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 ADVANCED
"Driftwood" direct V6/7. Also known as the "Skinner Problem" and "Shark's Tooth." Starts on two tiny matched crimps at chest height. Gets slightly easier as you go, but scarier. Bring plenty of pads and spotters, as the shelf beneath is narrow and drops away. <br />


Member Since: May 15, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Dave Wachter


Point Rank: # 769
Total Points: 832
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dave Wachter been climbing?










Contributions


All 374 | Routes 32 | Areas 8 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 137 | Posts 20 | Stars 104 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Dec 12, 2008

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Comments: Yeah, I sliced into the pad of a finger on my left hand, and had little bruises on several other fingertips. Climbing was so engrossing I didn't notice the pain until I got back to the ground, though. Another funky Socorro classic! I'm upping the ante on stars.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Duran Duran (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Nov 8, 2008

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Comments: Great route. 3 separate bouldery sections, with a no-hands rest between the first and second. Felt a bit harder than 12a, and a lot harder than 12a when in full sun (upper cruxes involve pulling through slopers). The sun hits the route at about noon in mid-fall, so get an early start and call ahead for your Burrito Tyme order.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : Clast Action (5.9)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Varied and fun climbing, from slabby to slightly overhanging. Poorly bolted, though, especially for a 5.9 leader. There are a couple of serious runouts in the mid-section where it would be possible to bust your ankles on a ledge.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Walking the Plank (aka The ... (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route. Missed that arm-dangler jug, DTP, but enough good shakeouts along the way to pull through the high crux. I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Turkey Baster (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: not well bolted for a 5.10 leader. Ankle breakers possible.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Unknown (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jul 12, 2008

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Comments: Chossy and sharp; little sustained interesting climbing; poorly placed second bolt. No stars.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Strong Arm With the Lads (5.11a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 3, 2008

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Comments: Great route. Steep and juggy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Stone Ground (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: Hard if you're short.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Calling All Karmas (5.12a/b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: Short, but bouldery and fun. Barn-doory clips.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : Blockade (5.10a)
By: Dave Wachter When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Kind of funky up the corner. Plenty of choss, some of it glued. I'd call it hard 5.10 (not 5.10-), but hey, it's Big Block.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Shane (5.10-)
By: Dave Wachter When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Best route on the wall, fairly graded. Not too reachy.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Left Route (5.9+)
By: Dave Wachter When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Actually harder than the route just to the right (especially the start, which is NEVER 5.9+), and much poorer quality. Best to skip it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Nice place for a pee... Wonder if anybody will notice?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Feel the jug!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Manic Crack (aka Left Twin ... (5.11)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Super sweet finger crack with nice feet and unlimited gear placements. Nice hand jam rest halfway up, one size fits all. I agree that the rating is too generous (10+ or 11- more like it). Again! Again!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11b/c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Awesome arete climbing. Difficult onsight from the last bolt to the anchors, but unless you're under 5'8", you shouldn't have to use any less-than-sinker pockets. Full credit stars.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F... (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: An interesting and challenging climb. After clambering onto the starting shelf, you get 3 bolts of excellent sustained 5.11-. Sequency, but mostly sinker holds with a couple of decent shakes. From there it's a bolt and a half of difficult climbing that is essentially one long boulder problem with a clip in the middle - long reaches between small pockets and edges, technical feet, and a couple of big or desperately thin moves off crappy holds. By the time you latch the finishing ledge, you almost... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: Safe lead? There's a difference between safe lead and overbolted. If you're not getting into the 5.11 grade 'cause you're scared of leader falls, this is your route, baby. Climbs well. Last bolt entirely unnecessary.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Double Vision / Ream Dream (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: Really nice climbing on small pockets with a wicked increasing angle up top. Do keep off the arete - the climbing up the face is great, and no scary fall.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Face Off (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: Really really cool crux section getting up to the pocketed face. Lots of stars from me.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : Lonesome Dove (5.9+)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: My favorite warm-up. If you're new to Palomas, it's worth the trek out not only for the climb, but for the quality hike and overview of the crag.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : Patchwork (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: I agree that this is a good route, with interesting and varied climbing. But the finish is 8 feet of ridiculous, awkward climbing off a ledge big enough to host a kegger, making a mockery of an otherwise sustained high-quality climb. I wouldn't go so far as to put in a new set of anchors below the ledge, but I'd certainly clip and lower off them if somebody else did.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (05) The Transition Zone : Have Slab Will Travel (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: You either love this climb or hate it. Sometimes I love it and sometimes I hate it (when it kicks my ass, which it periodically does). Awkward and technical.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (05) The Transition Zone : Rode Hard (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: As good as any 5.11 in New Mexico! When you reach the anchors (at least 50ft, though I'll agree it's no rope-stretcher) you won't likely find yourself needing more. Steep and juggy, to steep and technical, to just over vertical and technical. Climbs like a 12a, and could get that rating at some crags. Can get a tenuous rest or two after the roof crux, but this route is characterized by sustained difficult climbing.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (01) The Entrance : Nature of the Beast (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 2, 2008

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Comments: Awesome climb. Just be careful not to get hanta virus or rabies from the rat and bat shit in the cave. Trad technique helps a lot up top, but can crimp through a tricky sequence without any jams if you prefer. I can attest that a fall from near the anchors is clean, if exciting (it's steeper than it looks up there). A yellow camalot in the obvious wide hand crack makes the top less committing, but increases the pump, especially if you don't pre-place the cam.


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