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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,425
Total Points: 227
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Optimistic been climbing?










Contributions


All 687 | Routes 14 | Areas 4 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 614 | Stars 29 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (1)

TR, 1 pitch, 50'

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Nov 4, 2014

Epiclepsy

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X (1)

TR, 2 pitches, 110'

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Jul 24, 2014

Shitty Mitty

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Jun 2, 2014

Yenta

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (2)

TR, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

May 22, 2014

100 Duros

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 10'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

La Mosca

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Alzheimer

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Baba

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Coordina Coordinator

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Lord of the Rings

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 (1)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Paramuero

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Perello

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Jardiners sense fronteres

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Herbofilia

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

San Sebastian Tutla

North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico

Mar 12, 2012

Puig St Marti

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 24, 2011

Main Wall

Europe : Spain : ... : La Creveta

Apr 17, 2011

La Creveta

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Nearing the top of 100 Duros.  Photo by Bob Olshan...

Nearing the top of 100 Duros. Photo by Bob Olshansky.

Europe : Spain : ... : 100 Duros (5.7)

Apr 24, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Unknown (5.10+)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Phoebe is about 20-25 feet right of Ken's, about 6 feet left of Boston, and has a bolt about 12 feet up. "Unknown" is not Phoebe.

Ken's as you know diagonals left to right as it ascends. If you drop a rope from the top of the cliff where Ken's tops out, allowing the rope to drop straight down, it'll be directly over this route and quite a ways from Phoebe, which I have done several times and which we had completed just before setting Ken's and "discovering" this route.

I kind of wanted to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ha, yes Dana, you know I do carry a passel of small cams! But I must not have tried hard enough in the right spot...that crack seemed too shallow. I'll go back and have another go at it, some good gear there would have completely changed the game. Thanks, David.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Steep Hikin' (5.9)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Bit of an epic on this one for me!
- First pitch I found to be fairly easy but quite run out, and the climbing very much not worth the risk. I'll use the Red Pillar start next time.
- Williams gives p2 5.9G, but I wasn't able to get gear within about 10 feet of the crux move and so decided to back off after trying to climb through 6 or 7 times. The fall looked pretty safe, but longer than I liked. Have to come back for a rematch on that one!
- Wish I'd seen kswissto's comments on the 3rd pitc... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A little (actually a lot of) gear beta:
-there are a couple of funny little pods in the crack toward the bottom of the first pitch. I found smallish hybrid mastercams handy there, and a pink or black tricam would probably work too. I mention this because either way this is not gear that everyone carries all the time...

-there is a nice red/yellow camalot placement just as you're pulling through the little p1 overlap into the base of the left-facing corner. You have to stop in the middle of ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : High Plains Drifter (5.10 R)
By: Optimistic When: May 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!

We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came abou... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: May 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'd done P1 about 5 times over the years but had never gone higher.

P2 is pleasant although dead easy (place 1 piece).

P3 is really quite cool. I have to say that I think 5.6 is pretty fair, but I did notice (BETA ALERT) that it was a little tricky to get good gear where you wanted it, because the good gear is actually right in the middle of the crux. I chose to pull on through and then was like, "hmm, now I'm kind of looking at a ledge fall, not quite what I'd had in mind," and so place... more >>


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