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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact david goldstein


Point Rank: # 188
Total Points: 2,687
Last Year: 7
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has david goldstein been climbing?










Contributions


All 934 | Routes 160 | Areas 29 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements | Comments 217 | Posts 30 | Stars 382 | Ratings 29
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Bonzo (5.10)
By: david goldstein When: May 19, 2004

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Comments: I basically agree w/ Tony B's comments except that I didn't have any problem w/ loose rock.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (5.12)
By: david goldstein When: May 14, 2004

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Comments: Lives up to its reputation for quality.

Joe, Where else would you put the 4th belay? It seems to me that a miserable hanging belay is inevitable. It would be nice to have a belay seat for this anchor though it would not be of much use at any other anchor.

A 60 meter rappel just makes it from the third anchor to the ground.

Joe's recommended rack was right on the mark.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : The Unforgiven (5.11c)
By: david goldstein When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Wear a helmet and don't leave anything you care about at the base of the climb. Very sustained steep slabbing. At some points the calcite is so thick that it could be fairly called Limestone.


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Butte : Infrared (5.12-)
By: david goldstein When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: I agree with everything the AC who posted the first comment said. A top flight tower route, up there w/ Fine Jade, Jah Man and a small handful of other super classics. For my money, the last pitch ranks with the crux of Shune's Buttress as one of the two best I've done in the desert.

Good job by Smith and Anker, sussing this out and placing just the right amount of bolts on the last pitch.

I thought the ratings in the Bjornstadt route description were all soft and that the pitches went as fo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcont... (5.12a)
By: david goldstein When: Apr 27, 2004

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Comments: Sensational. Two different climbs in one pitch: trad Eldo mankfest followed by high quality and well protected steep Eldo slabbing. You'll feel you've earned your bolts after dealing with the first 40' of infrequent protection and questionable rock. Not a one move wonder by any means but I thought there was a distinct crux near the top of the corner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Scary Poodles (5.11b)
By: david goldstein When: Apr 21, 2004

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Comments: Good climbing, but the crux is really protecting the 8 to 10 feet after the pin, the crux, where I found the placements to be C2 -- hard to get and not very trustworthy. Furthermore, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on the pin which flexes with a good downward pull.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6) : Eldorado Gold (5.11b)
By: david goldstein When: Apr 6, 2004

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Comments: A weak two star. The climbing is good, but the fact that the crux is contrived detracts substantially. The crux is a long reach to a jug btw the 2nd and 3rd bolts and can be avoided by staying in the corner. The climbing beyond this point is good but felt considerably easier than Completion Backward Principle. I found CBP a much more interesting climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6) : Completion Backword Princip... (5.11a/b)
By: david goldstein When: Apr 6, 2004

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Comments: Richard's route description does not completely jibe with the climb I just did. I found two cruxes, the first a roof about midway and the second a traverse to the left near the top which matches Richard's technical crux. This route has interesting moves and good rock but is docked a star for rope drag and possible ledge fall potential at the second crux. Rope drag can be reduced by using a long sling on the bolt below the roof; if the extra fall potential this adds make you unhappy,... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: david goldstein When: Mar 11, 2004

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Comments: We did three pitches beyond those described by Scott and highly recommend them. The first is 70' of 4th class. The second, perhaps our favorite pitch of the entire climb, is about 130' of easy 5.9 (be careful when rapping this pitch, our rope would not pull). The 3rd around 140' of easier 5.9. Continuing looked worthwhile but we walked out in the dark as it was.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Gobbler (5.10-)
By: david goldstein When: Mar 11, 2004

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Comments: Good variety, P2 is a nice change of pace from the typical Black Velvet slab crimping. I've done this climb twice and both times found P2's crux move desperate -- much harder than the 5.9 guidebook rating; a purple (0) Alien size piece comes in handy at this spot (just above the bolt). Also watch out for the rope getting stuck in the finger sized slot after the P2 crux -- I had to rap down from the belay to free it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: david goldstein When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: An excellent climb that I thought offered better value than Levitation. Don't stress over the "aid" section -- it's quite short and the bolts are very close together. You might do well to skip the belay immediately after the aid and link the next pitch in order to avoid a hanging belay directly below hard moves. Rock and Ice published a SuperTopo of the climb which listed a 10c pitch somewhere below the aid, around P5; this pitch was considerably easier than the two 5.10 pitches imm... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: david goldstein When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: Most people will probably find this a sandbag at 10+ with one pitch of PG. We felt that all subsequent pitches were about as hairy as P3. In at least one of his guides, Swain rates FOTR 10+ PG/R. Think Prince of Darkness with at best half as many bolts. That said, I found FOTR far more engrossing and satisfying than POD.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: david goldstein When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: I think this while excellent is not in a class with super-classics such as Astroman, Epinephrine, Oz (w/ Gram Traverse), Naked Edge, Freeway, or for that matter, its neighbor, Crimson Chrysalis. I found virtually every pitch quite soft for the grade, except for the crux (P4) a desperate thin stemming corner. The last pitch seemed to me about Indian Creek 10+. IMO, the quality of the climb is diminished by the fact that the crux is much more difficult that the rest of the climb.


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: david goldstein When: Feb 27, 2004

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Comments: The following is copied from emails sent to me by Dave Jones, one of Zion's leading route developers.Dave scoffs at the notion that "there are only 10 good routes in Zion."

My personal top free or mostly free routes

Golden Years (Kolob)Shune'sLovelace (aka Fang Wall above Pine Creek)The VigilSilmaril (Watchman)Rites of Passage (Red Arch)Hello Mary Lou (Angelino Wall, S. face of Streaked Wall)Hue and Cry (Watchman)Bits and Pieces (Red Arch)

Shorter good routesDancing With Zully (W. Face Mt Spr... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Holiday In Cambodia (5.11a)
By: david goldstein When: Nov 3, 2003

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Comments: Van Horn's latest edition rates this as 10c. Earns a bomb for: contrivance (easily accessed ledge provides off route rest), bad rock on upper 3rd and cramming (shares upper 3rd w/ Breakfast in Bhopal). On the plus side, it's away from the crowds. A bomb might be a little harsh, but three stars is simply absurd, even by Shelf Road standards.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Blackjack (5.10b/c R)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 27, 2003

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Comments: I agree w/ BW that this route is somewhat stiff for its guidebook rating of 10a, but I disagree w/ him that it has terrible pro and completely sucks. The fixed pins, which are Dolemite style relics, can be backed up. In particlular, a #2 RP (red) provides toprope protection for the crux step down. The RP itself can be backed up w/ a not-so-great #5 Camalot. Other gear that can be placed to back up the pins: #2 Friend (so-so), green Alien (pretty good). Some of the pins off... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Walk of Shame (V-easy X)
By: david goldstein When: Oct 24, 2003

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Comments: The deterioration of this classic outing provides a textbook example of how modern innovtaions (e.g. beta based web sites, guidebooks, trail signs) have ruined everything. Back in the day, when the only published guide to the Black was a vague bit of filler from an ancient Rock and Ice, and one generally relied on half-remembered word of mouth, the route went as follows:

From the campground walk east some distance past the ranger station, turn south/right and follow vague trails down the "Crui... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Blanca Peak : Little Bear-Blanca Traverse (5.0)
By: david goldstein When: Sep 4, 2003

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Comments: Poor rock (and judgment) on this route was the cause of my closest call ever. Somewhere in the middle of the traverse I tried to cut straight across the face of a pillar rather than taking the less technical, but longer, path up and down the pillar. Midway across the face, as I was committed to glued-on holds and thinking, "Messner must deal with sketch like this all the time", my sole foothold broke off. I fell a few feet, slammed into a small, sloping slab and started sliding towards the se... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : Mainstreet (5.10a)
By: david goldstein When: Aug 21, 2003

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Comments: Just to set the record straight, the Grade III I assigned to this one pitch climb when I posted it was a typo.

It's really a Grade IV.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: david goldstein When: Aug 10, 2003

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Comments: There is a fixed nut in the middle of the undercling/traverse, a couple of feet below and several feet to the side of the 2nd crux. Small cams can be easily be placed after the nut and before C2. For the highly motivated/craven, an RP can be placed in the middle of C2.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: david goldstein When: Aug 3, 2003

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Comments: An excellent pitch featuring two cruxes, one steep and one slabby. The following is my beta for doing the pitch the from the Howling at the Wind belay (on top of the huge block), a much easier and more common approach than El Camino Real. (Note that this belay can be reached from Perelandra P1, instead of HATW P1, obviating the need for the extra big pieces that the later requires.)

Hand traverse right for two moves into the corner. This traverse is not well protected and though rated 10a i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Blackout (5.10a)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 28, 2003

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Comments: Most people will consider the lower corner to be S.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tiger's Tooth (5.9+)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 26, 2003

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Comments: One of the best pitches at Lumpy. Hidden holds keep showing up where you most want and least expect them.

I found it fairly well protected w/ 1 ea of the following large gear: #4 & #5 Camalot, #3 Big Bro. Take a full range of smaller gear for various side cracks.

Considerably easier than Mainstreet (10a) of Vedauwoo.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.11 PG13)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 12, 2003

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Comments: Re the BG/TG "debate" as to which side of the arete the 2nd belay and start of the 3rd pitch are on: they're both sort of right.First of all, in the immediate vicinity of the belay, the arete is less well defined than it is below, possibly leading to divergent opinions about exactly where the arete is. In the vicinity of the crux, though, the arete is well defined and relative to this, TB is right, the anchor, the fixed nut and the crux bolt are just to the left on the arete. However, the bel... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Ship's Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.11 PG13)
By: david goldstein When: Jul 12, 2003

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Comments: This comment addresses the route itself; I intend to add another comment that speaks to the above controversy/bickering, which brought the route to Andy Moore and my attention, leading to our ascent.

This route is a nice way to have a day in the mountains that is not completely exhausting. The approach is relatively short, basically Casm Lake, the climb is only four pitches and you can rap from any point -- a good one to do if you feel like sleeping in (just kidding, sort of).

The ... more >>


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