there are other routes at Mission Gorge where there has been bolt damage.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Risky Business (5.10a)
By: david baker When: Jan 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some inconsiderate person chopped the first bolt on this climb so be careful! Several other climbs at Mission Gorge have bolt damage as well. Why would someone find the need to damage some classic routes and potentially endanger people?
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Southwest Passage (5.8)
By: david baker When: Nov 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 3.5 or 4 fits nicely under the protruding flake. Makes the climb leadable for anybody. This is a fun route.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Risky Business (5.10a)
By: david baker When: Oct 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the two bolt climb directly to the left of the dihedral. This is a face climb there is a thin finger crack part way up the climb. The crack will take small nuts(and you will probably need them). Continue up to second bolt and rap rings at top of climb. Without small nuts this climb is R rated
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Pass Time (5.9)
By: david baker When: May 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pass time is an excellent crack climb. Start at Capt hook as you climb into the chimney traverse right onto hand crack continue up. At top of crack( groove) Traverse right again onto another crack. Continue up 8 feet and traverse right yet again into another crack that will become a finger crack climb to top rap station at top of climb.
|
Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance (5.10b)
By: david baker When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Use a 41/2 on lie back at top of first pitch.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Crack of Dust (5.8)
By: david baker When: Apr 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: When you get to the base of the main wall go left for 150 feet. You will see the obvious crack to the left of the Owl. The finish on this climb is slick as only Mission Gorge can be. Place an red alien near top of crack for finish. Climb is short and very protectable however, there is a ledge about a third of the way up that you could easily hit if you fall.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Jaws Boulder Area : Girl's Climb (5.10c/d)
By: david baker When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is very leadable. Be careful the crux move is not very protectable so make sure you can do it. For anchor use bolt plus gear in crack at back of rock.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Lord of the Rings (5.10c)
By: david baker When: Feb 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is some of the best rock in Mission Gorge. The crux is rocking on to your left foot at the transition from the finger crack onto the face. This climb is located 10 feet to the left of Art the Pissant a.k.a. unknown number 3. See my comments on this climb for directions. Lord of the rings is also shown in some guide books as (unknown # 4).
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Shelob's Lair (5.10b)
By: david baker When: Feb 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To reach this climb before Shadowfax go right on faint climbers trail. You will see roof and climb 40 feet up the trail. This climb starts out straight forward. However, above the roof the protection is marginal and the fall potential is high. Anchor is best at the back of finish ledge 6 feet beyond end of climb. Climb finishes with fun offwidth. This is a good Mission Gorge climb if you are comfortable at the grade.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Art of the Pissant (5.10a)
By: david baker When: Feb 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: To reach this climb go up trail toward Middle Earth go past Shadowfax and Easy Rider straight up hill. Trail forks head left toward Karmic Relief. Continue up climbers trail for 100 yards. You will see three bolts on face for this climb(also known as unknown #3). Crux comes at start of climb reach high for unsecure holds on ledge. After stiff mantle straight forward climbing on frictiony orange granite.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: david baker When: Feb 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb be careful traversing from the pillar to the crack on the main wall. The rock is slippery and the move is unsecure. After getting into the crack the pro is good on the rest of the climb. The crack becomes an offwidth at the top. Look for good holds just out of sight. To get to this climb from the main wall go past the Ramp toward limbo area. When you get to Vawters dihedral go left on climbers trail toward top of mountain. 60 feet up trail you will find Apostrophe. This is a quality ... more >>
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Sam I Am (5.8)
By: david baker When: Feb 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb place # 1 in flake after 2nd bolt. This climb is one of the best climbs at the grade in Mission Gorge. To find this climb head up Middle Earth trail past Shadow fax. Continue straight up hill 100 feet. At second canyon start left for 50 feet uphill. Climb is obvious four bolt climb on right wall. Shinny new bolts and rap anchor at top of climb.
|
Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Gandalf (5.7)
By: david baker When: Feb 7, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great intro to crack climbing. The crux comes in the first ten feet. Place a number 3 cam and go for it. This climb is a great first lead good bolts for anchor at top
|
RSS Feed
