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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney
By: Dave Loring When: Jan 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can easily (well, maybe not easily) do the East Face, East Butt, or Mountaineer's Route in a day. IF (big if) you know the approach to Iceberg Lake. You'll be doing it in the dark. Early season the creek is high and you'll be crossing it. The trail may be running with water. You will get wet. You may get soaked.
Like the man said, buy the Supertaco. The directions are excellent. Scope the approach in daylight if you've never done it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Tower (5.9)
By: Dave Loring When: May 7, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. I thought the 10a crux was on the upper half of the route, pulling onto the face then up into the awkward right-facing corner.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : AAArete (5.10b)
By: Dave Loring When: Mar 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is just weird. It's hard to tell which side of the arete you are supposed to climb. The bolts are on the left, but holds seem to pull you right, almost out of reach at one point.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Boy's World (5.8)
By: Dave Loring When: Mar 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this today. 5.8? No way. 5.6 or .7 maybe - and one or two moves at that. My partner placed two pieces, and one of them seemed iffy. Didn't need more than that.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall : Climb of the Anonymous Cowa... (5.11-)
By: Dave Loring When: Feb 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have you done it, genius?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Bihedral Arete (5.10a)
By: Dave Loring When: Apr 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route last week. While its good by BC standards, I'd hardly call it classic. And 10a is way overrated IMHO. The crux on the first pitch is a high step and crank from good holds on the corner. Crux moves on the second pitch are thin and a little balancy, but not that bad.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Cornered (5.9)
By: Dave Loring When: Apr 17, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: In Joshua Tree it would be a .6
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Notchtop : Finding Religion on the Spi... (5.10 R)
By: Dave Loring When: Jan 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you get to take credit for a new route if you follow Marshall's advice? "Yeah, that look's like the way to go." Riiiight.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Lion's Den : Bride (5.7)
By: Dave Loring When: Jan 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note: The first ascent of this route was made by Kris Whorton. Named as it was climbed on the first anniversery to her hubby Randy.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Schoolhouse Rock : Unknown Crack (5.4)
By: Dave Loring When: Feb 7, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was one of the ones on "practice slabs" or "Kindergarten Slab" below School Rock.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Dave Loring When: Nov 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with all your comments. My partner and I were trying to move quickly, and weren't spending a whole lot of time searching for the easiest route around things. We did look for easier ways, and got cliffed a couple times, but in general took the most obvious, direct lines. As I noted, at the "5.4" section, we popped up right at the rap slings, and I don't believe we missed any 4th class stuff in getting there. May have, but I don't really know now. Obviously conditions and routefinding... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Bell Cord Couloir
By: Dave Loring When: Nov 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doh. That would be an axe. Heh heh. I suppose you could use a club, too.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : James Peak : Shooting Star
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a classic. I did it in early June this year, in the heat wave. A mite slushy at the top, which made the last 100' a bit challenging in places getting over chockstones and swimming up the couloir and such, but otherwise it was a stellar climb. The face was shedding some rock, too. Super Star still held a cornice. Easy alpine day from the upper Mammoth Gulch TH.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Iron Side Wall : Baby Doe (5.8)
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this back in August. It really is a good warm-up, and a decent route - deserves at least one star.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Oil Pan Hook Shot (5.11a/b)
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 28, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the above comment - the crux is made way easier if you're tall (my 6'4" buddy reached past the lieback seam and just grabbed the jug). Two one-move wonders with easy climbing in the middle.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Mosquito Burrito (5.8)
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating pretty much depends on the line you decide to take and how much of the seam you decide to use. My buddy thought the 10a cruxes were near the last bolt and just below the ledge based on the line he took. Based on what I did I thought it was 9+ish, just below the ledge.It's all a matter of degrees.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bowling Ball and Chain (5.10a/b)
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 24, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely questioned the intensions of the FAist on this route. Other than pulling through the bulge at the second bolt, there was nothing worthwhile about it. Up above, it wandered aimlessly, entered the gully, then climbed the arete with a ledge and dirt for feet, and having to reach way around the corner to get to the hand holds. It could have been designed much better to create a better route, in my opinion, or left out all together.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Rubber Chicken (5.10d)
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the above comment. Its more sustained, fluid, and enoyable. i don't think any one move was harder than the crux on Chicken Delight, though the overall sequence was tricky. Footwork and balance was the key. Good route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Delight (5.10c)
By: Dave Loring When: Oct 15, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not the worst route on the rock, but other than the crux reach/undercling, its kind of like doing the same move over and over....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Shape Shifters (5.9)
By: Dave Loring When: Sep 16, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a one move wonder.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Black Slab : Black Slab Left (5.9-)
By: Dave Loring When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: www.aspenclimbingguides.com/favorites/outlook_rock.htm has a map and some additional access beta.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Black Slab : Black Slab Right (5.9+)
By: Dave Loring When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: See Aspen Climbing Guides site for a map and additional access beta:http://www.aspenclimbingguides.com/favorites/outlook_rock.ht>>>>>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Catacomb : Gravestone (5.7)
By: Dave Loring When: Aug 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.7 my ass. My partner and I thought it was 5.8/8+. It's as hard, if not harder than Headstones (5.8) - the route to the right, up the hill, and almost as hard as the Mausoleum, to the left. Great route, though.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak : Kelso Ridge
By: Dave Loring When: Jul 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since we're on the topic ... I may have to head up for a shot at a sub 2:30 time. was around 3:00 last fall, getting a workout and shooting sunrise photos before grad classes. Anyone want to join me?
The most dangerous moments I've had in the hills are, yes, on approaches and descents, or when other morons aren't paying attention and are knocking loose crap down on me.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Dave Loring When: Jun 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: People's Choice is definitely one of the best sport routes in Colorado. I dig the first slab pitch - 10a-ish is probably right. Stemming and pulling up the crack in the upper dihedral is a blast too. Only at Sitting Bull Falls and Enchanted Tower in New Mexico have I had this much fun sport climbing!
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