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Rock Climbing Photo: Caustic C*** 5.11-


Member Since: Feb 10, 2012
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact David Bruneau

Point Rank: # 617
Total Points: 1,225
Last Year: 236
Last 30 Days: 92
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Bruneau been climbing?










Contributions


All 577 | Routes 74 | Areas 8 | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 8 | Stars 321 | Ratings 73

Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Swift Current
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: CAMPING BETA:

Piper's Hole River has an excellent free campground, a few kilometers from the crags at Swift Current. The road into the campsites is a somewhat rough gravel road, but most small cars should be able to negotiate it without bottoming out.

There are two campsites, one can fit many tents and the other can fit maybe three but is not accessible by RV, so it's unlikely that it's occupied. It's recommended ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Swift Current : ... : Earn Your Stripes (5.10c)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Very dry today, felt far easier than the FA as the crack was damp then, from just being cleaned.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Swift Current : ... : Gee, I'm a Tree (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Forgot how good this route was! Probably worth mentioning that rappelling from this route has high swing potential, so it's best to have the last climber toprope it and clean the draws.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Swift Current : ... : Richard Parker (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Added another bolt for the ledge traverse. Probably best to unclip this once the bolt on the arete is clipped to reduce rope drag.

This was described as "5.8 climbing with 5.10 routefinding"


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff : Zoroaster (5.7 X)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: Climbing near the outside is the good practice for chimney technique, where there aren't as many features. It is very easy to control your descent down this chimney by just pushing on the sides - I don't really see how you could manage to free fall to the bottom unless you suddenly went unconscious.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : MaxiLash (5.11a)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: My beta was to lug up a couple bottles of water and stash them in the horizontal below the bulge. Beer could be effective as well. This beta definitely enabled me to fall out of the crux many more times than I could have otherwise.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Logy Bay, Cadigans Side : Roll, Pitch, Yaw (5.11a)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 2, 2016

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Comments: The cracks and seams at the bottom of this route are often wet, but this doesn't interfere with the climbing.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Lonesome Dove (5.10a)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 5, 2015

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Comments: One of the bolts (3rd or 4th?) is placed in hollow rock. I am sure it has held falls but it was a little unnerving. Maybe a really long glue in bolt would be a good idea. Excellent climbing though.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Slot Left (5.7)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: I remember feeling uncomfortable about 3 or 4 feet below the break without any gear yet, so I put the biggest nut I could find on a 120 cm sling and swung it into the obvious bucket about 4 feet above me. Turned out to be bomber.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Flatrock : ... : Grunt (5.11a)
By: David Bruneau When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: Maybe 11a on toprope where you can do compression moves most of the way, but finding stances to place adequate gear changes the sequence and makes it considerably harder on lead.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Swift Current : Tiger Slabs
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: Today (28/07/2015) I put a fixed line in the gully between Tiger Wall and Geometry Wall. You can self belay up the easy slab to reduce the approach to the Tiger Slabs.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Blackhead : Second Cove
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: This area has a dangerous approach, be very careful and go one person at a time. Rocks are usually dislodged on the way down. I attached a fixed line to the tree at the top to have something to grab on the way down (on 03/10/2015). With the fixed line it is fairly easy to go straight down the grassy ridge at the left side of the descent. If you use the rope, coiling it under the tree when you're done will help preserve it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I thought the first two pitches were the hardest, I guess that some holds have broken since the FA. Linked 3 and 4 due to no anchor on the ledge, rope drag wasn't bad with a long draw under the roof. The last couple of pitches were the best, really exposed and excellent climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : DFO : Grouse Zombies (5.9+)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: This route takes longer to dry than other routes in the area.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : DFO
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: The rappel from the trees to the bolts at the bottom of the crag is about 50 meters.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : DFO : An Drouiz Ijinek (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 18, 2015

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Comments: This route and the 4 others to the left converge near the top on some easy terrain. The line of bolts leading to the right felt significantly harder than the left line of bolts. Left line was 5.10a or easier and the right line was harder 5.10. I guess that means that this line is more of a 5.10 if you are supposed to take the right line of bolts.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Fair Island : The After-Hours
By: David Bruneau When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: 2 bolt toprope anchors were added to the 5 routes on the trad wall. They are safely accessible from above. A 12 foot cordalette loop (24 feet of cord total) should work as an anchor for all of them.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Flatrock : ... : Seascape (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: Yellow and red ballnuts are needed for this route.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Flatrock : ... : Medicated Drama Queen (5.11+)
By: David Bruneau When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: Belayed on this route today and got hit by one of the main clipping holds...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10b R)
By: David Bruneau When: May 1, 2015

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Comments: Jug haul with a few cryptic crimpy sequences in the middle - climbs like a gym route. The gear was beyond bomber and all the stances were comfortable. The hard moves all seem to have safe, clean falls. Definitely go for the lead!


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Lost Wall Area : Return To Balance (5.10)
By: David Bruneau When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: Very small holds on this thing now. Tried it at least 6 times from the ground - furthest I got was feet at bolt 1, not quite able to reach bolt 2. Definitely worth trying as the sequence to there was pretty fun


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Land of the Rising Moon : Moonrise Variation (5.10d)
By: David Bruneau When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: IMO, the first few feet of the offwidth finish on Moontide were harder than the crux of Mainstreet and probably had the sharpest crystals out of all the routes I did in Vedauwoo over a 3 week stay. Definitely agree about the #6 Camalot, but sling it long or back clean it after bumping it because the anchors are 15 feet to the left of the offwidth.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Leamy's Pond Boulders : Photo
By: David Bruneau When: May 9, 2013

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Comments: See if you can spot the dog in this photo!


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Flatrock : ... : Vanilla Slice (5.9)
By: David Bruneau When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: Bomber pro, less chossy than it looks. The climbing is quite good on the top half. Standard rack to #6 camalot, double up on #5 camalot. Obviously there are things you shouldn't pull on, just use some common sense.


Location: North America : Canada : Newfoundland and Labrador : Newfoundland : Flatrock : ... : Steve (5.3)
By: David Bruneau When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: This route and Sea Section require rappelling off the anchors of May Day, the rightmost sport route on the wall. Rap to a foot ledge 10 feet above the ocean. The routes traverse right initially.

This route would be a good first trad lead.



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