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Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST


Member Since: May 7, 2008
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,042
Total Points: 643
Last Year: 18
Last 30 Days: 6
86 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Aguasca! been climbing?










Contributions


All 611 | Routes 15 | Areas 8 | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 143 | Posts 161 | Stars 162 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : The Thrill Is Gone (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Amen.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Spock's Brain (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Second vote on the micronuts. I found the stances for gear placement to be pretty desperate, too.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : Inhibitor (5.11a PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this again for the first time in 6 years...definitely not a gimme, but definitely not PG13. The only part that is hard to protect is the squeeze before the #5 placement, and if you fall out before placing it you probably have no business leading this route.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Yuk (5.9 PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Classic OW climbing. Would be even better if it got a little more traffic, as the top is kind of dirty. Also, hard for the grade!

Does not protect with cams unless you have Valley Giants; takes #3 and #4 big bros pretty well, though. I found a single #2 camalot placement in a horizontal on the right face.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Magnum Opus (5.12a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Slopey edges after a pockety crux, like charris said. The moves between bolts 2 and 4 are harder than any move on Super Best Friends.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Sunbeam Buttress : Morning Sun (5.11b)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I would say very bouldery, plus an awkward clip near the top.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Lost Ridge : Kaiju (5.11-)
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Holy COW...the composite picture blew my mind. Is it really only 30m to the roof at the top of the picture?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Worm Drive : Eight Ounces To Freedom (V9)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: I didn't get the sit-up, but for me the crux was trying to ignore the feeling that my ankle was going to snap. Thoughts?


Location: NY : West Point
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know what the status is here? A friend of mine was told to leave the area by a police officer on a boat. Pretty weird.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Bridge of Khazad-Dm (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Climb up the slab trending leftwards, then dyno out the roof.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Rainbow Slabs : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Excellent addition! Thanks!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Great picture of an awesome dude


Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Jesus...placing cams on this is hard enough, you brought a bro??? Brave!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: epic butt shot


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Another vote for gear to 5". Also save some 0.5-2 camalot gear for the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: The roof is the crux but don't downplay the start, as it's pretty strenuous off the deck and if you blow it you'll asshat your belayer. Protects well with 2 or 3 finger sized pieces and 2 hand-sized pieces. Also, a 0.75 or 0.5 camalot is good for a redirect above the roof to prevent your second from swinging.

No idea how to get onto the ledge from below, though. My friend and I ended up hiking around to the back and tunneling through between the main boulder and the enormous flake that is next... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I did this with Dan (above) mid-April 2014 and I agree with him, a 60m will link the two pitches for one awesome megapitch.

If you do this, it would be nice to have 2 #5 and 2 #6 camalots, as this is the size of the crack most of the way. Be sure to save one of either as they are the only thing that will protect in the crack before the traverse to the right-hand crack, where you can get a hand-sized piece. In addition, bring a heap of long slings, I had to back clean a bunch of t... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Crack (5.10b PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Samuel,

I added this route before I knew any better, and actually I was intending on climbing it while I lived in NH but never got around to it. From what I remember the PG13 is from when the route was first climbed, they didn't really have adequate pro for the main section, so instead some sketchy star drives or 1/4 inchers were used, which are in situ to this day.

If you climbed it, what did you think of it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : 1096 (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Go Freschl!!!!!


Location: VA : Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O... : Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I protected this just fine with a new 5 camalot, 4 camalot, 2 camalot, and an old 3.5 camalot. Belay off the two bolt anchor at the top of The The, and be careful getting your rope stuck in the finger crack if you decide to TR it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I assure you, no one was dropped, and the most dangerous thing we did that day was drive on Tioga Road...damn RVs!!!


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: CHAD TRY HARDER


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: What is this, a roof for ants?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Dang, Alexey, I couldn't disagree more about pitch 1 on Blind Faith being the same difficulty as the Rostrum crux. It felt so hard to me! At least the rostrum crux has actual finger locks on it. P1 of of Blind Faith is so rattley.

But as far as P3 is concerned, I agree...it's definitely not harder than Twilight Zone or 10.96. It's most likely 5.10d, maybe just 5.10+. As far as the rack goes, if I do it again, I'm tempted to just leave the 6 and bring a couple big bros for those first 50 feet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.

The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.

No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weird... more >>


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