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Member Since: Nov 23, 2009
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Dave Clark 5.10

Point Rank: # 988
Total Points: 753
Last Year: 86
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dave Clark 5.10 been climbing?










Contributions


All 1679 | Routes 14 | Areas 7 | Photos 77 | Page Improvements | Comments 123 | Posts 1 | Stars 745 | Ratings 712
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : 5.8 Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: Jay's comment is correct, this photo shows the rope on the Unknown 5.8 crack. The Unknown 5.7 crack is mostly out of the picture to the right, although the very top of the crack appears in the upper right of the photo. The Rodent anchors appear in the extreme upper left of this photo.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Breath (5.10)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 19, 2015

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Comments: The wide range of ratings for this one -- from 5.9 to 5.10+ -- most likely stems from how it's climbed just before and just after the mid-way ledge with anchors. Belly to bolts it probably goes 10a below the ledge and 10d above the ledge. Going further left at these two places it probably goes 9+ below and 10b above the ledge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : Chocolate Bunny (5.8+ PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Rock quality on this route is quite poor (worthy of a bomb rating), but the climbing is OK otherwise. One must be prudent to scrutinize every hold. Just pretend you're alpine climbing, except for those bolts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : There She Goes Again (5.9- PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Difficulty of the crux move at the top varies depending on how far left of the bolt line you venture. Harder close to bolt line, easier to left.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rabbit Hole : Geese In Flight (5.10-)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: I thought the crux was pulling the roof. The bouldery start was tricky, but I was able to clip the first bolt pretty easily before losing touch with the ground.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Furlough Day (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Good route, despite being 5.7 except for one 5.9 roof move. Second pitch is a half-pitch before joining Solid Gold P2 a few bolts below the large P2 ledge. So you can rap down SG in two raps w a 60m rope.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Fun 'n' Games (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Beware, at top of the P2 dihedral pitch the ~ 250 lb rock next to the top anchors is detached. I had two cams in the crack on the left (north) side of this rock, and they moved the rock when loaded. It didn't seem a safe time to trundle it, and we didn't have a crowbar, so we added a third bolt for a belayer anchor, since the rap anchors are low.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : A. First Triangle : Three Little Bats (5.9+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a nice climb, but certainly not a 5.11 in my opinion. I led it onsight with relative ease, and I'm not a 5.11 climber. It felt no harder than Undisclosed Location to me, and despite all the lichen that will clean up and make it easier, it's already quite a bit easier than the 5.10s at Tiers of Zion. So, enjoy it as a nice 5.9, and don't let the 5.11 rating scare you off (the approach to the Upper Tier may legitimately discourage you, however). Kudos to Josh and other developers.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : North Ridge (5.6)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 26, 2015

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Comments: Despite all the beta and various opinions on finding the correct starting point, when you first get to the base of the rock, things look different than photos from further away and you can't see very high up the route. So here's a photo from the base where we started. You can start anywhere from about 40 ft left or 15 ft right from this point and still climb to the same P1 belay point, which is 25 ft below and left of the double crack system near the center top of the photo (with a 15-ft tall fl... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Roller Skates (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Good long pitch with hand jams, stems, and face holds. From the ledge about 15 ft below the very top, you can traverse left around a corner to a tree with slings and rap rings. Best to rap down from this tree around the corner on the face to the left rather than down the Roller Skates line to avoid rope drag pulling the rope. If you TR belay off that tree, you need to extend about 15' to avoid heavy rope drag. Another option is to finish the climb up the front of the top block to another tree, w... more >>


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Cracked Canyon : Froggy Bottoms (5.7 PG13)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Good, varied climbing with good pro except for bottom 12 ft which is the crux. You can place a couple marginal small stoppers that may or may not protect a ground fall before good pro about 15 ft up. Not sure why double bolt anchors are 20 ft below the top of the wall, where there are slings w rap rings around a tree. Top face is good climbing and about 5.9. This route felt significantly harder than Pirouette.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Unknown (Far Left) (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice long route with several variations. Worthwhile and can TR variations from either of two top anchors.


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Climbers Just Want To Have ... (5.7)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch of this route and adjacent routes is closed, with a closure sign at the base that looks permanent. Not sure why, but perhaps due to nesting at the top of the large crack to the right.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Fun 'n' Games (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jun 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is cleaning up but still has an adventure feel with some rockfall potential. Pitch 1 felt like 5.6 with plenty of gear options. Nothing wrong with P1, but pitch 2 is a high quality pitch and the reason to climb Fun 'n' Games. Don't shy away from P2 because of the runout mentioned in the route description. The only runout is in the 4th class start (~ 30 ft), and above that the pro is just fine with a light std rack of cams. Stopper placements are hard to find, because the cracks all se... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Gooey Kablooie (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Apr 7, 2015

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Comments: As Jay eluded, surmounting the first roof around the right side is quite a bit easier. Although it's a better challenge to pull the roof the hard way (10b), it seems contrived to give the route a 10b rating when you can follow the bolts and not exceed 5.9+. Climb it both ways and enjoy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Clyde (5.8)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Mar 20, 2015

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Comments: Nice climbing on this route. It will improve as it cleans up and maybe feel more like 5.6 without the lichen. Leo and I cleaned loose rock, but some sketchy rock remains on the lower portion. The two pitches combine to 100 ft (30m) total, so it can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Healing Center : Radial Nerve (5.10a)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: To reduce duplication with lower AC Separation, one can branch to the right below the crux bulge (~b3). This is more feasible on TR than on lead unless you're OK with the runout of skipping a bolt or two.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Healing Center : Ketosis (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Jan 17, 2015

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Comments: Sans stick clip or belay anchor, the start is PG-13 for both leader and belayer with steep slope below.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : D's Dry Dream (5.10a)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: A good route however you do it. Maybe 5.9- if you backstep up the first 30 ft, maybe 10b if you stay entirely on the bolted wall (the holds are getting slicker over the years). Do it both ways and enjoy!


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Moment of Weakness (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 13, 2014

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Comments: The "death block" that Andrew mentions in previous comment is still there, still very loose, and quite scary. However, it is wedge-shaped, and it will not come out unless lifted up about 4" and then pulled out (probably 150 lb lift required) or if it breaks in two, but it seems very strong. So DO be careful, but it will probably stay there for many years without a concerted effort to remove it.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: It's at least 30 ft to the first bolt, so a couple small cams are suggested to protect against groundfall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: Get Shorty can be climbed as shown in this photo (to the Bolt Cola anchors), but there now are 3 bolts leading further right to higher top anchors.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Top Dawg (5.10b)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: A fun, short addition with two overhangs to surmount. Makes a quality 1-1/2 pitch sport route. One of the key holds to pull the first (smaller) roof is scary thin but seems strong enough. Maybe not for long.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : The Purrrfect Puppy (5.7)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Better rock and a better line than Stray Cat (I'm a dog person). A few holds look thin and sketchy, but they didn't budge when I tried to break them. Nice warm-up pitch before tackling the 10b short second pitch (Top Dawg).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Unknown Big Black Flake (5.10+)
By: Dave Clark 5.10 When: Oct 22, 2014

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Comments: This route is harder than Little Sister, and the rock is less solid. Needs to clean up -- three crimper holds broke under my fingers, and there's a cubic foot sized, loose block begging to be pulled on at the second overlap (above the big black flake). But fun.


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