Comments: DO THIS ROUTE! It is a Great Route, (10c is a sandbag, but then many of the grades here are quite varied). Very cool climbing! Next time I will bring a few cams, (.5 - 3) 4 bolts in 100', my heart was pumping!:-)
Comments: The 5th and 7th bolts on Muscle Beach have been replaced with SS Fixe glue ins. Thanks to the RCA retro bolting initiative. Please support the Rumney Climbers Association, www.climbrumney.com/
5th bolt on Muscle Beach has been replaced
The old 5th bolt from Muscle Beach at Waimea, Rumney, NH
new Fixe SS 7th bolt, (last bolt) on Muscle Beach, Waimea, Rumney, NH
Comments: Amazingly cool face climb! At 5'7", I found the crux move very reachy! Had to stuff my feet up my ass, stand tall and long reach from a sloper under cling! I'd give the route 5.11c if you are short, perhaps 11b if you are 5.9 or taller.
Comments: I did climb the 2nd pitch to this route. Its pretty much as Mark describes, Climb up and slightly right from the 1st anchor, then move straight up as the RGC traverses to the right. There is a block(s) on a ledge that you can climb up onto, ( I need to add a bolt here) to gain a crack\corner system that takes you up to the 3rd anchor of "The crack of the world". Finish the 3rd pitch of "The crack of the world".
Comments: Jeff, I think this is one of the coolest routes I've put up in a long, long,.. well possibly ever! It may only be like 12c. It certainly seems harder than any of the 12b's I've done recently, what ever you decide. All I can say is that it is REALLY FUN!
Comments: Hung draws on the route today. I will remove them at the end of the fall season. I also did a bit of cleaning on the "shark's fin" after the roof. Most of the route is pretty clean with the exception of the very bottom, which is like 5.ez so you should be ok there for now. I will return and clean the bottom proper soon. No holds have broken on the route. Have fun!
Comments: Awesome to hear you got on it Aaron! Thanks for letting us know that the holds are intact. Out of the many routes that I put up in Rumney, this one remains one of my favorites! I too have always thought that it felt comparable to Butt Bongo. I will be putting fixed draws on it for a the remainder of the fall, (soon) and will assess and fully re-clean the route as needed. Thank again for you input!
Comments: Do you mean that a hold has broken, Otey? I can't remember any holds on the route that could break. Very solid rock and not flake edges on the route. I will check it out ASAP, been wanting to check the anchors and review the bolts anyhow.
Comments: I led this route on trad gear, ground up, following the angling thin crack, (part of the reason for the name), to a large block with a crack behind it, (the block has since be removed as it was sketchy loose)I then climbed straight up the face to the pine tree. I bolted the route after several people requested.
Comments: Cozened Stone,5.9 80+' (Chloe's route, probably one of the best 9's I've climbed @ Rumney, very tricky and deceptive, as the name implies)& Double D's, 5.12b (?, "I really have no idea") have been climbed and are both open. Still cleaning on them though, (if it ever stops F#%king raining). both really good! Double D's hasn't seen a 2nd ascent that I know of.
Comments: The credit for this job should go to Smitty, as he did the brunt of the job! I only pitched off the final loose block from the starting ledge, (its still on the ground at the base of the route), and popped in the new bolt. I will try to get the block moved out of the way as soon as I can. The route also needs a little cleaning at the base. The grade has only increased slightly if any, so perhaps 9+, climb it and see what you think.