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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : High Life Wall : Always Smooth (5.11b)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Oct 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this route! I just did it yesterday. I found three rest spots on this route - below the third bolt on the ledge, on the ledge left of the sixth bolt, and above the seventh - enabling me to mostly avoid a pump. The start was a bit strenuous, but I didn't find it awkward. For me, the crux was at the last bolt. There the holds get small and, I suppose, I had a slight pump going!
This is a must-do route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Babyhorn : ... : Photo
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Oct 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta love (i.e. respect) proud parents, or otherwise it could easily be interpreted as just another bad butt shot
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: As an alternate to the water streak for P6-P7, jodie b. nicely lead the corner up and slightly right of the large oak (at the top of the gully). This seemed like a nice variation to a scary, largely unprotected water streak.
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Location: New Red Rock guidebook - AV...
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess I have to join the band; Handren's climbing guidebook is far superior to any other that I have seen (or purchased). Well worth the $. It should be considered the benchmark for all future guidebooks.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Double Exposure (5.11a/b)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Aug 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I never see anyone on this route. Just wondering why; is it not fun or just hard enough to keep most people off of it?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Mayflower (5.9)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jun 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb for those that only recently started crack climbing (and probably a good warm-up for experienced crackers). This climb provides safe thrills!
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mr. Breeze (5.2) : Photo
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jun 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : Bedrock : The Viper (5.11d)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jun 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Technically, this route is considered on the Shooting Gallery Wall. However, its proximity to bedrock is why I posted it here- FYI.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : ... : Photo
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jun 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo joda.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Schizophrenic Boulevard (5.10c) : Photo
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jun 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo by Marcy
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : Swiss Tower : Don't Feed the Agave (5.11c PG13)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Manny. I am climbing pretty strong at the moment; I think it may be an 11c. Compare the moves on this route with True Value (or Fruit Bowl) and then you judge.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Jack Jumped (5.11a)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: May 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux of this climb is getting established just under the last roof (right most edge of the last roof). I found a good crimper that I cross to with my left hand with my right hand in the bucket pocket that you WILL find. A high step crank and the crimper gets you to a positive hold just around the corner. One can easily clip the bolt on the second roof and then back-track to the crack to get a shake.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Mint Julep (5.9)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: May 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although the start is dirty and diffuse, the line is actually quite nice. This route does, however, have two cruxes where pro is either thin (bottom crux moving over a bulge) or absent (at the top, exiting the crack). Bring your big guns for doing this route!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow....!!! Just "shows to go you" that people have different perspectives. Although there were a few too many bolts, and the belays are not necessarily in the best locations (and many of them are not comfortable), I found: 1) the approach, while long, was not unpleasant, 2) that there were a few (perhaps two or three) 5.9 moves, 3) the exposure awesome, 4) no problems with pulling the ropes on the raps, and 5) the climbing fun and unique. Cold weather kept us (fun day with jodie and Marcy@SEM... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8) : Photo
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another (alternate) pic with pitch info has been uploaded.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8) : Photo
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Mar 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note: The roof (red arrow), viewable from the approach, is a visual aid to finding the route. The start of the route, and the pitch belays (numbered) are illustrated in yellow.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Cracker Jack Cliffs : Carmel Coated Fun (5.11c)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Mar 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found going past the third bolt the crux; obvious RH side-pull enables one to move up to a left hand bucket pocket.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Stronghold Dome : Bee Line (5.9 R)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Mar 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I find this "discussion" rater silly (R versus X). There is a fairly clear definition on what makes a route deserve an R rating versus an X rating (assuming, of course, that the Mountaineering Club is a valid citation) see below;
Quote:
""Since the standard usage of the Yosemite Decimal System defines only the hardest move on a pitch, or the hardest pitch on a multipitch route, a seriousness factor was introduced to give an indication of the relative danger of the climb. This system... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Feb 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree; route finding on the first pitch is difficult. For P1 I would suggest that climbers look up and right for a clump of grasses NEAR the start of the diagonal crack of P2 (viewable in February, anyway- likely viewable any time of the year). This provides an objective; climb whatever way (safely) possible to achieve the small ledge associated with this clump of grasses).
And, when Bill and I did this a few days ago, we choose different belay stances than that listed a... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Owl Rock : Nightstalker (5.9)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Feb 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very nice climb, but I found it a bit sandbagged; for shorter individuals the opening move is not 5.9 but, rather, more like 5.10a/b. and, the move at the diagonal crack (after the first bolt) is also more like 5.10a/b.
For gear, I would also suggest small to medium Aliens to protect (one of) the crux move(s) [establishing one-self onto the plates/jugs above the diagonal crack].
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Southern Superstition Forma... : ... : De Grazia (5.7)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Feb 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: (From Waugh 1987) Look for the low-angled slabs just left and below the lighter-colored rock on the wall.
P1- "Climb the bulge veering left onto enjoyable friction climbing that leads to a ledge (about 45 ft). Climb 25 ft veering left over the next bulge to a bolt. From here work up face to the long ledge at the top of the friction slabs (2 belay bolts)"; NOTE- new hangers and rap rings here.
P2- "A tree will be noted above. Climb up 120-130 feet towards the tree to a ledge (belay... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Dromedary Peak : Ivory Tower : Me and My Bulldog (5.11a)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jan 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMHO this route goes at 5.11c. I would be interested in what others think.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Dromedary Peak : Ivory Tower : Winghingdingadee (5.10d)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jan 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please note. Because this area receives little traffic, substantial rock fall on this route continues to occur. Recently, a friend took a bad fall at the second hanger (prior to clipping it) when the hold he was using broke.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Dromedary Peak
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Jan 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please note: at present there is no established trail to the Ivory Tower area (the original trail from the early to mid 1990’s is not apparent). I, along with some friends, have started placing strategic cairns that initiate from the small hill where limited parking is available (for 4-WD vehicles). All visitors to this area may wish to help establish a viable trail to reduce human impact to the desert for the approach to Ivory Tower.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Finktion Wall : Sampsonite (5.10b/c)
By: David Arthur Sampson When: Oct 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Exit the climb left, passing over the last bolt before the shuts on Finktion arete.
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