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Oh no! OUT OF COFFEE! ALL IS LOST


Member Since: May 7, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 999
Total Points: 633
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 1
83 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David Aguasca! been climbing?










Contributions


All 568 | Routes 15 | Areas 8 | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 133 | Posts 161 | Stars 140 | Ratings 65
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Return To Forever (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: I did this with Dan (above) mid-April 2014 and I agree with him, a 60m will link the two pitches for one awesome megapitch.

If you do this, it would be nice to have 2 #5 and 2 #6 camalots, as this is the size of the crack most of the way. Be sure to save one of either as they are the only thing that will protect in the crack before the traverse to the right-hand crack, where you can get a hand-sized piece. In addition, bring a heap of long slings, I had to back clean a bunch of t... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : Black Crack (5.10b PG13)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: Samuel,

I added this route before I knew any better, and actually I was intending on climbing it while I lived in NH but never got around to it. From what I remember the PG13 is from when the route was first climbed, they didn't really have adequate pro for the main section, so instead some sketchy star drives or 1/4 inchers were used, which are in situ to this day.

If you climbed it, what did you think of it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : 1096 (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: Go Freschl!!!!!


Location: VA : Old Rag : Wall That Dreams Are Made O... : Banana Crack (5.11a)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 2, 2013

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Comments: I protected this just fine with a new 5 camalot, 4 camalot, 2 camalot, and an old 3.5 camalot. Belay off the two bolt anchor at the top of The The, and be careful getting your rope stuck in the finger crack if you decide to TR it.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Lord Caffeine (5.10d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I assure you, no one was dropped, and the most dangerous thing we did that day was drive on Tioga Road...damn RVs!!!


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 31, 2012

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Comments: CHAD TRY HARDER


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : The Monument : Desert Gold (5.13a PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Dec 5, 2012

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Comments: What is this, a roof for ants?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 26, 2012

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Comments: Dang, Alexey, I couldn't disagree more about pitch 1 on Blind Faith being the same difficulty as the Rostrum crux. It felt so hard to me! At least the rostrum crux has actual finger locks on it. P1 of of Blind Faith is so rattley.

But as far as P3 is concerned, I agree...it's definitely not harder than Twilight Zone or 10.96. It's most likely 5.10d, maybe just 5.10+. As far as the rack goes, if I do it again, I'm tempted to just leave the 6 and bring a couple big bros for those first 50 feet.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Rusty Wall : The Maneater (5.10d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 17, 2012

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Comments: This route is totally rad and would be a classic if it wasn't so close to the ground. Also the rock quality is good, but not great.

The protection until the lip is not stellar, though...I used a nearly tipped-out #6 Valley Giant (pretty close to a 6 C4), stuffed way up in there. Then, at the lip, an old #5 Camalot worked nicely. Past that a new 5 and 1 will get you to the top.

No need for bat-hanging, though, straight chimneying isn't too bad. The lip encounter is some of the weird... more >>


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Big Papa (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: So good. Powerful, steep, awkward feet.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 3, 2012

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Comments: I really like the fact that you can clearly see Chad on the ground, looking up.


Location: NH : Cave Mountain : Roofer Madness (5.11+)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: Really good. It would actually be classic if the rock was a little better and a little cleaner.

The hard parts are hands...flaring hands. Cool lip encounter.

Gear is mostly good, you just have to make sure every piece will hold. Otherwise you will probably land on your head. I placed mostly .75-4 Camalots. Doubles is a good idea. Again, you are very close to the ground/boulders.

Oh, yeah...and tape.


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 25, 2012

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Comments: Sorry, john, I got excited...I just never thought roofs like this existed in NH


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge Area : Sundown Ledge--Outback Clif... : The Raptor Roof (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: OOOOOOOH MY GODWSAOWESNUICADSORIBL/'A,D8.R


Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Found Ledge : The Main Cliff : Short But Sweet (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: That looks like it could be beautiful


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This photo makes it look so sexy.


Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : White Zombie (5.12d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Nice job, lee! In the video I continue as I do before, in the chimney...I use a small quartz crystal in a pocket and the mediocre finger jams above the head to scootch the last few feet sideways. How did you do it?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Generator Station : Generator Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Feb 17, 2012

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Comments: Mark, don't be discouraged...the Chicken is throwing a hand-fist stack right there, not a fist jam.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : Big Bob's Big Wedge : Big Bob's Big Wedge (5.11 V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Zig Zag Boulder : ... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Cool picture, Matt.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall : The Bridge of Khazad-Dm (5.11d) : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: "Right hand crimp/right foot high-step micro-edge/left hand thumbs-down jam/left foot jam!"


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: OK, route description edited. I welcome any more suggestions for improvements.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Mist Trail Boulders : ... : Cedar Eater (V5)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 22, 2011

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Comments: Or you can do it the way that's pictured in the film, using your feet as jugs. To me that just felt very awkward.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Rostrum : Blind Faith (5.11d)
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: Will,

Yeah, that's what the supertaco and the reid's book say. The middle (5.11b hands) is so much cooler though, IMO.

Alexey,

It's splitter. No crux, just sustained 6 C4 size. Some sections are too big for the 6 so I just had to push it through until I found somewhere it would fit again. Eventually it narrows to 5 C4, then 4 C4, then fists and hands, but this is only the top third of the pitch.


Location: Christina Freschl : Offwidths so far... : Photo
By: David Aguasca! When: Sep 19, 2011

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Comments: That's a great picture. And I want to yell at you "Use the edges on the right! On the riiiiiight!"


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