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Gettin' stormed on Pitch #5 of 'Freak Show' (V, 5.9 A3+)  North Dome, Kings Canyon Nat'l Park.


Member Since: Mar 19, 2007
Last Visit: Oct 20, 2014
Contact Dave Daly


Point Rank: # 553
Total Points: 1,117
Last Year: 44
Last 30 Days: 0
68 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 805 | Routes 41 | Areas 9 | Photos 85 | Page Improvements | Comments 147 | Posts 5 | Stars 298 | Ratings 220
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Two Cams are Better Than No... (5.10a)
By: Dave Daly When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: Superb route! Wish it was longer. Bring two #2 Camelots.....er, maybe three. ;)


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock Spire : East Face (5.9 C1) : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Hey Daniel....you said a single 70 meter barely reaches each belay anchor when you rap the route? Tempted to get back there this year and second the route. You guys made the old timers proud! :)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Unknown 9+ (5.9+)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: it is suggested that Tim Standing FA'd this line based on the way the hangers were painted....and on other routes, while they were already installed on the route! >:/


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Not sure if you see the routes listed for the West Penguin but these are the "unreported" routes you speak of....'Stem Cell Research' (.10a) and 'My Little Lab Rat' (.10b). Give them a try before you eyeball rate them from the ground.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: More specifically, 'Three Feathers' (5.9). Probably THE best route on the Melting Wall! But then again, they're all good!


Location: UT : Zion National Park
By: Dave Daly When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Anyone have knowledge where to get a shower outside the park, besides a hotel or RV park? Surprised the park doesn't have restrooms with showers by now.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Tollhouse Rock : Tollhouse Rock : Shining Path (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: 12 or 13 years??!! Has it been that long? I remember when you put in that pitch Dwight. Think we all thought it was 5.9 after leading it. As I recall, it was moving from the 1st to the 2nd bolt is the crux. All I remember was, "Don't come off or I'll be making a running arc at my belayer!" Committing. I'd still rate it 5.9 though (3rd pitch).

I heard Matt Schutz and Mark did a route right of Elephant Walk and T-House Traverse. But there were rumors that a mega runout route was in that vicinity... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Stem Cell Research (5.10a)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Agreed with your comment regarding the Pg13 rating. Went back and changed it since I haven't a clue why I added it. Fat finger editing? ;)


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Black Bluff : ... : Social D (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 25, 2013

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Comments: The route author (Pat Brennan) added a bolt (2011) to protect from a ground fall before doing the intial move up and left.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 24, 2013

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Comments: hmmm....guideline #1: don't be a jerk. Violated. Classy.

Nice route....fun opening moves.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Fresno Dome aka "Wamello" : South Face : South Pillar (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 9, 2013

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Comments: When Blaine and Randy FA'd the route, it was a direct start below the bolt. Moves to the bolt are 5.9 and most locals will agree. 5.7? Sure, even 5.6....in the remaining pitches. Lets be a little realistic here. Pull it down for sandbagging. Good idea....


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Lake Arrowhead Area : Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles : Rotten Rock Valley
By: Dave Daly When: Dec 14, 2012

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Comments: Add to comments.....killer climbs put up by Rim Of The World Climbing Club "boys and girls", including a handful by Chris Miller and crew. Bandit Arete comes to mind...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingergrip (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: As with Guideline #1, I'm not posting this to be a jerk. Consider it essential beta for the route (no offense, page author)....

The first pitch of Fingertip Traverse DOES reach Jungle Ledge in one single pitch (175'). Set the belay near the base of the next pitch for 'Fingergrip' (don't move all the way right on Jungle Ledge or you'll find yourself climbing 'El Camino Real' .10a!). 'Fingergrip' can be done in a full pitch (200'). This gives you 10' of rope remaining when you reach the oak... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Upper Air (A2)
By: Dave Daly When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: Actually, the original line came in from Super Air (which didn't have as many bolts as it does now....sporty hook and bolt affair). There is a hook move from the 8th bolt out to the right and over to the bulging thin mini roof. #2 LA and a #3 KB are needed to get past the roof. One more hook move gets you to the bolts leading to the head wall. Original route was FA'd by Rick Poedeke.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Sundagger Wall : Crackerman (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: This route is pretty fun. Often overlooked. Great link up to the routes above. For the friction lovers...


Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : King of Pain (5.9+)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: This route has gear placements in the horizontal "gaps" leading up to the first bolt (good Alien placements) Good route!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : King of Pain (5.9+) : Photo
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: Is this photo tilted or aligned wrong?


Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Peter.....can you tell me what happened to the route just left of Space Ramp (bolt studs hammered in, bolt studs removed). Not sure if this was a route you and your Dad put up. There is, however, a chained anchor directly above the line that is situated mid way up 'Space Ramp'. On that note, we did a route directly over that chained anchor (5.10) which leads to chains on top. Had to runout the last 35' due to a smashed bolt stud. What gives out there??


Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : Space Ramp (5.8)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: A pretty good route! Pro is pretty good on this route. We found good nut placements up higher just before getting to the piton (the crux).




Location: CA : San Diego County : Descanso Wall : Main Wall : We Refuse to Grow Old and/o... (5.7)
By: Dave Daly When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Actually, the route is around 50' with a total (4) bolts. The anchor consists of chains with screw links. We felt it was kinda soft for a 5.7, regardless on how you climb it. Plenty of great holds along the way.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : Borderline (5.10b)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: Did this line twice since there seems to be a new line of bolts after bolt #4, heading off slightly left. Enjoyable both ways.


Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Not known (A2 R)
By: Dave Daly When: Feb 14, 2012

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Comments: The initial crack takes #2 brassie offsets. Reachy for most when going for the first bolt stud. The rest is neck-tying dowels with nut cables and hooking on 1/4" hook holes. The mental crux is after the hangered bolt mid way up to the next dowel for pro (25'). Shorter people will likely make 5 hook moves before reaching the last dowel. Three bolt anchor with chains to lower off or rap. Good practice for the big show...and haul practice too. Pulled up ledges and had an overnight party! Fun... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Penguins : Who Says I'm Not? (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Jan 18, 2012

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Comments: Route finishes to (2) bolt hangers. The Mussey hooks for Tuxedo Junction are 10' to the left and down from the anchors.


Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : Island In The Sky : Indian Wall : Handful of Crack, Fistful o... (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: Agreed.....don't miss the 2nd pitch. As a 80' climb, its' easily one pitch, checking in at 5.9 (might want to change the rating to that vice 5.7). The first pitch was fun too.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : The Roof (5.9)
By: Dave Daly When: May 9, 2011

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Comments: I disagree with the first comment. The rock up to the first bolt (even without using obvious features) is grippy. It's the section after the 2nd and 3rd bolt which is slippery. There are obvious crimps and dime edges leading to the roof but it sure is heady!! Back off it a half dozen times before going for it. Lots of whining but glad I did it!


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