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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R... : (03) Shipwrecked (5.12c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gotta agree with Mono. The respite you get after the low technical crux offers little in the way of meaningful recovery, especially given the pumpiness of the top section. Charging through the mid-section efficiently and enjoying its airy bolt spacing added to the experience for me rather than detracting. I have yet to hear somebody complain that they had too much energy left when they clipped the anchors after the final bulge.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Humpty Dumpty Wall : (02) Bambi (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lower part is exfoliating in big chunks. If you're going to climb this route, do NOT pull on any of the lighter colored rock to the left of the first bolt. Best to stick clip, as the footholds are suspect until you get beyond the first bolt. Belayer should stack the rope right up against the wall, so it doesn't get a huge rock crashing down on it, like ours did - and prepare to dodge. Some good pocket pulling through the mid section (for around 20 feet), then you have to deal with a very poorly ... more >>
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Walt's Wall Waltz (5.7 PG13)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm. I thought the top part was harder than 5.8. Oh well, guess it wouldn't hurt a strong 5.8 leader to get on the sharp end... In any case, it's a great warm-up, and a beautiful place to start your day.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Cobble Wobble (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The cobble up top to the left of the anchors is loose(!). This is the hold I use for clipping, and from the amount of chalk on it, seems like everybody else does, too. I pulled hard on it and couldn't get it to pry loose, but if you shake it, it definitely rattles. I drew an "X" on it with chalk, but this will wash off in the next rain/snow storm. Beware!
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : (07) Stoker (5.12b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! I wasn't on it before the hold(s) in question broke, but I think I found the de-jugged spot Lee mentioned, near the last bolt... now there's just a crappy, slopey pinch. I thought it was the redpoint crux. You'll need good footwork and endurance to get you through with enough reserve for the final bit of steep climbing to the anchors.
I wouldn't be overly concerned about choss on this route, despite the history of broken holds. The holds along the bolt line (and I think all of the c... more >>
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ... : (19) Glenda (5.12a/b) : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo!
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ... : (14) Once Upon a Time (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sustained (no snooze ledge, unless you traverse off route), varied climbing on steep rock with good holds. Bottom section provides an interesting contrast to typical Datil climbing, and there's a bit of a runout on big pockets at the end. If you happened to come off, you'd have a whole lot of fun. What more could you want from a tower moderate?
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : (03) Sleeping Beauty (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good, for a butt shot. Gives a sense of what it feels like to be on the climb...
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : (03) Sleeping Beauty (5.11c) : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pic - well exposed, and gives a good sense of the climb.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Sleeping Beauty Wall : (02) Tarred and Feathered (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This and Cheshire Cat make for great warmups
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup, that's by far the best way up P3.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Three Gun (Tres Pistolas) : Crystal Ship and Glass Hous... : Broken Glass Traverse (V5)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is the problem I'm thinking of (rating seems right), it's one of my favorite foothills problems. We started it on a good matched hold on the right blunt arete (almost beneath the big balanced boulder) --> low technical traverse left --> transition into the straight-up (and easier) climbing. Top out is easy but exciting.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Season is all through the fall and spring. Particularly good in the fall, when temps are perfect, winds low, and leaves turning.Fall's particulaly good for sending.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello...Randy? Ground control to Randy Eisler... Got some nice new Fixe sport anchors, got a drill, got time on my hands. If you don't mind increased traffic on your route and a milling herd of pesky moderate climbers running around the base with shit-eating grins, send in your moral support for addition of a new, lower anchor. Promise we'll leave your upper anchor be.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (15) Blonde Ambition (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I'd consider this a good 11a. The crack is just too obvious and tempting to ignore, and I think it's the more natural line. Going left into the skittery feet and awkward handholds down low seems rather contrived to me. Mid-section climbs oh so nice.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When approaching the crag from the lower (pump house) parking, head down to the floor of the main Diablo canyon wash. Turn right down the wash (toward the Rio Grande), and go approximately 1/8 mile. You'll see the left bank rise up in small mud cliffs ahead, with a few small rubbly washes dumping in. Just before the mud cliffs, look for 2 medium-sized cottonwood trees growing on the left bank (coxcomb side), with branches reaching over the wash, nearly touching the sand. Continue past these abou... more >>
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : (08) Casada Noodle Soup (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. Really well bolted, on quality rock. Thanks to the bolters for treating us all to quality climbing, and splurging on excellent anchors!
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Cockscomb Crag : Chicken Little Area : (10) The Chicken (5.10a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left anchor spins - could use a tighten-down. Rock seems fractured there, maybe the bolt ought to be replaced?
Fun route!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a good deal on Fixe sport anchors:
http://www.northernmountain.com/detail/540505
A bit klunky and obvious from below, but these puppies will make cleaning the anchor quick and safe. Any better ideas?
- Dave
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : (12) Manhattan (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the anchor overhaul! Great job! I feel SO much better climbing this route now, knowing that I won't have to risk another epic dealing with a stuck rope!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, you weren't supposed to tell anybody about the ledge! I was going to write an article about the bolt placement for Climbing mag, complete with a teetering bat hook, rope-eating hanta-infested mice, and dive-bombing peregrines.
Seriously, I don't have any particular plan for bolt drilling yet, and I'm hoping to talk to Randy before going ahead. I think he authored a great route (which is, by the way, sustained and plenty long enough without the top bit), and I'll leave the original anchor a... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I was planning to put the bolt in on lead, using a hand drill the old-fashioned way. A tribute to John Bachar. Power drills are for wussies. By the way, Mike, congrats on your Climbing mag photo. Hopefully I'll make it up there soon to sample some of your new routes.
- *Note - this comment was written in response to a post that once existed, but has been removed (mysterious Taos climber/recluse - you know the type). Anyhow, it's not as random as it seems.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quick poll for anybody interested: I'd like to put in a new anchor for "Patchwork" ("Far Side II" area) at what's currently the last bolt. Will avoid the final 8 feet of awkward and potentially dangerous climbing off the big bivvy ledge to reach the current anchor. I don't have contact info for Randy Eisler (listed as the first ascentionist, and I'm assuming he's also the bolter...). If I don't hear back from someone soon, I'm just going to do it, because it's a quality climb (aside from the fin... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (15) Blonde Ambition (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used the crack to the right near the start. Maybe I'm chicken, but at least I'm not chicken hamburger. Another Palomas cheese-grater fest.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd like to recant my last comment about not wanting to go so far as to change the anchor. Just climbed the route again today - it really is as good as I remember it (the choss band has cleaned up nicely, and is now quite solid); however, the finish is still completely annoying. I will gladly place a second bolt beside the last bolt before the anchor (the one you can reach up and clip from the huge ledge), and add lowering clips. Doesn't look like Randy Eisler is on Mtn Project. Anybod... more >>
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