Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Caustic C*** 5.11-


Member Since: Feb 10, 2012
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact David Bruneau

Point Rank: # 609
Total Points: 1,258
Last Year: 155
Last 30 Days: 10
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Bruneau been climbing?










Contributions


All 661 | Routes 76 | Areas 8 | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 33 | Posts 8 | Stars 367 | Ratings 100
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Warrior Wall
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Approach beta: the go left-right beta here got us lost in an epic gully-hell that had more than one set of bail slings in it. Basically you should be able to see the climb at the beginning of the trail and for the entirety of the approach gully to the climb. If you cannot see the route 10 minutes into your approach, turn back and take another fork!

Rock Climbing Photo: Right/Wrong gully
Right/Wrong gully



Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome - Warrior Wall - ... : Warrior Wall : The Warrior (5.10d)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Intimidating but soft. Rock is quite grippy and feels somewhat underclimbed. 70m with knotted ends + trending left gets you down in one rap. #4 was nice at crux. Bring lots of gear, doesn't matter what kind as there are many, many pro options.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Damnation Crack (5.9+)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing is 5.9, but bold thru the chimney section. Bring small pro (RP's, ballnuts) for up higher in the chimney or expect some excitement... I found my self run-out facing outwards with a decent placement a foot out of reach.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Area : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: First 2 pitches are unremarkable - find another way up to the ledge. The headwall crack might be the best pitch of 5.7 I have ever done.

Descent is fine. Follow cairns down the first obvious gully.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Stuart-Enchantments : Mt Stuart : The Direct North Ridge w/ G... (5.9+)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: First alpine climb. Tried to do this car-to-car in a day, in a party of 3 with a 3:30AM start. Summit at 5:50PM from the south approach, then f***ed up the descent by descending the wrong couloir (not too bad) then taking the wrong trail in the dark afterwards (added 15 km to the hike, turned the day into an epic). An absolutely exhausting day - probably best to plan to bivy if you're unsure that you can do the climb and hike quickly enough to do the descent in the light. Or ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : Even Steven (5.10+)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: There's a jug on this after the crux that moves if you pull out on it. Scared me quite a bit. Not quite PG13 but the pro on this is sometimes a bit strange or thin, some of the rock is hollow and you can't place gear everywhere. Bring lots of long slings.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I had the same experience with the #6 C4 on the 10b offwidth variation, it tipped out completely 1/3 of the way up. With a blue big bro after this it was still somewhat run out on 5.9 terrain. I got a mediocre 00 mastercam in a horizontal seam about 2/3 of the way up, and many different small cams would work for the easy top part.

Also on pitch 5 (supposed 10a finger crack corner) I didn't step right due to x-marked blocks but climbed straight up a steep thin crack in ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Dark Water (5.10b)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Small gear = RP's, ballnuts, maybe an offset cam. I would call it PG13 because the pro is sometimes not rated for a lead fall and the stances are strenuous. I would not recommend trying to onsight this


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : Swift Current
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: CAMPING BETA:

Piper's Hole River has an excellent free campground, a few kilometers from the crags at Swift Current. The road into the campsites is a somewhat rough gravel road, but most small cars should be able to negotiate it without bottoming out.

There are two campsites, one can fit many tents and the other can fit maybe three but is not accessible by RV, so it's unlikely that it's occupied. It's recommended ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Earn Your Stripes (5.10c)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Very dry today, felt far easier than the FA as the crack was damp then, from just being cleaned.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Gee, I'm a Tree (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Forgot how good this route was! Probably worth mentioning that rappelling from this route has high swing potential, so it's best to have the last climber toprope it and clean the draws.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Richard Parker (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Added another bolt for the ledge traverse. Probably best to unclip this once the bolt on the arete is clipped to reduce rope drag.

This was described as "5.8 climbing with 5.10 routefinding"


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Zoroaster (5.7 X)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Climbing near the outside is the good practice for chimney technique, where there aren't as many features. It is very easy to control your descent down this chimney by just pushing on the sides - I don't really see how you could manage to free fall to the bottom unless you suddenly went unconscious.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: My beta was to lug up a couple bottles of water and stash them in the horizontal below the bulge. Beer could be effective as well. This beta definitely enabled me to fall out of the crux many more times than I could have otherwise.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Roll, Pitch, Yaw (5.11b)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The cracks and seams at the bottom of this route are often wet, but this doesn't interfere with the climbing.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: One of the bolts (3rd or 4th?) is placed in hollow rock. I am sure it has held falls but it was a little unnerving. Maybe a really long glue in bolt would be a good idea. Excellent climbing though.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Slot Left (5.7)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I remember feeling uncomfortable about 3 or 4 feet below the break without any gear yet, so I put the biggest nut I could find on a 120 cm sling and swung it into the obvious bucket about 4 feet above me. Turned out to be bomber.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Grunt (5.11a)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe 11a on toprope where you can do compression moves most of the way, but finding stances to place adequate gear changes the sequence and makes it considerably harder on lead.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : South Coast / Burin Peninsu... : ... : Tiger Slabs
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Today (28/07/2015) I put a fixed line in the gully between Tiger Wall and Geometry Wall. You can self belay up the easy slab to reduce the approach to the Tiger Slabs.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Second Cove
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This area has a dangerous approach, be very careful and go one person at a time. Rocks are usually dislodged on the way down. I attached a fixed line to the tree at the top to have something to grab on the way down (on 03/10/2015). With the fixed line it is fairly easy to go straight down the grassy ridge at the left side of the descent. If you use the rope, coiling it under the tree when you're done will help preserve it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought the first two pitches were the hardest, I guess that some holds have broken since the FA. Linked 3 and 4 due to no anchor on the ledge, rope drag wasn't bad with a long draw under the roof. The last couple of pitches were the best, really exposed and excellent climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Grouse Zombies (5.9+)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route takes longer to dry than other routes in the area.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : Zombie Wall
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The rappel from the trees to the bolts at the bottom of the crag is about 50 meters.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Avalon Peninsula : ... : An Drouiz Ijinek (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route and the 4 others to the left converge near the top on some easy terrain. The line of bolts leading to the right felt significantly harder than the left line of bolts. Left line was 5.10a or easier and the right line was harder 5.10. I guess that means that this line is more of a 5.10 if you are supposed to take the right line of bolts.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Central / Northeastern Coas... : ... : The After-Hours
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: 2 bolt toprope anchors were added to the 5 routes on the trad wall. They are safely accessible from above. A 12 foot cordalette loop (24 feet of cord total) should work as an anchor for all of them.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!