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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Stem Cell Research (5.10a)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed with your comment regarding the Pg13 rating. Went back and changed it since I haven't a clue why I added it. Fat finger editing? ;)
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Black Bluff : Black Bluff - North Face : Black Bluff - N. Face (Righ... : Social D (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route author (Pat Brennan) added a bolt (2011) to protect from a ground fall before doing the intial move up and left.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: hmmm....guideline #1: don't be a jerk. Violated. Classy.
Nice route....fun opening moves.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : South Face : South Pillar (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: When Blaine and Randy FA'd the route, it was a direct start below the bolt. Moves to the bolt are 5.9 and most locals will agree. 5.7? Sure, even 5.6....in the remaining pitches. Lets be a little realistic here. Pull it down for sandbagging. Good idea....
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles : Rotten Rock Valley
By: Dave Daly When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Add to comments.....killer climbs put up by Rim Of The World Climbing Club "boys and girls", including a handful by Chris Miller and crew. Bandit Arete comes to mind...
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingergrip (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As with Guideline #1, I'm not posting this to be a jerk. Consider it essential beta for the route (no offense, page author)....
The first pitch of Fingertip Traverse DOES reach Jungle Ledge in one single pitch (175'). Set the belay near the base of the next pitch for 'Fingergrip' (don't move all the way right on Jungle Ledge or you'll find yourself climbing 'El Camino Real' .10a!). 'Fingergrip' can be done in a full pitch (200'). This gives you 10' of rope remaining when you reach the oak... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Upper Air (A2)
By: Dave Daly When: Apr 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, the original line came in from Super Air (which didn't have as many bolts as it does now....sporty hook and bolt affair). There is a hook move from the 8th bolt out to the right and over to the bulging thin mini roof. #2 LA and a #3 KB are needed to get past the roof. One more hook move gets you to the bolts leading to the head wall. Original route was FA'd by Rick Poedeke.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Sundagger Wall : Crackerman (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is pretty fun. Often overlooked. Great link up to the routes above. For the friction lovers...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : King of Pain (5.9+)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has gear placements in the horizontal "gaps" leading up to the first bolt (good Alien placements) Good route!
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : King of Pain (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this photo tilted or aligned wrong?
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter.....can you tell me what happened to the route just left of Space Ramp (bolt studs hammered in, bolt studs removed). Not sure if this was a route you and your Dad put up. There is, however, a chained anchor directly above the line that is situated mid way up 'Space Ramp'. On that note, we did a route directly over that chained anchor (5.10) which leads to chains on top. Had to runout the last 35' due to a smashed bolt stud. What gives out there??
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : Space Ramp (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pretty good route! Pro is pretty good on this route. We found good nut placements up higher just before getting to the piton (the crux).
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : We Refuse to Grow Old and/o... (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, the route is around 50' with a total (4) bolts. The anchor consists of chains with screw links. We felt it was kinda soft for a 5.7, regardless on how you climb it. Plenty of great holds along the way.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : Borderline (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this line twice since there seems to be a new line of bolts after bolt #4, heading off slightly left. Enjoyable both ways.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Not known (A2 R)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The initial crack takes #2 brassie offsets. Reachy for most when going for the first bolt stud. The rest is neck-tying dowels with nut cables and hooking on 1/4" hook holes. The mental crux is after the hangered bolt mid way up to the next dowel for pro (25'). Shorter people will likely make 5 hook moves before reaching the last dowel. Three bolt anchor with chains to lower off or rap. Good practice for the big show...and haul practice too. Pulled up ledges and had an overnight party! Fun... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Who Says I'm Not? (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Route finishes to (2) bolt hangers. The Mussey hooks for Tuxedo Junction are 10' to the left and down from the anchors.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Indian Wall : Handful of Crack, Fistful o... (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Oct 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed.....don't miss the 2nd pitch. As a 80' climb, its' easily one pitch, checking in at 5.9 (might want to change the rating to that vice 5.7). The first pitch was fun too.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Roof (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree with the first comment. The rock up to the first bolt (even without using obvious features) is grippy. It's the section after the 2nd and 3rd bolt which is slippery. There are obvious crimps and dime edges leading to the roof but it sure is heady!! Back off it a half dozen times before going for it. Lots of whining but glad I did it!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Scot Rock : Highlander (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: May 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 pitches?? Really??
You can do this route by scrambling up 4th class rock to a decent blocky ledge then climb to the anchors. 60m rope CAN lower you off. Heck, Bagpipes and Ale is the longer of the two routes and the better quality route as well,
Hey, Eric (Tipton).....is Neil Young your favorite dood?
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills South : Tollhouse Rock
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: @ usetob-
I have been climbing in all areas (including Suicide and Tahquitz...which are now just outside my back porch) since 1990. And, of course, I was once a local around Tollhouse as well. I support the grades of the FAist to this day. I first started climbing steep slab in the Valley, Courtright, Suicide and Tollhouse. They all have solid ratings for sure. You want to really put your head in check, climb at Looking Glass in NC. Scariest slab climbing on the planet hands down. 50 to 60 runou... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Woodfords Canyon : Deadwood Wall : That's a Rap (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ron is spot on, kiddies. I see patina plates that can either take nuts in between them or creative slinging and a few cracks that can take pro. Perhaps a bolt would be needed on the upper section but that can easily be done on lead.....with good natural pro below.
Guys.....I suggest you do your homework before you set out and do something like this again. I wouldn't be surprised to see this route get the big chop!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: kennyt -
This is on a formation called 'Lost Eagle' in northern Shuteye (southern Yosemite). Shuteye is has loads of these domes and crags. Grahm Doe is publishing a guide book soon. Late 2011/early 2012?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Le Dent Pinnacle : Forest Lawn (A2+)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Larry -
Your pin was gone when we did it (Jun 07). There were two fixed nuts at the roof....nothing else. Took hybrid and reg. Aliens, a few #00 TCU's and HB offsets. I dont recall getting in clean small stuff in the first 5 to 10 ft. KB's worked the best to solve that. Found a baby placement but I should have used the smallest C4 in the arsenal (brain fart!). Never used a hook....what for ????
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Cattle Pocket : ... : The Split (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Sep 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, its called 'Split 8'...not The Split or Split.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Penguello (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Aug 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob -
When we put it up, I climbed straight up and drilled from good stances.
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