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Member Since: Nov 23, 2009
Last Visit: 32 mins ago
Contact Dave Clark 5.10

Point Rank: # 1,052
Total Points: 769
Last Year: 43
Last 30 Days: 1
8 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dave Clark 5.10 been climbing?










Contributions


All 1795 | Routes 14 | Areas 7 | Photos 79 | Page Improvements | Comments 129 | Posts 1 | Stars 804 | Ratings 761
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Crystal Cat (5.9+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Good route for 5.6 climbers with a 5.9 rope gun to get a rope up the last 15 ft. Food for thought: a second bolt and rap anchors at bolt 11 or 12 would offer a nice 30m route option at 5.6 or 5.7 for all the beginners at Cat Slab.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Good route; thx Josh. Both pairs of anchors at the top are good. I give it a 5.9L, for lichen which is still abundant and adds significant difficulty seeing and using footholds. I'll take a brush next time, and it should be a solid 5.9 when it cleans up.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The Goose (5.10b/c)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: As another who doesn't excel at thin face climbing, this felt pretty challenging for the grade. I have seldom appreciated a big jug hold more. But very fun and high quality climbing. Hard to pass it up after rapping right over it from the Melvin's P1 top anchors.

Note: in the L>R sort, this could go just right of Melvin's.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Safari : The Big Five : Cape Buffalo (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: I'm editing my comment from a couple weeks ago, based on Greg's quick response (below). Seems the scary looking rock is unlikely to fall on you. Good work by Greg to try and dislodge the suspect rock and confirm it won't come out even with crowbar.

Previous comment was this:
(Beware: on the climber's left between bolt 4 and 5, there is an approx. 500-lb piece of rock that appears to be detached. The bottom face of this rock forms a triangular roof about 2-ft wide, which appears in the bet... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Safari : The Big Five
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I enjoyed this crag and would have given more stars if the rock quality was better. Seemed like route difficulty was a bit dependent on finding holds that could be trusted, but with a bit of an alpine mindset, the climbing is certainly fun. Thanks for the good work, Greg. (Sorry about my continuing to downrate your routes.)
Note: All the Big Five routes are shorter than shown in the orginal post. The three on the right side are about 85 ft from Sun Tan ledge, and it's better to belay Lion King... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Safari : The Big Five : Lion King (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I thought this was the best route at the crag, with great straight-up climbing and good rock quality.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Safari : The Big Five : A Committee of Two (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: I liked this climb but wasn't too sure about those three giant blocks that make up the arete along the right side of the crux section. The cracks in that arete make one wonder if a 2-ton piece (including some of those great jug holds) might fall out on someone. Look just right of Deb in this photo, at the continuous crack that runs under the "arete" to the right. The route probably goes 5.10 if you just climb the face where the bolts are and avoid using anything to the right of that crack. I ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : 5.8 Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: Jay's comment is correct, this photo shows the rope on the Unknown 5.8 crack. The Unknown 5.7 crack is mostly out of the picture to the right, although the very top of the crack appears in the upper right of the photo. The Rodent anchors appear in the extreme upper left of this photo.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Breath (5.10)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: The wide range of ratings for this one -- from 5.9 to 5.10+ -- most likely stems from how it's climbed just before and just after the mid-way ledge with anchors. Belly to bolts it probably goes 10a below the ledge and 10d above the ledge. Going further left at these two places it probably goes 9+ below and 10b above the ledge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : Chocolate Bunny (5.8+ PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Rock quality on this route is quite poor (worthy of a bomb rating), but the climbing is OK otherwise. One must be prudent to scrutinize every hold. Just pretend you're alpine climbing, except for those bolts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : There She Goes Again (5.9- PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Difficulty of the crux move at the top varies depending on how far left of the bolt line you venture. Harder close to bolt line, easier to left.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : Geese In Flight (5.10-)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: I thought the crux was pulling the roof. The bouldery start was tricky, but I was able to clip the first bolt pretty easily before losing touch with the ground.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Good route, despite being 5.7 except for one 5.9 roof move. Second pitch is a half-pitch before joining Solid Gold P2 a few bolts below the large P2 ledge. So you can rap down SG in two raps w a 60m rope.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Fun 'n' Games (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Beware, at top of the P2 dihedral pitch the ~ 250 lb rock next to the top anchors is detached. I had two cams in the crack on the left (north) side of this rock, and they moved the rock when loaded. It didn't seem a safe time to trundle it, and we didn't have a crowbar, so we added a third bolt for a belayer anchor, since the rap anchors are low.


Location: CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Road : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : ... : Three Little Bats (5.9+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a nice climb, but certainly not a 5.11 in my opinion. I led it onsight with relative ease, and I'm not a 5.11 climber. It felt no harder than Undisclosed Location to me, and despite all the lichen that will clean up and make it easier, it's already quite a bit easier than the 5.10s at Tiers of Zion. So, enjoy it as a nice 5.9, and don't let the 5.11 rating scare you off (the approach to the Upper Tier may legitimately discourage you, however). Kudos to Josh and other developers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Despite all the beta and various opinions on finding the correct starting point, when you first get to the base of the rock, things look different than photos from further away and you can't see very high up the route. So here's a photo from the base where we started. You can start anywhere from about 40 ft left or 15 ft right from this point and still climb to the same P1 belay point, which is 25 ft below and left of the double crack system near the center top of the photo (with a 15-ft tall fl... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Roller Skates (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Good long pitch with hand jams, stems, and face holds. From the ledge about 15 ft below the very top, you can traverse left around a corner to a tree with slings and rap rings. Best to rap down from this tree around the corner on the face to the left rather than down the Roller Skates line to avoid rope drag pulling the rope. If you TR belay off that tree, you need to extend about 15' to avoid heavy rope drag. Another option is to finish the climb up the front of the top block to another tree, w... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Froggy Bottoms (5.7 PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Good, varied climbing with good pro except for bottom 12 ft which is the crux. You can place a couple marginal small stoppers that may or may not protect a ground fall before good pro about 15 ft up. Not sure why double bolt anchors are 20 ft below the top of the wall, where there are slings w rap rings around a tree. Top face is good climbing and about 5.9. This route felt significantly harder than Pirouette.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Unknown (Far Left) (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice long route with several variations. Worthwhile and can TR variations from either of two top anchors.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Climbers Just Want To Have ... (5.7)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch of this route and adjacent routes is closed, with a closure sign at the base that looks permanent. Not sure why, but perhaps due to nesting at the top of the large crack to the right.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Fun 'n' Games (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is cleaning up but still has an adventure feel with some rockfall potential. Pitch 1 felt like 5.6 with plenty of gear options. Nothing wrong with P1, but pitch 2 is a high quality pitch and the reason to climb Fun 'n' Games. Don't shy away from P2 because of the runout mentioned in the route description. The only runout is in the 4th class start (~ 30 ft), and above that the pro is just fine with a light std rack of cams. Stopper placements are hard to find, because the cracks all se... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Gooey Kablooie (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: As Jay eluded, surmounting the first roof around the right side is quite a bit easier. Although it's a better challenge to pull the roof the hard way (10b), it seems contrived to give the route a 10b rating when you can follow the bolts and not exceed 5.9+. Climb it both ways and enjoy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Clyde (5.7)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: Nice climbing on this route. It will improve as it cleans up and maybe feel more like 5.6 without the lichen. Leo and I cleaned loose rock, but some sketchy rock remains on the lower portion. The two pitches combine to 100 ft (30m) total, so it can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Healing Center : Radial Nerve (5.10a)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: To reduce duplication with lower AC Separation, one can branch to the right below the crux bulge (~b3). This is more feasible on TR than on lead unless you're OK with the runout of skipping a bolt or two.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Healing Center : Ketosis (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: Sans stick clip or belay anchor, the start is PG-13 for both leader and belayer with steep slope below.


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