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Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST


Member Since: May 7, 2008
Last Visit: Aug 4, 2015
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Point Rank: # 1,026
Total Points: 684
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 0
95 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Aguasca! been climbing?










Contributions


All 654 | Routes 17 | Areas 9 | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 149 | Posts 161 | Stars 185 | Ratings 87
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Disco Death March (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: It's possible to almost entire avoid the undercling traverse by going slightly lower on some small feet and smaller hands. Gets you to the stance below the lip without too much trouble, although it's probably easier for taller folks.


Location: NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : High Electricity : High Electricity (5.8+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Pretty sure this is a boulder problem.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Tuggin Shack Boulders : Souvenir (V6)
By: David Aguasca! When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: A picture is worth a thousand words, so a video must be worth a million:




Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Party Till Yer Blind (5.10b)
By: David Aguasca! When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: This has a scary start. I don't recommend it unless you're solid at the grade. Regardless, it is all fun thin face climbing! Bring lots of 2' runners, you won't regret it.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Maranatha Area : Agent Orange (5.12a)
By: David Aguasca! When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: Stellar route with a great variety of movement. Definitely bring nuts; I didn't and regretted it, as there are a couple of key placements. There are a couple of good handjam rests to place from, so you'll be able to find something with a single rack of cams from tips to #3 camalot.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Last Frontier (5.10b/c)
By: David Aguasca! When: May 8, 2015

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Comments: Great route if you're into scrappy chimney-and-crack climbing!

I second the no-helmet suggestion, but I didn't find tape to be necessary; jams are all pretty smooth.

A single rack to 3 is sufficient and the anchor is in situ as of this post date.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Olmsted Canyon Right : ... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Amen.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Spock's Brain (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: Second vote on the micronuts. I found the stances for gear placement to be pretty desperate, too.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge : Inhibitor (5.11a PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this again for the first time in 6 years...definitely not a gimme, but definitely not PG13. The only part that is hard to protect is the squeeze before the #5 placement, and if you fall out before placing it you probably have no business leading this route.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Yuk (5.9 PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Classic OW climbing. Would be even better if it got a little more traffic, as the top is kind of dirty. Also, hard for the grade!

Does not protect with cams unless you have Valley Giants; takes #3 and #4 big bros pretty well, though. I found a single #2 camalot placement in a horizontal on the right face.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Solarium : Magnum Opus (5.12a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: Slopey edges after a pockety crux, like charris said. The moves between bolts 2 and 4 are harder than any move on Super Best Friends.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Sunbeam Buttress : Morning Sun (5.11b)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I would say very bouldery, plus an awkward clip near the top.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Lost Ridge : Kaiju (5.11-)
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Holy COW...the composite picture blew my mind. Is it really only 30m to the roof at the top of the picture?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Worm Drive : Eight Ounces To Freedom (V9)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jan 13, 2015

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Comments: I didn't get the sit-up, but for me the crux was trying to ignore the feeling that my ankle was going to snap. Thoughts?


Location: NY : West Point
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Anyone know what the status is here? A friend of mine was told to leave the area by a police officer on a boat. Pretty weird.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Bridge of Khazad-Dm (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Climb up the slab trending leftwards, then dyno out the roof.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Rainbow Slabs : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: Excellent addition! Thanks!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: Great picture of an awesome dude


Location: NH : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: Jesus...placing cams on this is hard enough, you brought a bro??? Brave!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: epic butt shot


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : The Fox Area : The Fox (5.10+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Another vote for gear to 5". Also save some 0.5-2 camalot gear for the anchor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Shit Howdy : Risk Brothers Roof (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: The roof is the crux but don't downplay the start, as it's pretty strenuous off the deck and if you blow it you'll asshat your belayer. Protects well with 2 or 3 finger sized pieces and 2 hand-sized pieces. Also, a 0.75 or 0.5 camalot is good for a redirect above the roof to prevent your second from swinging.

No idea how to get onto the ledge from below, though. My friend and I ended up hiking around to the back and tunneling through between the main boulder and the enormous flake that is next... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I did this with Dan (above) mid-April 2014 and I agree with him, a 60m will link the two pitches for one awesome megapitch.

If you do this, it would be nice to have 2 #5 and 2 #6 camalots, as this is the size of the crack most of the way. Be sure to save one of either as they are the only thing that will protect in the crack before the traverse to the right-hand crack, where you can get a hand-sized piece. In addition, bring a heap of long slings, I had to back clean a bunch of t... more >>


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Crack (5.10b PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Samuel,

I added this route before I knew any better, and actually I was intending on climbing it while I lived in NH but never got around to it. From what I remember the PG13 is from when the route was first climbed, they didn't really have adequate pro for the main section, so instead some sketchy star drives or 1/4 inchers were used, which are in situ to this day.

If you climbed it, what did you think of it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : 1096 (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Go Freschl!!!!!


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