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Member Since: Aug 29, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,604
Total Points: 180
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (450) | Routes (10) | Areas (4) | Photos (1) | Comments (15) | Posts (393) | Stars (24) | Ratings (3)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

100 Duros

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 10'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

La Mosca

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Alzheimer

5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Puig St Marti

Apr 24, 2011

Baba

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Coordina Coordinator

5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Lord of the Rings

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 (1)

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

Europe : Spain : ... : Main Wall

Apr 17, 2011

Paramuero

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 45'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Perello

5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Jardiners sense fronteres

5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Herbofilia

5.6 4c 14 V S 4b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

Europe : Spain : ... : Cala Magraner

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

San Sebastian Tutla

North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico

Mar 12, 2012

Puig St Marti

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 24, 2011

Main Wall

Europe : Spain : ... : La Creveta

Apr 17, 2011

La Creveta

Europe : Spain : Mallorca

Apr 17, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Nearing the top of 100 Duros.  Photo by Bob Olshansky.

Nearing the top of 100 Duros. Photo by Bob Olshansky.

Europe : Spain : ... : 100 Duros (5.7)

Apr 24, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Moondance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We really liked this one. Good gear is abundant throughout, this would be a nice early trad lead for someone (although not their first lead, I'd say).

I wouldn't agree that there is a lot of loose rock. However, there most certainly are a couple of very good-sized blocks right above the ledge with the tree. These are obvious and easy to tiptoe around. The rest of the rock is perfect...although I'll admit there's a decent amount of lichen on both this route and Sundance. That's the price of... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Sundance (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really pleasant route, with a lot of nice climbing. The climbing I'd say is slightly more challenging and interesting than Moondance, and the gear, while fine, is a little more spaced in spots than on Moondance, so if you're a budding leader, you might want to warm up on Moondance first.

We avoided the tree and diagonaled right from the initial face onto the face above the ledge. The tree would add some drag if you clipped it.

Also, you may want a couple of smallish wires (not micr... more >>


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Nov 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Monty's original beta for this route is excellent...so excellent in fact that at times I felt like we were cheating a little bit by having it on the route! But that didn't stop us from looking at it.

Anyway, I would add a few really minor points
-We used Bechtel for the slabs approach. I think that inexperienced climbers would be pretty freaked to go that way without a rope. Not hard, but you're in the no-fall zone for a long time. If you or your second doesn't solo 5.2 with a pack, you may... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Crash and Burn (5.9+ R)
By: Optimistic When: Mar 26, 2012

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Comments: Regarding the posting above: it would actually be quite a shame to jeopardize access to the REST of the climbs in the Gunks, all of which are on private land and open to climbers thanks to the climber-friendly attitude of the Preserve, so that you can briefly amuse yourself on this route (which does indeed sound totally awesome). I'm bummed to miss out on these routes, too, but I'd be a whole lot more bummed if the rest of my home crags were also closed due to some stunt at Skytop.

Please do... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Murphy Creek : Frogger (5.7)
By: Optimistic When: Oct 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I second the above comment, nothing bigger than a #3 is needed to lead it, and you could probably figure out an anchor with 2's and 3's as well. Pretty nice route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Boltway (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Aug 13, 2011

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Comments: Anyone been up the 10a finish mentioned in Reid? If so, is it as generously bolted as the rest of the route?


Location: International : Europe : Spain : Mallorca : S'estret : ... : Mario moreno (5.8)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: Super polished, and to me not really that fun as a result. I guess the OP is right that this is probably 5.8, but the polish makes it feel like you're going to pop the whole time.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wisecrack (5.6)
By: Optimistic When: Apr 17, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: You know how people say about some climbs, "this is a great route for someone just breaking into the grade?" Well, this is a great route for someone just breaking OUT of the grade. I'd call it more educational than fun: gear is fairly tricky to place (lots of flares and crystals to deal with) and the moves are a little awkward.

I'd agree that the move at the end of the crack is a bit of a surprise as well, and gear is below your feet (so far as I could tell) when you pull the move.

[Edit: ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Optimistic When: Apr 11, 2011

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Comments: Maybe whoever it was that said they were rare was just looking in the wrong place! Cool looking little things, although probably I'd think they were less cool if one of them had tried to steal something from me as other folks seem to be saying.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Optimistic When: Apr 9, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I'd read up a little about these after seeing one (at night) at the base of Unimpeachable Groping up by Ginger Buttress. The things I've read described them as quite rare, but I've seen one and clearly you have too. Do people see them often at RR?


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