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Traversing right on unknown problem (V6?) at Monument Cove, Acadia


Member Since: Apr 29, 2011
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 54 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 7 | Posts 2 | Stars 24 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Right to Left Traverse

5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b V2 5+ (1)

Boulder, 1 pitch, 50'

ME : Acadia National Park : Monument Cove

Jul 9, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Map of the area with major walls. From the guidebook, which you should buy because it's really helpful.

Map of the area with major walls. From the guidebook, which you should buy because it's really helpful.

NY : The Gunks : Peterskill

Jul 8, 2013

Traversing right on unknown problem (V6?) at Monument Cove, Acadia

Traversing right on unknown problem (V6?) at Monument Cove, Acadia

ME : Acadia National Park : Monument Cove

Jul 9, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Peace Dove Boulder : Peace Dove (V2+)
By: David Friend When: Sep 7, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: No way this is a V2. Desperate grab to painful slopers = classic V3.

Also, the sit start only adds a single (easy) move to the problem. I think either variation (sit or stand) is V3.

My two cents.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Scaramouche Arete (5.11d)
By: David Friend When: Jul 9, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This description is a bit dated. Some updates:

- There are 6 or 7 bolts now, not sure which ones are new
- Bring some medium cams for a gear anchor at top if bringing up a second...you can rappel from Return to Forever anchor, but it is too far right to belay from.
- Despite the name, this is a face climb.

This would be a proud on-sight (especially if rain has washed away chalk). I won't spew beta, except to say crux doesn't come until after 3rd bolt.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Colonial Ambush (5.11+)
By: David Friend When: Jun 20, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I was on the first two pitches of Colonial Ambush on 6/10/2012. The lichen has grown back like barnacles on a ship. We tried but bailed on the third pitch...bring a brush and your gardening gloves if you want to do the whole thing.

First two pitches have neat slab cruxes which are a lot easier if you're seconding on chalked holds :). Sure wish that knifeblade on the first pitch was still there.

If you're only doing first two pitches, rack is single set of small cams 0.3 through 0.75, and 12 dr... more >>


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff
By: David Friend When: Apr 22, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Standard rack for Ragged:

- Single set of nuts
- Single set of cams .5 through 3
- #4 and #5 useful on some routes
- 10 trad draws
- Cordelette
- 60m rope


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Sign Language (5.10c)
By: David Friend When: Oct 29, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, a key chip for the left hand has broken, and moving up to the right after clipping the sixth bolt feels like 5.11a/b (height dependent). It's a one move crux, and rest of climb is still 5.10-fun! Pull on the draw if near your limit.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Unconquerable Crack (5.10a)
By: David Friend When: Jul 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Mix of crack and face moves. I thought the crux was just above where the crack widens for a bit. Couldn't get a jam, ended up lie-backing to the left with some fun feet work.


Location: CT : Central CT : Ragged Mountain : Main Cliff : Carey Corner (5.7)
By: David Friend When: Jul 18, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.

I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Are my shoes able to be resoled?Climbing Gear DiscussionDavid FriendAug 18, 2013
Found: three draws at Rumney - The MeadowsLost and FoundDavid FriendApr 17, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Triple S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

Old Town 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Moby Grape 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area

Sticky Fingers 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc

VMC Direct Direct 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

NH : Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall

Flying Hawaiian 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

NH : Rumney : Waimea

Underdog 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Know Ethics 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Millenium Falcon 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Carey Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

CT : Central CT : ... : Main Cliff

Soler 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : ... : Upper Broadway

Thais 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face

Flesh For Lulu 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

NH : Rumney : ... : Holderness Corner

Gunboat Diplomacy 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Rap Echo 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Wafer Step 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Scaramouche Arete 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Unconquerable Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

CT : Central CT : ... : Main Cliff

Lightning Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc

Sign Language 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : The Egg

Recollections of Pacifica 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Fingers on a Seascape 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Iron Man 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Right to Left Traverse 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b V2 5+

ME : Acadia National Park : Monument Cove

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Scaramouche Arete

5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

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