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Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST


Member Since: May 7, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 10, 2014
Contact David Aguasca!


Point Rank: # 937
Total Points: 626
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 1
77 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (534) | Routes (15) | Areas (8) | Photos (46) | Comments (126) | Posts (161) | Stars (121) | Ratings (57)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Dang, Alexey, I couldn't disagree more about pitch 1 on Blind Faith being the same difficulty as the Rostrum crux. It felt so hard to me! At least the rostrum crux has actual finger locks on it. P1 of of Blind Faith is so rattley.

But as far as P3 is concerned, I agree...it's definitely not harder than Twilight Zone or 10.96. It's most likely 5.10d, maybe just 5.10+. As far as the rack goes, if I do it again, I'm tempted to just leave the 6 and bring a couple big bros for those first 50 feet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.

The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.

No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weird... more >>


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I really like the fact that you can clearly see Chad on the ground, looking up.


Location: NH : Cave Mountain : Roofer Madness (5.11+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Really good. It would actually be classic if the rock was a little better and a little cleaner.

The hard parts are hands...flaring hands. Cool lip encounter.

Gear is mostly good, you just have to make sure every piece will hold. Otherwise you will probably land on your head. I placed mostly .75-4 Camalots. Doubles is a good idea. Again, you are very close to the ground/boulders.

Oh, yeah...and tape.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: Sorry, john, I got excited...I just never thought roofs like this existed in NH


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: OOOOOOOH MY GODWSAOWESNUICADSORIBL/'A,D8.R


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Found Ledge : The Main Cliff : Short But Sweet (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: That looks like it could be beautiful


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This photo makes it look so sexy.


Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice job, lee! In the video I continue as I do before, in the chimney...I use a small quartz crystal in a pocket and the mediocre finger jams above the head to scootch the last few feet sideways. How did you do it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 17, 2012

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Comments: Mark, don't be discouraged...the Chicken is throwing a hand-fist stack right there, not a fist jam.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Big Bob's Big Wedge : Big Bob's Big Wedge (5.11 V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Cool picture, Matt.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Bridge of Khazad-Dm (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: "Right hand crimp/right foot high-step micro-edge/left hand thumbs-down jam/left foot jam!"


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: OK, route description edited. I welcome any more suggestions for improvements.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Mist Trail Boulders : ... : Cedar Eater (V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: Or you can do it the way that's pictured in the film, using your feet as jugs. To me that just felt very awkward.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Will,

Yeah, that's what the supertaco and the reid's book say. The middle (5.11b hands) is so much cooler though, IMO.

Alexey,

It's splitter. No crux, just sustained 6 C4 size. Some sections are too big for the 6 so I just had to push it through until I found somewhere it would fit again. Eventually it narrows to 5 C4, then 4 C4, then fists and hands, but this is only the top third of the pitch.


Location: Christina Freschl : Offwidths so far... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: That's a great picture. And I want to yell at you "Use the edges on the right! On the riiiiiight!"


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: Also pretty sure it's Blind Faith, not Blind Face


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 30, 2011

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Comments: Even though the picture is quite blurry, I can tell you are working very, very hard, from the color of you head.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Lost Boulders
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: I have only been to the Cedar boulder and don't know the rest of the area. If anyone has a more interesting description, let me know, I will add it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches Boulder Cracks : Space Invaders (5.12a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 28, 2011

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Comments: Here is how I did it. Your mileage may vary!





Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches Boulder Cracks : Space Invaders (5.12a) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 16, 2011

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Comments: This is soooooooooooooo last year's beta


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: Serenity crack can be rapped with a single 70m rope (haven't tried a 60 yet) by rapping from P3 belay to P2 belay, then climber's left from the P2 belay. From there three raps will yet you back to the starting ledge. The old tat that had been added to for ages has been removed and replaced with some new cord and carabiners.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : The North Face (5.11c)
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 6, 2011

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Comments: Such a rad climb. It's a bummer that someone felt it was necessary to put a bolt on the P6 offwidth. Does anyone know what the deal with it is? Was it a historical bolt that was replaced or someone just too lazy to bring a 5" piece?


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