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Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Peace Dove Boulder : Peace Dove (V2+)
By: David Friend When: Sep 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No way this is a V2. Desperate grab to painful slopers = classic V3.
Also, the sit start only adds a single (easy) move to the problem. I think either variation (sit or stand) is V3.
My two cents.
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Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Scaramouche Arete (5.11d)
By: David Friend When: Jul 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This description is a bit dated. Some updates:
- There are 6 or 7 bolts now, not sure which ones are new
- Bring some medium cams for a gear anchor at top if bringing up a second...you can rappel from Return to Forever anchor, but it is too far right to belay from.
- Despite the name, this is a face climb.
This would be a proud on-sight (especially if rain has washed away chalk). I won't spew beta, except to say crux doesn't come until after 3rd bolt.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Colonial Ambush (5.11+)
By: David Friend When: Jun 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was on the first two pitches of Colonial Ambush on 6/10/2012. The lichen has grown back like barnacles on a ship. We tried but bailed on the third pitch...bring a brush and your gardening gloves if you want to do the whole thing.
First two pitches have neat slab cruxes which are a lot easier if you're seconding on chalked holds :). Sure wish that knifeblade on the first pitch was still there.
If you're only doing first two pitches, rack is single set of small cams 0.3 through 0.75, and 12 dr... more >>
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff...
By: David Friend When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Standard rack for Ragged:
- Single set of nuts
- Single set of cams .5 through 3
- #4 and #5 useful on some routes
- 10 trad draws
- Cordelette
- 60m rope
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Sign Language (5.10c)
By: David Friend When: Oct 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, a key chip for the left hand has broken, and moving up to the right after clipping the sixth bolt feels like 5.11a/b (height dependent). It's a one move crux, and rest of climb is still 5.10-fun! Pull on the draw if near your limit.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Unconquerable Crack (5.10a)
By: David Friend When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mix of crack and face moves. I thought the crux was just above where the crack widens for a bit. Couldn't get a jam, ended up lie-backing to the left with some fun feet work.
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Location: CT : Central CT Traprock : Ragged Mountain (Main Cliff... : Carey Corner (5.7)
By: David Friend When: Jul 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.
I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7.
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