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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,476
Total Points: 214
Last Year: 34
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 624 | Routes 13 | Areas 4 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 556 | Stars 28 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Epiclepsy

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X (1)

TR, 2 pitches, 110'

NY : The Gunks : ... : d. Strictly - Shockley's

Jul 24, 2014

Shitty Mitty

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'

NY : The Gunks : ... : a. The Uberfall

Jun 2, 2014

Yenta

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (1)

TR, 1 pitch, 90'

NY : The Gunks : ... : g. V3 - Middle Earth

May 22, 2014

100 Duros

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 10'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

La Mosca

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Alzheimer

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Baba

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Coordina Coordinator

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Lord of the Rings

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 (1)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Paramuero

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Perello

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Jardiners sense fronteres

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Herbofilia

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

San Sebastian Tutla

North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico

Mar 12, 2012

Puig St Marti

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 24, 2011

Main Wall

Europe : Spain : ... : La Creveta

Apr 17, 2011

La Creveta

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Nearing the top of 100 Duros.  Photo by Bob Olshansky.

Nearing the top of 100 Duros. Photo by Bob Olshansky.

Europe : Spain : ... : 100 Duros (5.7)

Apr 24, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : The Last Will Be First (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A little (actually a lot of) gear beta:
-there are a couple of funny little pods in the crack toward the bottom of the first pitch. I found smallish hybrid mastercams handy there, and a pink or black tricam would probably work too. I mention this because either way this is not gear that everyone carries all the time...

-there is a nice red/yellow camalot placement just as you're pulling through the little p1 overlap into the base of the left-facing corner. You have to stop in the middle of ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Millbrook : High Plains Drifter (5.10 R)
By: Optimistic When: May 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: We really enjoyed what we think is this route, and what we did seemed to line up pretty well with the picture in the new Williams guide, but does not line up at all with what is written above. Who knows? Millbrook is an adventure!

We started (intentionally) on White Rose, probably about 20' right of the huge right-facing corner that houses White Rose and White Corner and slowly trending left toward the corner over little overhangs with some occasional loose rock and bird poop. Crux came abou... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Middle Earth (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: May 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'd done P1 about 5 times over the years but had never gone higher.

P2 is pleasant although dead easy (place 1 piece).

P3 is really quite cool. I have to say that I think 5.6 is pretty fair, but I did notice (BETA ALERT) that it was a little tricky to get good gear where you wanted it, because the good gear is actually right in the middle of the crux. I chose to pull on through and then was like, "hmm, now I'm kind of looking at a ledge fall, not quite what I'd had in mind," and so place... more >>


Location: Training : Hangboard Workouts for Clim...
By: Optimistic When: Apr 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: 1) Probably obvious, but an easy bouldering session at the gym would be perhaps the ideal warmup.
2) Beastmaker offers a superb and free hangboard timer app for smartphones. With it you can program in a number of reps, hang time and rest time for each rep on the hangboard, and then a rest interval between sets. Plus annoying beeping (mutable if you want) to keep the pressure on!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Moondance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We really liked this one. Good gear is abundant throughout, this would be a nice early trad lead for someone (although not their first lead, I'd say).

I wouldn't agree that there is a lot of loose rock. However, there most certainly are a couple of very good-sized blocks right above the ledge with the tree. These are obvious and easy to tiptoe around. The rest of the rock is perfect...although I'll admit there's a decent amount of lichen on both this route and Sundance. That's the price of... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really pleasant route, with a lot of nice climbing. The climbing I'd say is slightly more challenging and interesting than Moondance, and the gear, while fine, is a little more spaced in spots than on Moondance, so if you're a budding leader, you might want to warm up on Moondance first.

We avoided the tree and diagonaled right from the initial face onto the face above the ledge. The tree would add some drag if you clipped it.

Also, you may want a couple of smallish wires (not micr... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Monty's original beta for this route is excellent...so excellent in fact that at times I felt like we were cheating a little bit by having it on the route! But that didn't stop us from looking at it.

Anyway, I would add a few really minor points
-We used Bechtel for the slabs approach. I think that inexperienced climbers would be pretty freaked to go that way without a rope. Not hard, but you're in the no-fall zone for a long time. If you or your second doesn't solo 5.2 with a pack, you may... more >>


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