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Rock Climbing Photo: Trap Dike


Member Since: Sep 11, 2011
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Dave Schultz
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Total Points: 581
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 605 | Routes 7 | Areas 2 | Photos 93 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 465 | Stars 18 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : Mental Blocks (5.12a C1)
By: Dave Schultz When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: Some other items to add:

The P5 "fist crack" is actually a very thin seam / crack ... not a fist crack (I wish it was a fist crack, but then it wouldn't be 12a).

All the aid is very straightforward, and short. Anyone going to aid this route should consider NOT bringing ascenders and simply re-aiding; it is short enough to leave all the gear (no need to back clean) for the follower(s). This could be critical because it would allow ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Turbocharge (5.10a)
By: Dave Schultz When: Oct 11, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Someone else's photo before the block came off.
Someone else's photo before the block came off.


The red circle shows the block that came off today (10/11/15). The blue arrow shows about where my cam was.

The block looked relatively attached, except for the obvious traverse finger rail. I placed a cam underneath at the base against the back wall where it appeared to be sound. After pulling around and onto the face I got into an awkward position and came off onto the cam behind the block. The block came off, narrowly missing me en route to the ground where my belayer ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Loder Peak : Coire Dubh Integrale (5.7 WI3)
By: Dave Schultz When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: I did this route in January 2014. I actually thought it was a HUGE BLAST, probably the most fun route in the entire week of climbing in Canada. It had a fun approach (more fun when you go up the wrong drainage first, then a fun bushwhack into the correct one); moderate ice, which we soloed; then some outstanding mixed/rock climbing.

We did the first crux pitch, and belayed before an immediate wandering second pitch. Then soloed a lot of easy terrain (well shown in the B... more >>


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Mt. Shuksan : Price Glacier : Price Glacier Route (Easy 5th WI3-4)
By: Dave Schultz When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: Did this early Aug 2014 and we did a rock variation on climber's left to get past the final, impassible shrund. It was tricky/funky/fun ice onto a super steep (65+ degree) snow slope (probably 50m to an anchor near the rock) then two pitches of rock (probably 70m total) to reach the final snowfield along the crystal glacier.

We had four 24" pickets and one 36" picket - use all five frequently during long section of simul-climbing and especially on the last steep snow pitch (above) to make an... more >>


Location: NC : Cedar Rock : Cedar Rock - North : Bayne's Corner (5.9)
By: Dave Schultz When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was actually really fun. It's very different than a lot of standard routes, so you get to use different skill/technique. It was definitely on the dirty side, but it's an obscure route in a non-frequently traveled area ... if it gets more traffic and cleans up it will be a lot of fun.

Quite a feat freeing the second pitch.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bloody Spire : Bloody Direct (5.9+)
By: Dave Schultz When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Rap rings on the top? Can you rap down and clean it or does someone need to follow to clean?


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Bloody Spire : Standard Route (5.7+)
By: Dave Schultz When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Can you do it one pitch with double ropes? How about rapping down to clean it? I ask because I will be climbing with my wife who may not be able to follow it up to clean it. Thanks.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : Needle's Eye : Threading the Needle (5.8+)
By: Dave Schultz When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Can you climb this and rap off and clean it on the rap down? Or does a follower need to clean it? I ask because I will be climbing with my wife who will not be able to climb a 5.8+. Thanks.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : High Peaks Region : Wallface : The Diagonal (5.8)
By: Dave Schultz When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: Hi everyone, I climbed this on Saturday to the huge belay ledge at the top of pitch four and bivyed (spelling??)(climbed Roger's Rock in the morning), then climbed the two 5.8 pitches first thing this morning and was back to the parking lot by noon. I can say there is some rap tat in a bush at the top of P1 (if you stay close to the overhang on the left). There is some tat and rap rings at the start of the ramp, at the finish of P2. There is some tat and rings in the middle of the ramp, at th... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Sword (5.6)
By: Dave Schultz When: Jun 17, 2012

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Comments: I would not call this even PG. The gear is all there, every time you have bomber footing there is a gear placement, what more can you ask for? Though I would agree that falling on the arete would most definitely suck. I also thought the climbing seemed easier than 5.6. ALL that being said, I thought that this route was awesome. I thoroughly enjoyed it, even a little bit more than the ever famous Rockaholic.


Location: NH : WM: Pinkham / Presidentials : Huntington Ravine : Northeast Ridge of the Pinn... (5.7)
By: Dave Schultz When: May 23, 2012

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Comments: I found this route to be well worth it. We parked at the auto road, and did not want to descent any of the gullies into Huntington (conditions didn't look favorable from our scouting from Pinkham); so we ended up hiking down the Lion's Head Trail and then back up to the base of the Pinnacle. This took us about 2.5 hrs, but at the end, our vehicle was at the top, we needed only one vehicle, and we did not have to descend at the end of the day. The route itself had a lot of super chil... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.8+)
By: Dave Schultz When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: This route is incredible. I will say that the first pitch is (relatively) boring, and most of the second pitch is boring, but that roof pull is out of this world. I think I will try and climb this route every time I am at the Gunks. I used a GoPro and got a great video of the roof:
.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Betty (5.3) : Photo
By: Dave Schultz When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: wow - a real, life hex placement, very rare.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Tilman's Arete : Tilman's Arete (5.7)
By: Dave Schultz When: May 3, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this one today, and found the gear above the bolt on P2 to be perfectly adequate. There is a bomber nut placement above the bolt, and then you can get two small cams (.3 and .4 BD) before reaching the belay.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ... : Diagonal Gully
By: Dave Schultz When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: Incredible ski line if you have the skill for it, way better than Tuckerman. Central Gulley is also a great line.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Avalanche Lake/Pass : The Trap Dike (WI2)
By: Dave Schultz When: Apr 19, 2012

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Comments: Skied the route from the summit in early March, there were no fixed anchors, we made v-threads for every rappel.



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