Comments: Dang, Alexey, I couldn't disagree more about pitch 1 on Blind Faith being the same difficulty as the Rostrum crux. It felt so hard to me! At least the rostrum crux has actual finger locks on it. P1 of of Blind Faith is so rattley.
But as far as P3 is concerned, I agree...it's definitely not harder than Twilight Zone or 10.96. It's most likely 5.10d, maybe just 5.10+. As far as the rack goes, if I do it again, I'm tempted to just leave the 6 and bring a couple big bros for those first 50 feet.
Comments: This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.
The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.
No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weird... more >>
Comments: Really good. It would actually be classic if the rock was a little better and a little cleaner.
The hard parts are hands...flaring hands. Cool lip encounter.
Gear is mostly good, you just have to make sure every piece will hold. Otherwise you will probably land on your head. I placed mostly .75-4 Camalots. Doubles is a good idea. Again, you are very close to the ground/boulders.
Comments: Nice job, lee! In the video I continue as I do before, in the chimney...I use a small quartz crystal in a pocket and the mediocre finger jams above the head to scootch the last few feet sideways. How did you do it?
Yeah, that's what the supertaco and the reid's book say. The middle (5.11b hands) is so much cooler though, IMO.
It's splitter. No crux, just sustained 6 C4 size. Some sections are too big for the 6 so I just had to push it through until I found somewhere it would fit again. Eventually it narrows to 5 C4, then 4 C4, then fists and hands, but this is only the top third of the pitch.
Comments: Serenity crack can be rapped with a single 70m rope (haven't tried a 60 yet) by rapping from P3 belay to P2 belay, then climber's left from the P2 belay. From there three raps will yet you back to the starting ledge. The old tat that had been added to for ages has been removed and replaced with some new cord and carabiners.
Comments: Such a rad climb. It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece?