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Member Since: Mar 29, 2006
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact David Stowe


Point Rank: # 3,309
Total Points: 143
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Stowe been climbing?










Contributions


All 132 | Routes | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 39 | Stars | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) (5.3)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Aemerick congrats on your first lead. You can indeed very easily get to the bolted rap station at the top of Arrow if you climb Easy V to the top of the cliff. Two raps with a single and one rap with doubles.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: Bolted anchors were not there when the route went in and they are there for rapeling the route not as an anchor from which to belay. The first pitch comes up onto the GT ledge left of where the notch in the overhang is. Many climbers set a gear anchor in the right facing corner by Limelight or right in the middle of the face to belay from. From any of those spots the notch is up and right. The best way to do Arrow is to forgo the belay all together and run it in to one long rope stretching p... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Mr. P's Wurst (5.8)
By: David Stowe When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: Could not disagree more with Worth on this one. Mr. P's is a good climb. You can also do it one pitch from the ground for about 200 feet of continuous climbing. It has several interesting sections with some moves to unlock. There are also a number of fun steep spots with good exposure. The climbing has good variety as well. Both of its neighbors are quite good, but this route is not squeezed in or contrived and takes a completely independent line from Madame G's and Le Teton. This would ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+) : Photo (Copy)
By: David Stowe When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Benjamin I really think that it is what you are used to The overhang on Modern Times is definitely not 5.10. As a matter of perspective I do much of my climbing at the Gunks. On a trip a few years back to Red Rocks I found the 11.b roof pitch on Levitation to be easier than the 5.9 chimneys on Epinephrine. Those Red Rock grades are accurate, I just have much more experience and better technique on overhangs. I had waited a while when I first started leading to do Modern Time's, being intimi... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Back to the Future (AKA JAP... (5.10 R)
By: David Stowe When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Ross congratulations on your first route description.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: Jul 1, 2013

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Comments: Some people just get scared and there is nothing wrong with that. That is about as easy and mellow spot that you will find on any climb. There are ledges and large holds everywhere and the grade at that point is 5.3 and really fun.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directississima (5.10b)
By: David Stowe When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Jeff I agree fantastic climb. Not sure what you were looking at for gear off of the ledge, but it really does not get any more G on a climb than it is right there. You can get in bomber nuts, cams and tricams in multiple places essentially from the ledge until you start to traverse right. People may have some trouble seeing it all or placing it all due the pumpy nature of the climbing there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: May 18, 2013

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Comments: Great perspective.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: David Stowe When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I'm not sure what gear you were using, but for me every placement on the first pitch is rock solid gear. There are no iffy placements on this pitch and there is no specialty gear needed. For some reason this pitch got an R in the old Swain guide. This pitch is PG and only because of the crux, which requires that you make a move or two with your feet over the gear. Other than that you are dong beautiful aesthetic face moves on good gear.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ent Line (5.10d)
By: David Stowe When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: I think the R may come more from the tree and even the ledge then any lack of gear. There is a good portion of the climb if you come off there is a good chance of hitting the tree.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : The Sting (5.11d)
By: David Stowe When: Nov 10, 2012

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Comments: Bad advice about not placing gear at the start unless you are sure that you will hit that move. Blue alien is bomber and I have seen it catch more than one person there. With that good gear you will not deck unless you have a really bad belay.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: David Stowe When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Have not led it in a few years but that second pin is unnecessary as it takes gear, both aliens and small nuts.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: My bad then. That is the draw back of the internet. Hard to tell if someone is joking, serious, sarcastic, etc.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: I am all for safety and pointing out serious issues, but people are also way over critical and get all worked up over some things that while not 100% picture perfect are fine.

In the case here people are calling out ancient biners which are two years old at most. The condition of a sling as really sketchy when you are looking at a snap shot of someone on TR, not on lead, and you don't know the condition of the piece on lead. Having said all that I still think that that the sling would catch a l... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moby Dick (5.8)
By: David Stowe When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Really fun pitch. Not something that I would recommend as a finish to Andrew as it is significantly harder than that climb, but a very nice pitch to do when you are on GT over that way. I don't ever remember a pin in the the notch, but there are two lower down. That notch can be really tricky. 5.8 if done right, but can feel a bit harder if you're off a bit.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: David Stowe When: May 30, 2012

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Comments: MF Direct is definitely a fun and worthwhile climb and easily setup on TR after doing the regular route if you're not up to leading it, as it is a bit run out and pumpy to place gear. That said, definitely not 10+ or 11-, maybe 10b at most. Nowhere near as hard as Coex or Graveyard.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: May 24, 2012

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Comments: Since Dennis took this picture I assume that he led the pitch. The climb is not at or near his limit. Not sure how you deduce that the biner is going to snap in half. The climbing also eases on that pitch the higher you go. You guys are really missing the point. Look at the excellent color coordination between shoes, shirt, rope and biners as well as the excellent composition.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: David Stowe When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: I think that the point is that all the repetitive climbing isn't all that interesting after a while. While the wall is amazing and is an incredible piece of stone the climbs surrounding POD are all far more interesting with much more variety. Most are also not bolt ladders and offer more trad climbing. All of the hanging belays are also a bit of a pain. While a very nice route to do one time it really does not compare to most of its neighbors. I will gladly repeat most of the climb on the V... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: David Stowe When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Looks like a tripled up runner that just wasn't pulled tight. It would be fine with any downward pressure on the biner. Nothing really scary about it.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Proctor Silex (5.9+)
By: David Stowe When: May 9, 2012

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Comments: Really good pitch! It has a bit of everything, especially if you stay in the corner at the start and not cheat out onto the face to make it much easier. You start with a tough 5.9 corner with small gear. Then a fun runout 5.7/5/8 face. A well protected stout 5.9 overhang at mid height and then some more fun runout 5.7 before the nice steep finish. What's not to like?

Definitely the 5.9 lead for the solid 5.10 leader. I would not recommend this route to those starting out 5.9.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Power Failure (5.10)
By: David Stowe When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Really fun route. The first pitch 5.8 is nothing special, but the two 5.10 pitches after that are great. I found the hardest part to be on the second pitch in the middle where the crack peters out and you are climbing a fairly blank white face with very few holds but are protected by bolts. I did't really see the need for anything bigger than a #2 Camalot. The top of pitch 3 where the crack gets a little wider is pretty easy and you can also get small gear there inside the large crack ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Spring Break (5.11+)
By: David Stowe When: May 7, 2012

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Comments: Great route. Did this on TR after leading Mister Misters. Great rock, fun challenging moves and sustained till the end although the top is easier than the first bit of climbing but by then your are a bit tired. Will definitely have to give this one a go on lead next time I am in Red Rocks as the gear looked very good, just sustained to place. Not sure what roofs are referred to in the description as this is essentially a steep face route that follows a thin crack. Being a gunks climber I al... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: David Stowe When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: This route made for a really fun day. The approach isn't bad at all, mostly flat walk across the desert until you reach the wash at the mouth of the canyon. The 500 feet or so of 3rd and 4th class slabs leading up to the climb is both fun and a good warm up. We linked the first 3 pitches in two to get to the easy ground linking the lower and upper portions of the route. We found all of the pitches to be fun. Not sure what some of the comments about bad rock or only a few worthwhile pitches ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: David Stowe When: May 2, 2012

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Comments: Really fun route with a good variety. Every pitch is different,but all are fun and extremely well protected. The second pitch crux is a little burly while the fourth pitch crux is a crimp move. Definitely happy that we got on this route on our last day in Red Rocks. A nice way to end a week of climbing. The descent is fast and easy, just be careful up on that white sloping ledge when moving to the rap as there is a bunch of loose rocks and a slip would not be good.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: David Stowe When: Apr 26, 2012

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Comments: Climbed first pitch today before getting rained off before starting the second. It a really good pitch the whole way. Felt like allot of 5.7 and the overhang was pretty easy 5.9 at most. Really fun but not 5.10. Great gear the whole way.


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