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Location: AZ : The Dry Canyon : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Ummmm.....did both go to the hospital?
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Location: AZ : McDowell Mountains : Majestic Mcdowell wall
By: Dave Daly When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Guys.....one way to solve this:
Post beta in the comment senction since this slacker can't read simple directions.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : unknown (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob -
Yep, that route on the backside of the West Penguin 'felt' 5.7. Follows up a blunt arete, passing 4 bolts to a chained 2-bolt anchor (no shuts.....just chains). Could be a Strausman route.
On a similar note, there is an unfinished route on the north side of the East Penguin. Only 2 bolts then NOTHING. Got on top of the West Penguin and looked for possible anchors. NADA! When I got on it, there was bail biner on it already. Felt like 5.8+/5.9- as I was preparing to pass above the 2nd bolt... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Elephantiasis (5.10 PG13)
By: Dave Daly When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Another member of the FA crew was Pat Brennan.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : MD 20/20 (5.9 R)
By: Dave Daly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. A bit spooky after the 3rd bolt. Did this as the last route of the day...just as it started to rain! =O
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Hartford (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine route. Fun little mantle after clipping the 2nd bolt.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Additionally, there is a line of bolts on the face above after the start of pitch #2. They're positioned to the left of the large crack/flake for Boston. First bolt is 15' off the ground. They look "newish". 'Newark' (5.9R) is 8' to the left of those bolts. No topo supports what this variation is. We climbed them as a variation to Boston (instead of climbing the crack/flake). Felt 5.9-.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall : Boston (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Since the posting of this route page, Boston has since been 'retr-bolted'. Was surprised to see a bolt on the opening 10' before the large overlap/roof.....then another bolt just over the lip of the overlap. Couldn't tell what the manufactured bolt/hanger combo was....hex wrench bolt heads (epoxied) with foreign hangers.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Devil's Slide : Mark of the Beast (5.8+)
By: Dave Daly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. Solid 5.8 moves at the start of Pitch #2. After completing the 2nd pitch, ended up going out far right for the 2nd pitch of Dome Driver and Boston to create a fun 3rd pitch link up on MOTB.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for adding the photo Chris.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Western Wall Area : ... : Pangborn (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dunno what folks are thinking when it comes to the terrain on Pangborn compared to Alabama Hills Gang. Pangborn clearly has pretty positive holds throughout the route, even at the crux. The first 35' feet of AHG is certainly tougher; clean slab with crimpy small holes for holds.
Pangborn is a beautiful route but AHG is clearly the tougher route IMO.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : El Gancho (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, wow.....we agree Chris!! (teehee). Yep, tough .10b moves through the shallow crack section. Almost blew the clip at bolt #3.....was getting a bit pumped. All of Holcomb heard my whimpering that day!
Nice route and best one on the wall!!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : Snelled Hook (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worked the direct start to the jug hold. Yep, pretty reachy....even for a guy who is 6'1"! Prolly makes it 5.9 going direct.
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : Mardi Gras (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris....seriously, 5.9?? The obvious crux is passing the 3rd bolt while pulling moves into the .10a/b range. Been on Richochet and a few others of yours. I'll stick with .10a/b on this one.
Nice route dood!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Pinnacles North : Voodoo Garden : ... : Forfeit The Bail (5.10a/b)
By: Dave Daly When: Jul 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My personal opinion (of course) is that the route is a bit more physical than technical. The crossover moves required to transition to the main face are....well, tough!! One of the toughest ".10a" moves I've ever encountered. And getting off the deck and onto the ramp would be a tough chore for those shorter than 5'9".
Been on some other B.S. and P.P routes throughout San Berdew hills....this one checks in at above their norm for rating a .10a. Certainly a very solid 5.10 climb.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone has been busy. Save that eastern corner of the Western Penguin for me. ;)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Left Sid... : Blown Out (5.10d)
By: Dave Daly When: Apr 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mmmm....disagee a bit with the page author on the runout sections. Could use a bolt after the first bolt too!
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Location: Dave Daly : Life Beyond The Arm Chair : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo credit to Bruce Bindner
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Penguello (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did you forget who pointed out the route and was your belay slave? Give a brother credit where credit is due! ;)
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun crack climb! So sad its so short. :( Considering some feel this route is "soft" 5.8, I personnally felt it was harder than climbs like 'Dappled Mare'. Even so, I had just finished 'Bird On a Wire' (btw, never did feel the .10a moves come into play) and drove over to Hidden Tower right afterward, feeling 'Sail Away' was a tougher 5.8. JMO.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : The Swift (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the direct start (perhaps 5.8-) and rejoined the route as it traverses in from the left. Nice route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done this in 2 pitches with 60m rope (last remaining bit is 4th/low 5th). As for the traverse, protect the second midway then place a piece (with long runner) about the same height as the belay as you head up the left facing corner. Hardly got any rope drag and my second felt well protected. I felt the second pitch was just as fun as the first. Folks who'd rather go 'Roan's Way' (did it already) don't know what they are missing! Good stuff!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used to do "laps" on this one.....9 laps in one afternoon. Did a car-to-car from the Hang Glider Slab: 20 min 12 seconds.
Oh, and for those interested......Mark Hammond (lives in Fresno) did one of the first ascents using roller skates. Still active (63 years young) and member of the SSCA.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Next time you use someone elses photo......be polite and ask first! By the FAQ standards posted to www.summitpost.org, you're in violation of copyright standards.
Any questions, email or PM me.
Dave Daly
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Tollhouse Rock : Squarenail
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This (Squarenail) should be set as a seperate area in the Sierra Foothills region.
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