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Rock Climbing Photo: "Driftwood" direct V6/7. Also known as t...


Member Since: May 15, 2006
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Dave Wachter

Point Rank: # 881
Total Points: 838
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dave Wachter been climbing?










Contributions


All 385 | Routes 32 | Areas 8 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 143 | Posts 22 | Stars 106 | Ratings 23
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Feb 15, 2009

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Comments: That's not a great guidebook for anywhere. The online guide (see link, above) is way better, and free!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : SideKick (5.11a PG13)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jan 27, 2009

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Comments: Great route, makes a good warm-up if you want to climb at the entrance area without walking too far in. Technical feet and insecure palming between the first and second bolts (that's where you plug in the green or purple camalot, which IS necessary for avoiding potential ground-fall), then steep but pretty juggy to the top. Booster rock at the base for short people to get on.
Jackson (Falcon Guide to NM) calls this climb 10c and recommends avoiding it. Two comments: 1) It's not 10c - don't get o... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Hurt Me Not (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jan 2, 2009

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Comments: I agree with DTP. Worth doing for the short interesting crux.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Juckets & Bugs (5.10a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jan 2, 2009

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Comments: I love this route as a warm-up, despite the fact that the climbing is not sustained. Gets your head on straight, with delicate footwork at the bottom, and sequency middle/top. I think the middle and upper cruxes are hard for the grade. Although it's not pumpy once you know the sequences, it can be very pumpy as an on-sight (especially if you climb up and down and up and down at the last bolt, like most people do).


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Captain Blueberry (5.11a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jan 2, 2009

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Comments: Fun climbing, though the route would be better if it were more sustained. For some odd reason the person who bolted this route seemed to think that running out the bolt after the easy part (and making the clip a little bit awkward at that!) could somehow compensate for the unsustained nature of the climbing.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Bob Marley Meets Master Gan... (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Dec 12, 2008

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Comments: Really, really fun. Like Little Caterpillar, it's an amazingly good route considering how short it is. Can climb this to the finishing ledge, take a nap, then continue up from the left end of the ledge to the top of Duran Duran for an exciting short addition (probably 11+ variation). Can hang draws on Duran Duran from there if you're inclined.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Dec 12, 2008

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Comments: Yeah, I sliced into the pad of a finger on my left hand, and had little bruises on several other fingertips. Climbing was so engrossing I didn't notice the pain until I got back to the ground, though. Another funky Socorro classic! I'm upping the ante on stars.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall AKA ... : Duran Duran (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Nov 8, 2008

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Comments: Great route. 3 separate bouldery sections, with a no-hands rest between the first and second. Felt a bit harder than 12a, and a lot harder than 12a when in full sun (upper cruxes involve pulling through slopers). The sun hits the route at about noon in mid-fall, so get an early start and call ahead for your Burrito Tyme order.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : Clast Action (5.9)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Varied and fun climbing, from slabby to slightly overhanging. Poorly bolted, though, especially for a 5.9 leader. There are a couple of serious runouts in the mid-section where it would be possible to bust your ankles on a ledge.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Walking the Plank (aka The ... (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route. Missed that arm-dangler jug, DTP, but enough good shakeouts along the way to pull through the high crux. I hadn't been on it in a few years, and was amazed to find the bee hive (just to the left about 2/3 of the way up) as active as ever.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Turkey Baster (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 7, 2008

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Comments: not well bolted for a 5.10 leader. Ankle breakers possible.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Paranoia (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jul 12, 2008

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Comments: Chossy and sharp; little sustained interesting climbing; poorly placed second bolt. No stars.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Strong Arm With the Lads (5.11a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 3, 2008

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Comments: Great route. Steep and juggy.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Stone Ground (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: Hard if you're short.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Calling All Karmas (5.12a/b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: Short, but bouldery and fun. Barn-doory clips.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : Blockade (5.10a)
By: Dave Wachter When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Kind of funky up the corner. Plenty of choss, some of it glued. I'd call it hard 5.10 (not 5.10-), but hey, it's Big Block.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Shane (5.10-)
By: Dave Wachter When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Best route on the wall, fairly graded. Not too reachy.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Block Wall : Left Route (5.9+)
By: Dave Wachter When: May 25, 2008

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Comments: Actually harder than the route just to the right (especially the start, which is NEVER 5.9+), and much poorer quality. Best to skip it.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Nice place for a pee... Wonder if anybody will notice?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : ... : Photo
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Feel the jug!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Manic Crack (aka Left Twin ... (5.11)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Super sweet finger crack with nice feet and unlimited gear placements. Nice hand jam rest halfway up, one size fits all. I agree that the rating is too generous (10+ or 11- more like it). Again! Again!


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11b/c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: Awesome arete climbing. Difficult onsight from the last bolt to the anchors, but unless you're under 5'8", you shouldn't have to use any less-than-sinker pockets. Full credit stars.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F... (5.12a)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: An interesting and challenging climb. After clambering onto the starting shelf, you get 3 bolts of excellent sustained 5.11-. Sequency, but mostly sinker holds with a couple of decent shakes. From there it's a bolt and a half of difficult climbing that is essentially one long boulder problem with a clip in the middle - long reaches between small pockets and edges, technical feet, and a couple of big or desperately thin moves off crappy holds. By the time you latch the finishing ledge, you almost... more >>


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: Safe lead? There's a difference between safe lead and overbolted. If you're not getting into the 5.11 grade 'cause you're scared of leader falls, this is your route, baby. Climbs well. Last bolt entirely unnecessary.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Double Vision / Ream Dream (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Mar 4, 2008

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Comments: Really nice climbing on small pockets with a wicked increasing angle up top. Do keep off the arete - the climbing up the face is great, and no scary fall.


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