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With Nancy on Independence Monument


Member Since: Dec 11, 2001
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact David A. Turner


Point Rank: # 1,364
Total Points: 454
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has David A. Turner been climbing?










Contributions


All 530 | Routes 27 | Areas | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 51 | Posts 1 | Stars 237 | Ratings 188
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Kor's Door (5.9-)
By: David A. Turner When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: No need for complicated descent beta. Best exit strategy: One rope/one pack, Kiener's, Summit, N. Face, Camel, retrieve second pack stashed at bivy sites, car, beer.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Neon Lights (5.11a R)
By: David A. Turner When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: 2nd pitch: great pro (including a #3 1/2 Camalot), super fun, very steep.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psychosis (5.10d PG13)
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2012

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Comments: Vertigo roof is shorter, with one hard move. No one move is as hard on Psycho Direct, but the burly factor goes on much longer, and the pump starts to stack up. Canyon classic with 2nd pitch of 3 OF.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Cozyhang (5.7)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: One of the first ascentionists of this classic climb, Mike O'Brien, passed away within the last couple of years. I learned this about a week ago when on a road trip to El Rito, N.M., Henry Lester pulled out a collector's quality, Swiss-made, wood shafted, north wall hammer to pound in the tent stakes. After remarking on its beauty, Henry informed me that he had acquired it from Mike's estate.

I doubt that when Mike bought this hammer as a young man in the '50s for his alpine adventures that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 30, 2011

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Comments: 5.9 slab, to 5.11 cross through gastons, to cryptic crux, to slightly insecure, 10+, hanging arete. Well-protected. Super fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Wanker (5.12a/b)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 17, 2011

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Comments: First 1/2 of Wanker; video by Henry Lester.

Second 1/2 of Wanker.



Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Wanker (5.12a/b)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 5, 2011

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Comments: Several bolts added to the first pitch, now eight bolts + two for the anchor, make it well protected. This makes a great pitch on its own, and is 12a IMO. Not chipped, glued, or chained as far as I can tell.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: David A. Turner When: May 6, 2011

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Comments: One of the best catches of my climbing career occurred on the 4th pitch, and the climber wasn't even on my rope. Eons ago, Jim Ghiselli and I climbed the Doub-Griffith to arrive at the shared, last pitch ledge with Super Slab. Another team climbing SS had arrived first, so Jim & I set up our belay just below. While Jim led the also slightly dicey D-G, the unmistakeable sound of a falling climber grabbed my attention. The other party's leader hurtled straight towards me. She fell 35 feet, pa... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Marie Antoinette (5.10a R)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 14, 2010

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Comments: Might as well leave the rope in the pack, because it's only extra weight.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Smoke & Mirrors (5.10a)
By: David A. Turner When: Aug 14, 2010

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Comments: One fookin' rad F.A.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Robbin' the Hood (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Combining Robbin' the Hood with the upper section of Prince of Thieves creates a four star 5.11. Bring a shoulder runner for the first bolt at the break to delete rope drag.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 27, 2008

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Comments: Ken Trout showed us his one rope rappel today. A 70 meter rope is essential, but gets you down no worries. When you are at the top of the wall looking out to the east, rap off the anchor on the right, the one with the long chains. Head down the ramp as you normally would, but stop at the first anchors you come to, about 25 meters down. The second rap goes climber's left off the ramp. After about 20 meters, it's a short rap, you will find an anchor on a small slab. (Ken told us he scrounged... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Coffee Achievers (5.10+)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 27, 2008

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Comments: Pitches 2,3, & 4 rate 3 to 4 stars for quality; they are superlative. Pitch 1 is forgettable, and the last pitch is wet ( we combined pitches 5 & 6), but interesting with positive holds and reasonable pro. If you are not put off by conditions such as this, or even seek them out for the adventure, you will enjoy this route, as did I.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : ... : Photo
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Hey Eric. There's a good chance I'll be in Tucson this fall. I'll give you a call, and maybe we can hook up for some climbing. DT


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2008

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Comments: Yesterday, we used the descent described in the comments section of the Red Wall. It is a much better option than The Camel. The exposed downclimb at the top may be fifth class, but no harder than 5.2.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not aka The B... (5.11c)
By: David A. Turner When: May 26, 2008

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Comments: V2 or 3 at the bottom, 11a at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Apr 22, 2008

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Comments: Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 30, 2007

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Comments: Zot 2 Rewritten 2 Rebuffat = 4 star moderate.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bearcat Goes to Hollywood (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 17, 2007

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Comments: The first ascentionist, and current guide book author, upgraded this climb to 12a. I'll take it. One of those 11d/12a kind of climbs. Best slab pitch in Boulder County.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Wishbone (5.11b/c PG13)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 2, 2007

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Comments: The bird poop in the middle, the loose jug after the crux, and the contrived runout thereafter on uncleaned lichenous holds to the anchor will certainly keep the crowds away from a climb that otherwise has very good movement.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Arms Bazaar (5.12a R)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 27, 2007

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Comments: Low in its grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: David A. Turner When: May 28, 2006

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Comments: I thought the first pitch was worthy of two stars. However, the second pitch is one of the five best slab routes in the Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Sponge Bath (5.9+)
By: David A. Turner When: May 16, 2006

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Comments: Also an option to put gear in the handcrack, but climb to its right a bit, then jog back left at the overhang. Nice combination of gear and bolts. Sweet bit of steep face climbing at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Corn on the Cob (5.10)
By: David A. Turner When: May 16, 2006

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Comments: Nice addition to Cob. I'm 5'10" and no dyno required. Looking at the photo, I'm sure I used a different sequence. I appreciated that where good gear was available, no bolts were placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004

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Comments: If you carry a blue and green Alien, you can plug one of them and have great pro on Respite, rather than the long sling on the 3rd bolt of Jolt issue.


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