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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Robbin' the Hood (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Combining Robbin' the Hood with the upper section of Prince of Thieves creates a four star 5.11. Bring a shoulder runner for the first bolt at the break to delete rope drag.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken Trout showed us his one rope rappel today. A 70 meter rope is essential, but gets you down no worries. When you are at the top of the wall looking out to the east, rap off the anchor on the right, the one with the long chains. Head down the ramp as you normally would, but stop at the first anchors you come to, about 25 meters down. The second rap goes climber's left off the ramp. After about 20 meters, it's a short rap, you will find an anchor on a small slab. (Ken told us he scrounged... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Coffee Achievers (5.10+)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitches 2,3, & 4 rate 3 to 4 stars for quality; they are superlative. Pitch 1 is forgettable, and the last pitch is wet ( we combined pitches 5 & 6), but interesting with positive holds and reasonable pro. If you are not put off by conditions such as this, or even seek them out for the adventure, you will enjoy this route, as did I.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : ... : Photo
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Eric. There's a good chance I'll be in Tucson this fall. I'll give you a call, and maybe we can hook up for some climbing. DT
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yesterday, we used the descent described in the comments section of the Red Wall. It is a much better option than The Camel. The exposed downclimb at the top may be fifth class, but no harder than 5.2.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone added a new bolt at the start. Gear is now unnecessary.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not (5.11c)
By: David A. Turner When: May 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: V2 or 3 at the bottom, 11a at the top.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zot 2 Rewritten 2 Rebuffat = 4 star moderate.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bearcat Goes to Hollywood (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascentionist, and current guide book author, upgraded this climb to 12a. I'll take it. One of those 11d/12a kind of climbs. Best slab pitch in Boulder County.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bird poop in the middle, the loose jug after the crux, and the contrived runout thereafter on uncleaned lichenous holds to the anchor will certainly keep the crowds away from a climb that otherwise has very good movement.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Arms Bazaar (5.12a R)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Low in its grade.
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Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best multi-pitch sport route within 1 hour of Boulder (not counting the approach)? Easily. A better multi-pitch sport route in Colorado? Hard to imagine.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: David A. Turner When: May 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the first pitch was worthy of two stars. However, the second pitch is one of the five best slab routes in the Canyon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Sponge Bath (5.9+)
By: David A. Turner When: May 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also an option to put gear in the handcrack, but climb to its right a bit, then jog back left at the overhang. Nice combination of gear and bolts. Sweet bit of steep face climbing at the top.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Corn on the Cob (5.10)
By: David A. Turner When: May 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice addition to Cob. I'm 5'10" and no dyno required. Looking at the photo, I'm sure I used a different sequence. I appreciated that where good gear was available, no bolts were placed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you carry a blue and green Alien, you can plug one of them and have great pro on Respite, rather than the long sling on the 3rd bolt of Jolt issue.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very tranquil location. There is a faint trail from Upper Animal that keeps the bushwack factor low.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo : Living with the Apes (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: While not essential, some may find a 1" to 2" cam below the first bolt to be helpful. Nice climbing with no raptor issues that I noticed, at least in the fall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, the crux second pitch is about the same degree of difficulty as other classic Eldo face routes at this grade, eg. Wide Country. Well protected.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 10, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sublime. In the same category as E. Face of the 3rd & E. Face/N. Ridge of the First, but more clandestine.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : What If You're Not? (5.7)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor on this route has been replaced with modern lowering bolts, and has been moved so there is no longer any rope drag over the edge.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Center Left (V4)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd have to agree on the whole height thing here. At 5'9" this problem is doable for me more times than not; whereas the right problem is doable much fewer times.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : Beer Belly aka Beached Whal... (V6)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way the sit start is only a little harder than the stand start, even with the knee bar. Although, next time I get on it I'm bringing a knee pad. One day last fall there was some dude who did the sit start into a traverse that took him all the way around Beer Barrel to the heinous problem on the NE corner. He blew off the very last move.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Bonzo (5.10)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climbing, great gear (except for the easier start). Nice variety to do Bonzo's jamming, with the face climbing of Chains of Command.
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