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Working out the beta for the FA of House of the Ri...


Member Since: Aug 9, 2007
Last Visit: May 4, 2012
Contact David Trippett


Point Rank: # 767
Total Points: 846
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
54 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Trippett been climbing?










Contributions


All 313 | Routes 23 | Areas 13 | Photos 79 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 36 | Stars 87 | Ratings 49
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : ... : Los Museos/Abrojos e Cente... (5.11 PG13)
By: David Trippett When: Jan 5, 2012

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Comments: This is a variation that breaks out left partway up the first pitch, through an easy but run-out slab and heads through the overhang. Takes a direct line to the base of the Lost Fingers corner.


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island
By: David Trippett When: Nov 10, 2011

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Comments: More new routes on the Horns...

way to go!

rockandice.com/news/1701-rumbl...


Location: David Trippett : Various : Photo
By: David Trippett When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Check out this thread...

mountainproject.com/v/custom-t...


Location: International : South America : Peru : Huaraz : Hatun Machay : ... : House of the Rising Sun (5.12b)
By: David Trippett When: Aug 2, 2011

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Comments: Would like to hear from anyone who has tried this about their thoughts on the grade. We felt it was a hard on-sight, but would get easier as the beta was worked out. Most of us on the FA thought ~12b, no harder.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Big Daddy Overhang (5.12b)
By: David Trippett When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Don't listen to Scott, he hikes 5.13 and then takes all the women home with him. A true stone cold crusher. ; )


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : West Buttress of the Horn (5.11- R)
By: David Trippett When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: Trip report from CascadeClimbers:

cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...


Location: International : South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Quebrada Paron : ... : The Original Route (5.10d R)
By: David Trippett When: Jun 17, 2011

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Comments: The climbing can be very run out after the Repisa de las Flores

Lots of bottoming, flared cracks above pitch 10. The climbing is easier, but can get hard quickly if you find yourself off route. There are pitons and fixed gear everywhere, so really try and focus on following the fastest and easiest terrain as opposed to getting suckered up some pitch because of fixed gear.

Rack-
a selection of medium/small stoppers and single cams from green alien to #4 Camalot will get you thro... more >>


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island
By: David Trippett When: Jun 14, 2011

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Comments: MORE ACTION ON THE DRAGONS HORNS:

alpinist.com/doc/web11s/newswi...

alpinist.com/doc/web09f/newswi...


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Piramidal
By: David Trippett When: May 14, 2011

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Comments: To the right of the start of "Los Bolsoneros"(a great route, but hard), there is a single pitch 11d called "Wackford Squeers". Hands and fingers through a steep bulge...4 stars!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2)
By: David Trippett When: Mar 2, 2011

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Comments: Some beta for the pitch after Long Ledge...

Unless you're pretty tall the free climbing may feel a bit desperate.

If you poke about a bit you'll see where the old blade or bugaboo used to be right before the thin seam/crack slams shut....right before the free climbing starts at the top of the pitch.

I was able to fiddle in an INVERTED medium sized cam-hook into this placement and then high-step onto it on a shortened sling and I could just reach the greasy, polished, sloper/side pull and the... more >>


Location: International : South America : Chile : Torres del Brujo
By: David Trippett When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Links to topos and articles about Torres del Brujo:

Ragni Lecco, "The Lecco Spiders": ragnilecco.com/page.lasso?cl=9...

Guardia Civil al Spantik:

guardiacivil.org/prensa/activi...

Mexican Expidition: montanismo.org.mx/articulos.ph...

An Article from "Desnivel": desnivel.com/deportes/escalada...

A TR from a new route on a tower ... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Big Daddy Overhang (5.12b)
By: David Trippett When: May 12, 2009

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Comments: To me, Big Daddy feels like a real step up from the 12a's on the wall...gray or yellow alien (or similar sized piece) just around the roof in the blind lock and much finger sized gear after in the crack above.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Ocean Negro (5.12)
By: David Trippett When: May 4, 2009

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Comments: There are some loose pieces just after the traverse into the crack from the belay, be sure to let any climbers below to keep an eye out. This pitch is a little sandy, but really good. Like a harder version of Anunaki. Long slings at the start keep drag to a minimum. [third pitch]


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Fuel Injected Hardbody (5.12- PG13)
By: David Trippett When: Apr 30, 2009

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Comments: Sucks up small cams. Very safe.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Torre Principal
By: David Trippett When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: Hey! Aren't you that same guy that tried to climb Sinestro Total and ended up on the East face? That was a crazy story!

It really depends on your familiarity with the area, Dave. Many locals and people who know their way around go from the saddle. If you're not sure where you're going, it maybe better to use the lake.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Hunters Moon (5.11d)
By: David Trippett When: Sep 9, 2008

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Comments: Bolted anchors were added to both pitches as of this year. The tree at the top of pitch 1 is now gone. The old protection bolt on Pitch 1 has ben replaced by a shiny new one.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Roman Chimneys (5.11d)
By: David Trippett When: Aug 9, 2008

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Comments: The .11d pitch on the Chimneys stays wet for a LONG time. Plan on finding it dry only after prolonged dry spells of up to two weeks or more.

A great variation of the "Grand Wall" is Apron Strings>Mercy Me>Left Side of the Split Pillar>Roman Chimneys. Double cams from .5 Camalot to #2 and one #3 & 4. RPs or micro nuts are useful for the start of the Left Side. A selection of small cams to blue alien. Some draws for Perry's.


Location: International : Asia : Malaysia : Tioman Island : Waking Dream (5.9 A2)
By: David Trippett When: Apr 29, 2008

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Comments: Waking Dream was recently freed in it's entirety by Dave Sharratt. Nice work!

sharrattphoto.com/gallery.asp?...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : St. Vitus' Dance (5.9)
By: David Trippett When: Apr 9, 2008

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Comments: St Vitus "Extra" (St Vitus Direct+St Vitus+Karen's Math+Memorial Crack) makes for 6 pitches of varied and enjoyable 5.9 climbing. And Now you can continue all the way up to the top of the Chief on Sonnie Trotter's 5.9 variation to the Squamish Buttress; "The Butt Face" for a full day of 5.9 goodness.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : High Plains Drifter (5.11c)
By: David Trippett When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: For Borderline> Angels Crest > High Plains

doubles from .5 to #2 camalot,a single of #3 and #4, double green and yellow aliens, one blue alien(or whatever if you don't like aliens) and some medium and small stoppers. 8 runners. lots of water. most will need an an early start

Borderline is technical and can be slow climbing. Bolts on the face pitches and a bolted chimney. The .11c crux takes small nuts and cams. Watch for drag on the last pitch.

fr... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : High Plains Drifter (5.11c)
By: David Trippett When: Mar 9, 2008

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Comments: Borderline>Angels Crest>High Plains makes for a great day out.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: David Trippett When: Dec 11, 2007

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Comments: Alex Shainman is ONE BAD HOMBRE!! ; )


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Caboose (5.10a)
By: David Trippett When: Dec 1, 2007

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Comments: Caboose is a solid 10b, relative to the rest of Squamish anyway, and if you are a low 5.10 leader expect a battle. There are a lot of "tough" 10b's in Squamish: Caboose, Hand Jive, Apron Strings, The Split Pillar, Split Beaver, S&Ms Delight and Arrowroot are but a few. Anyone wishing to move up the lower 10's would do well to hop on these routes. Regardless of the outcome, much will be learned.

There are access issues at some of these routes, so please check locally before you climb them.


Location: International : South America : Brazil : Rio de Janeiro-Urca
By: David Trippett When: Nov 28, 2007

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Comments: There is a Cable Car that arrives at the summit of the Po de Acar and climbers may descend to the mid station using this cable car free of charge!! After 7pm the ride to the bottom is free as well.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Nightmare Rock
By: David Trippett When: Nov 28, 2007

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Comments: Nightmare is arguably the best single crag for hard cracks in Squamish. Perspective, Sentry Box, Claim Jumper, Hypertension and Big Daddy are but a few....


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