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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Big Bend Bouldering Area
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Trail Side Wall : Lower Traverse (V3)
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great traverse with good body positions and interesting feet. You can make it as hard as you want and as long as you want. The wall runs for about 100 feet, but the best part is the first 20ft of the lower part.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Trail Side Wall
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great little known spot to get away from the crowds and play around on an excellent little wall. The rock is good, the moves challenging and scenery spectacular! Enjoy
-D
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Trail Side Wall : Lower Traverse (V3)
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: One time while I was bouldering here, I heard what sounded like a drum beating in the distance. It kept getting closer and closer. I wasn't sure what it was, just as my curiosity couldn't take it anymore, this monk wearing Nike running shoes and brown robe, comes jogging down Flagstaff Trail right past me, beating a drum and chanting. We exchanged pleasantries like this was totally normal and both continued with our respective means of quieting the spirit and focusing the body. Only in Boulder!... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Center Left (V4)
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Make sure you have a spotter and a crash pad when you reach up for the crystal. I didn't and landed right on my heel, I think I cracked the bone. Anyways, Center Left doesn't play well those that are 6 ft tall. It may have been V3 back before the crowds and erosion, but I think it's closer to V4.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Lower Finger Direct (5.10+ X)
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best TRs in GOG! As you're rapping from the chains it looks pretty bleak and blank, but as you start climbing you really get to know GOG sandstone, where holds are, how to use them, and how to trust the edges. Climbing the Direct after either the Ramp or the Traverse makes for a wonderful afternoon. You could probably do all three if other climbers aren't around. A great confidence builder! I would agree with the .10b/c rating proposed earlier. Definitely not .10-, maybe if yo... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Finger Ramp (5.7)
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I haven't climbed this route since 2000, so I am going off previous posts and comments on this site. This was my first lead long before the feel good bolts were put in! I disagree with the retro bolt, it was just unnecessary! Yea, it's a little runout to the first bolt, but how many times has this climb been completed vs how many accidents/falls have occurred in the same period of time? The climb used to done with 4 bolts that were all right hand clips. Putting pro in the crack is a good idea, b... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Ute Valley Park
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.
-D
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's the skinny on the South face route. It follows a broad couloir for one mile straight up the side of Quandary. There isn't an actual trail and it's really better as a snow route, but if you want to get up quick and fast and have some fun route finding, then this is the best way to the summit. You can descend either the tourist highway down the east ridgeline and hitch back to the reservoir or the trail to the west, but I wouldn't recommend descending the couloir.
-D
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Flagstaff is a great place to find "new" problems, especially if you have been bouldering for a while. Now I don't mean FA's, those are few and far between. I am talking about walking that extra little bit to the boulder you keep seeing just off the road, down the hill, or across the valley. Get off the beaten path, walking on hard surfaces of course, and explore! Usually it doesn't take too long to find something up on Flagstaff that will intrigue you for weeks. The best part is you tell your b... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Blowouts Area
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Blowouts Area is the bouldering destination in GOG! The hike to get there is worth the walk. Start out just north of the base of Cowboy Boot Crack and follow the base of NGR, avoiding hopping the fence from the sidewalk as the area is under reclamation. Unlike the Winter Wall, you are secluded from the tourons, protected from the rain (the base almost never sees precip), and there is considerably less dust and sand on the holds. The ground-level traverse is the obvious problem, but look up, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : The Snake Pit Area
By: Dave Jackson When: Mar 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Snake Pits are the best place to go bouldering in GOG to get away from the crowds. Late Spring is the best time as the valley doesn't get too humid and the sun doesn't shine directly on them at sunset. Most climbers congregate at the first boulder, which arguably has the best problems and rock. Grades range from V0 to I think V9. There is a wicked V5 that pulls on slopers to gain a pathetic gaston, finishing at the eye level jug. The rock can be sharp in the dark areas, but nothing a good se... more >>
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