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Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST


Member Since: May 7, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 15, 2014
Contact David Aguasca!


Point Rank: # 958
Total Points: 641
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Aguasca! been climbing?










Contributions


All 555 | Routes 15 | Areas 8 | Photos 46 | Page Improvments | Comments 131 | Posts 161 | Stars 132 | Ratings 62
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Jesus...placing cams on this is hard enough, you brought a bro??? Brave!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: epic butt shot


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Another vote for gear to 5". Also save some 0.5-2 camalot gear for the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: The roof is the crux but don't downplay the start, as it's pretty strenuous off the deck and if you blow it you'll asshat your belayer. Protects well with 2 or 3 finger sized pieces and 2 hand-sized pieces. Also, a 0.75 or 0.5 camalot is good for a redirect above the roof to prevent your second from swinging.

No idea how to get onto the ledge from below, though. My friend and I ended up hiking around to the back and tunneling through between the main boulder and the enormous flake that is next... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I did this with Dan (above) mid-April 2014 and I agree with him, a 60m will link the two pitches for one awesome megapitch.

If you do this, it would be nice to have 2 #5 and 2 #6 camalots, as this is the size of the crack most of the way. Be sure to save one of either as they are the only thing that will protect in the crack before the traverse to the right-hand crack, where you can get a hand-sized piece. In addition, bring a heap of long slings, I had to back clean a bunch of t... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Crack (5.10b PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Samuel,

I added this route before I knew any better, and actually I was intending on climbing it while I lived in NH but never got around to it. From what I remember the PG13 is from when the route was first climbed, they didn't really have adequate pro for the main section, so instead some sketchy star drives or 1/4 inchers were used, which are in situ to this day.

If you climbed it, what did you think of it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : 1096 (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Go Freschl!!!!!


Location: VA : Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O... : Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I protected this just fine with a new 5 camalot, 4 camalot, 2 camalot, and an old 3.5 camalot. Belay off the two bolt anchor at the top of The The, and be careful getting your rope stuck in the finger crack if you decide to TR it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I assure you, no one was dropped, and the most dangerous thing we did that day was drive on Tioga Road...damn RVs!!!


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: CHAD TRY HARDER


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: What is this, a roof for ants?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Dang, Alexey, I couldn't disagree more about pitch 1 on Blind Faith being the same difficulty as the Rostrum crux. It felt so hard to me! At least the rostrum crux has actual finger locks on it. P1 of of Blind Faith is so rattley.

But as far as P3 is concerned, I agree...it's definitely not harder than Twilight Zone or 10.96. It's most likely 5.10d, maybe just 5.10+. As far as the rack goes, if I do it again, I'm tempted to just leave the 6 and bring a couple big bros for those first 50 feet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.

The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.

No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weird... more >>


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I really like the fact that you can clearly see Chad on the ground, looking up.


Location: NH : Cave Mountain : Roofer Madness (5.11+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Really good. It would actually be classic if the rock was a little better and a little cleaner.

The hard parts are hands...flaring hands. Cool lip encounter.

Gear is mostly good, you just have to make sure every piece will hold. Otherwise you will probably land on your head. I placed mostly .75-4 Camalots. Doubles is a good idea. Again, you are very close to the ground/boulders.

Oh, yeah...and tape.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: Sorry, john, I got excited...I just never thought roofs like this existed in NH


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: OOOOOOOH MY GODWSAOWESNUICADSORIBL/'A,D8.R


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Found Ledge : The Main Cliff : Short But Sweet (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: That looks like it could be beautiful


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This photo makes it look so sexy.


Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice job, lee! In the video I continue as I do before, in the chimney...I use a small quartz crystal in a pocket and the mediocre finger jams above the head to scootch the last few feet sideways. How did you do it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 17, 2012

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Comments: Mark, don't be discouraged...the Chicken is throwing a hand-fist stack right there, not a fist jam.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Big Bob's Big Wedge : Big Bob's Big Wedge (5.11 V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Cool picture, Matt.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Bridge of Khazad-Dm (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: "Right hand crimp/right foot high-step micro-edge/left hand thumbs-down jam/left foot jam!"


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