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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Dave Levy When: Feb 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's another thought. How would the average Joe Climber know that the Sundevil has gone hammerless if he doesn't have a computer and access to this web site? The cover of Bjornstad's Desert Rock III shows some dude hammering away on the Sundevil, and the route is not described as hammerless.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Dave Levy When: Dec 15, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't necessarily compare this route to Ancient Art's Corkscrew Summit via the Stolen Chimney with respect to length. Ancient Art couldn't be more than 250 feet, given that you can rappel to the ground from the large ledge aboe the chimney pitch with two 60m ropes.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: Dave Levy When: Nov 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comment regarding Luke and Andrew's ascent: I don't remember it being necessary to sling the bush (as shown in your photo)and subject it to the forces of jugging. Sure, in moments of desperation we sometimes need to grab onto bushes or sling them for pro, but climbers please show a little respect to the fragile desert vegetation and don't use bushes and trees as fixed gear if it's not needed. Thanks.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: Dave Levy When: Oct 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael: More simply stated, you only need a single No. 5 Camalot or equivalent as listed in the gear description above. Most of what Dan said is correct, note that there is only one bolt on Pitch 2.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: Dave Levy When: Mar 24, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hauling was the most work for me, considering I only weigh in at 125 pounds. Generally, hauling was straightforward, although the bag needed a little help in the chimneys and especially up the slabs, where hauling was more like having a wrestling match with a dead overweight pig.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: Dave Levy When: Mar 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure if the route was originally named "Tricks of the Trade" or "Tricks of the Tramp", but I have commonly seen it referred to as "Tricks of the Tramp". Most people simply call it "Tricks". I forgot to mention in the route description that the last 2 pitches go at 5.7 and 5.10+/5.11a, respectively.
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