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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Driving in Duluth (5.11b R) : Photo
By: David A Groth When: May 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not much to add here beyond Dave Rone's comments. It is important that this argument stay within in the climbing community. Getting the park involved or trying to dictate park policy for one's own ends would jeopardize access.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Detox Mountain (5.12a)
By: David A Groth When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another Bechler masterpiece...I just belayed and did a snake dance.
Dave G
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Dyslexia (5.13b/c)
By: David A Groth When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Travis! It great to see these routes being done...The thing is really bouldery and you need some good sustained power to finish it. Very cool!
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Palisaid (5.13a)
By: David A Groth When: Apr 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We may need to start bickering over this again to get the right grade in the revised falcon guide
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff)
By: David A Groth When: Sep 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Travis
I did this problem back in the late 80's maybe it is v5? It is a good problem and pretty committing or at least that is how I remember it. I never gave it a name.
Dave Groth
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Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Superior Arete (5.12c)
By: David A Groth When: Apr 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a wild and complicated line also really fun. I just did the first TR about 5 years ago.
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Location: WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder : The Godfather (V4)
By: David A Groth When: Mar 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cleaned this boulder in 1989 and did the godfather the same day. I remember doing 5 or 6 problems on this boulder. I told Eric Z and John Sherman about it and they sent it on there stone crusade tour.
Dave Groth
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b)
By: David A Groth When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some off set cams work well by the second bolt as well if one is inclined to lead the route.
Dave Groth
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: David A Groth When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason
With out pins it is 5.12DX for sure!
Dave G
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: David A Groth When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason
I would like to chat at some point on the gear you used to lead it! What a tour de force!.....your ticking them all! It's a small and twisted club!
congrats
Dave G
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Vertigo
By: David A Groth When: May 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kurt
Maybe with it should stay PG-13 it would see more traffic, your call!
I have a nice photo of climbing the route from Camps crack i will scan and add.
It is good to see people out doing this route either way it is super classic.
Have you done Larry's route spooky? I added it awhile back.
Dave Groth
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Vertigo
By: David A Groth When: May 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kurt
I did the 13th ascent or at least was the 13th one to sign the register.I would have to check my photos but think it was 98. I think Matt Samet did the 14th. It saw a long dry spell of few ascents. I broke the old pin on a previous attempt and drove the shitty blade to bail. Came back later and did it clean in colder conditions. I will weigh in to keep the R rating. I thought the gear by the roll on the upper part was not great and was committing moving out to the crack.
I am not into the d... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Coup d'Etat (5.11b)
By: David A Groth When: May 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leo
I am not sure if it was Bill lenz or Bill Russel. But it was called Cow girl in the sand
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Son Of Great Chimney (5.11c)
By: David A Groth When: May 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The gear on the route is good but spaced out in places. Most of the old pins have cams and wire placements close. Just don't pass up any good gear placements and you will be fine. I would recommend putting in a few pieces at the crux in the center of the route.
Make sure you use the pin & large sideways wire placement at the start.
bring extra 1" to 2" cams
I think Pete's 1965 onsight lead good be one of best accomplishment at DL!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Bagatelle (5.12c/d R)
By: David A Groth When: May 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Pete Clevelands 1965 onsight lead of Son Of A Great Chimney is the most impressive thing done at DL. Every good climber who spends any time at DL should lead that route. Pretty cool!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Phlogiston (5.12d R)
By: David A Groth When: May 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fight started over the controversial use pins on DL leads. I drove 2 blades in the horizontal at the rest. Same gear as bagatelle.
As far as his name I think I will let sleeping dogs lay.
I think the real RAD lead yet to be done is cheap thrills!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Phlogiston (5.12d R)
By: David A Groth When: Apr 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve
I never did get the route clean! I fell about 3 feet from the top, I got in a good stopper & peeled. It is a long and good story.
During the assent a very verbal and almost violent fight broke out. An unnamed Madison climbing started ranting about ethics. Rich Bechler had to remove him from the base of the route. Meanwhile I was off the rest stance on really shitty gear trying to concentrate with all this shit going on at the base of the route. As soon as I got in some good gear I just lo... more >>
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Station 13 : Spooky, station 13 SE arete (5.12a/b PG13)
By: David A Groth When: Dec 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has any one else done this Larry Schafer classic?
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : Micro Putz (5.10a)
By: David A Groth When: Nov 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sport route with 3 bolts, 5.9 to 10a. two stars
FA Dave Groth 2001
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Meader Wall : Nihilist (5.12a/b)
By: David A Groth When: Nov 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nihilist has 6 bolts and should be given 3 stars for the area.FA Dave Groth ca 1999. The top has a good boulder problem on finger pockets.
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Mushroom Wall : Cockblocker (5.8)
By: David A Groth When: Nov 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Dave Groth, a really nice route at 5.8****
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Location: WI : Grandad's Bluff : Donkey Punch Wall : Donkey Punch (5.11d)
By: David A Groth When: Nov 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Dave Groth
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.10b PG13)
By: David A Groth When: Oct 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am pretty sure I did the first ascent(first lead that is) in 84. I asked around at that to make sure it was accurate.
Dave Groth
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : Whipping Boy (5.10d)
By: David A Groth When: Oct 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA done by John Scott in 1987
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : The Good, the Bad, and the ... (5.12a R)
By: David A Groth When: Oct 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First lead by John Scott in 1985. Exciting lead deserves an R rating.
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