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Location: VA : Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O... : Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I protected this just fine with a new 5 camalot, 4 camalot, 2 camalot, and an old 3.5 camalot. Belay off the two bolt anchor at the top of The The, and be careful getting your rope stuck in the finger crack if you decide to TR it.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I assure you, no one was dropped, and the most dangerous thing we did that day was drive on Tioga Road...damn RVs!!!
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: CHAD TRY HARDER
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is this, a roof for ants?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dang, Alexey, I couldn't disagree more about pitch 1 on Blind Faith being the same difficulty as the Rostrum crux. It felt so hard to me! At least the rostrum crux has actual finger locks on it. P1 of of Blind Faith is so rattley.
But as far as P3 is concerned, I agree...it's definitely not harder than Twilight Zone or 10.96. It's most likely 5.10d, maybe just 5.10+. As far as the rack goes, if I do it again, I'm tempted to just leave the 6 and bring a couple big bros for those first 50 feet.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.
The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.
No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weird... more >>
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really like the fact that you can clearly see Chad on the ground, looking up.
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Location: NH : Cave Mountain : Roofer Madness (5.11+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really good. It would actually be classic if the rock was a little better and a little cleaner.
The hard parts are hands...flaring hands. Cool lip encounter.
Gear is mostly good, you just have to make sure every piece will hold. Otherwise you will probably land on your head. I placed mostly .75-4 Camalots. Doubles is a good idea. Again, you are very close to the ground/boulders.
Oh, yeah...and tape.
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, john, I got excited...I just never thought roofs like this existed in NH
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: OOOOOOOH MY GODWSAOWESNUICADSORIBL/'A,D8.R
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Found Ledge : The Main Cliff : Short But Sweet (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks like it could be beautiful
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo makes it look so sexy.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job, lee! In the video I continue as I do before, in the chimney...I use a small quartz crystal in a pocket and the mediocre finger jams above the head to scootch the last few feet sideways. How did you do it?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark, don't be discouraged...the Chicken is throwing a hand-fist stack right there, not a fist jam.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Big Bob's Big Wedge : Big Bob's Big Wedge (5.11 V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jan 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get.
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool picture, Matt.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Bridge of Khazad-Dûm (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Right hand crimp/right foot high-step micro-edge/left hand thumbs-down jam/left foot jam!"
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, route description edited. I welcome any more suggestions for improvements.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Mist Trail Boulders : ... : Cedar Eater (V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or you can do it the way that's pictured in the film, using your feet as jugs. To me that just felt very awkward.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Will,
Yeah, that's what the supertaco and the reid's book say. The middle (5.11b hands) is so much cooler though, IMO.
Alexey,
It's splitter. No crux, just sustained 6 C4 size. Some sections are too big for the 6 so I just had to push it through until I found somewhere it would fit again. Eventually it narrows to 5 C4, then 4 C4, then fists and hands, but this is only the top third of the pitch.
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Location: Christina Freschl : Offwidths so far... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a great picture. And I want to yell at you "Use the edges on the right! On the riiiiiight!"
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also pretty sure it's Blind Faith, not Blind Face
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even though the picture is quite blurry, I can tell you are working very, very hard, from the color of you head.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Lost Boulders
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have only been to the Cedar boulder and don't know the rest of the area. If anyone has a more interesting description, let me know, I will add it.
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