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With Nancy on Independence Monument


Member Since: Dec 11, 2001
Last Visit: Mar 11, 2014
Contact David A. Turner


Point Rank: # 1,270
Total Points: 454
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
12 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has David A. Turner been climbing?










Contributions


All (514) | Routes (27) | Areas | Photos (26) | Comments (54) | Posts (1) | Stars (225) | Ratings (181)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Higher Calling (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2007

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Comments: Best multi-pitch sport route within 1 hour of Boulder (not counting the approach)? Easily. A better multi-pitch sport route in Colorado? Hard to imagine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Tales of Power (5.11b)
By: David A. Turner When: May 28, 2006

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Comments: I thought the first pitch was worthy of two stars. However, the second pitch is one of the five best slab routes in the Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Sponge Bath (5.9+)
By: David A. Turner When: May 16, 2006

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Comments: Also an option to put gear in the handcrack, but climb to its right a bit, then jog back left at the overhang. Nice combination of gear and bolts. Sweet bit of steep face climbing at the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Corn on the Cob (5.10)
By: David A. Turner When: May 16, 2006

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Comments: Nice addition to Cob. I'm 5'10" and no dyno required. Looking at the photo, I'm sure I used a different sequence. I appreciated that where good gear was available, no bolts were placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Respite (5.11d)
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004

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Comments: If you carry a blue and green Alien, you can plug one of them and have great pro on Respite, rather than the long sling on the 3rd bolt of Jolt issue.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004

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Comments: Very tranquil location. There is a faint trail from Upper Animal that keeps the bushwack factor low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Zoo : Living with the Apes (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Nov 7, 2004

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Comments: While not essential, some may find a 1" to 2" cam below the first bolt to be helpful. Nice climbing with no raptor issues that I noticed, at least in the fall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Psycho Pigeon (5.11a)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 14, 2004

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Comments: In my opinion, the crux second pitch is about the same degree of difficulty as other classic Eldo face routes at this grade, eg. Wide Country. Well protected.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Angel's Way (5.2)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 10, 2004

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Comments: Sublime. In the same category as E. Face of the 3rd & E. Face/N. Ridge of the First, but more clandestine.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : What If You're Not? (5.7)
By: David A. Turner When: Sep 16, 2004

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Comments: The anchor on this route has been replaced with modern lowering bolts, and has been moved so there is no longer any rope drag over the edge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Center Left (V4)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 16, 2004

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Comments: I'd have to agree on the whole height thing here. At 5'9" this problem is doable for me more times than not; whereas the right problem is doable much fewer times.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : Beer Belly aka Beached Whal... (V6)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 16, 2004

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Comments: There is no way the sit start is only a little harder than the stand start, even with the knee bar. Although, next time I get on it I'm bringing a knee pad. One day last fall there was some dude who did the sit start into a traverse that took him all the way around Beer Barrel to the heinous problem on the NE corner. He blew off the very last move.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Bonzo (5.10)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 15, 2004

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Comments: Great climbing, great gear (except for the easier start). Nice variety to do Bonzo's jamming, with the face climbing of Chains of Command.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Directissima (5.10b)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 12, 2004

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Comments: Our rack seemed perfect. RPs to large stoppers. 3/4" Alien to 3.5 Camalot, with extra 1, 2, 3, 3.5 Camalots. This is a must do route. If you are considering doing a Chasm View Wall Route, do this one first. Way better than Red Dihedral. I have not done Royal Flush, but from watching others on it and talking with friends who have, it looks like one good pitch in a sea of ho-hum pitches.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Consilience (5.11b/c)
By: David A. Turner When: Jun 9, 2004

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Comments: Did this route again. This time, with the belayer climbing up a few feet, the climber is able to make it to the ledge with the very dead tree, about 20 feet off the deck. The options at this point are to down climb, or rappel off the dead snag (which we did). One bolt with a link at this ledge would be a better option. That way, the route could also be safely toproped by the second.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Consilience (5.11b/c)
By: David A. Turner When: Jun 7, 2004

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Comments: There may be only one other slab climb better than this in Boulder Canyon. That would be, in my opinion, Bearcat Goes to Hollywood. We had rope shortage with 60 meters, and had to leave a biner. It was worth it. Finding the route is straightforward. It is not very far up the gully between Black Widow and Vampire. The picture on the route description makes its location obvious. There is another route just to the left (Kate Moss?) that is unappealing in appearance.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : New Beginnings (5.11c)
By: David A. Turner When: May 12, 2004

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Comments: Great route, and the grade seems accurate to me. I thought the climb had an accumulation factor, i.e. the various cruxes began to take an accumulative toll on my forearms and psyche. Even though you could take a nap on the mantle ledge, psyching up for the crimp/small foothold traverse to the anchors takes some effort, particularly if you arrive at that point with an onsight happening.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Cold Snap (5.11b)
By: David A. Turner When: May 12, 2004

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Comments: If I could give this climb 1/2 a star, I would. The best climbing on the pitch is the last ten feet. Otherwise, I found it worthy to do only if you are somewhat desperate to do gear routes you haven't done yet, like me.

Dougald's beta about clipping the second bolt of Free Willie won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear in. Even climbing the directissima won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear. However, the gear is good when the opportunity first app... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 15, 2003

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Comments: Sport climbing: Yea!Sport Park:Boo!

I wonder if climbing at the Sport Park is even rock climbing. For example, I suspect that most climbers do not consider or refer to climbing in the gym as rock climbing. Are we really climbing on rock at the Sport Park as nature created that rock? Obviously the answer to my rhetorical question is "no". We are climbing on holds created by human beings, as we do in the gym. Therefore, I propose that we are not rock climbers when at the Sport Park, but out... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 14, 2003

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Comments: Peter: To go back to an earlier question you asked, I believe "getting" a route of this nature, as opposed to an aid route or an ice route for example, means no weighting of equipment on the way up. If that is the definition, then the route could be gotten in any manner of styles of ascent. Climbers have names for most of those styles, many of which I listed previously with the possible exception of "top rope". I think that with respect to the grade of a climb, that should be an objective ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 8, 2003

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Comments: Peter: Which one of the foregoing advantages that I listed (e.g. beta, prehung draws, etc.) do you think turned the route from a 12b into a 12a? Would that be true for every route or only this one? In other words, does beta, or some other combination of advantages, always drop a route's grade? Are there exceptions, and if so, what are they? Just looking for opinions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: David A. Turner When: Jul 2, 2003

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Comments: Just Wondering: Does a prior-knowledge, no-falls, first go, draws pre-hung, rope clipped through the second draw, ascent count as "getting" this route? If it counts, where in the continuum of style does it fall? Does said style have a name, like red-point, pink-point, brown-point, beta flash, as some possible choices? Great route; 12a.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not aka The B... (5.11c)
By: David A. Turner When: Jun 29, 2003

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Comments: I am the Chair of the Flatirons Climbing Council, and I believe that Patrick is correct. If it is just a matter of replacing a [hanger], no bureaucracy is required. If the bolt stud in the rock is need of replacement, OSMP must be contacted. They will generally issue a permit that same day. A number of bad bolts have been replaced including on the East Ridge of the Maiden, and Pentaprance on the Third. On another issue, there will be applications for the placement of brand new fixed anchor... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bruise Collector (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 21, 2002

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Comments: I thought the route was 12a and superb. A bit harder than Temptation Arete.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : Temptation Arete (5.12a)
By: David A. Turner When: Oct 21, 2002

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Comments: Pardon the intrusion into the spray, but does anyone else, besides me, believe this route might be less than 12b/c. I thought it was11d, possibly 12a.This route is on par with the best sport routes in the Boulder area. So is the project, at the time of this writing, to the left.


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