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Vintage anorexic sport climber shot


Member Since: May 3, 2002
Last Visit: Jul 8, 2014
Contact Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"


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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" been climbing?










Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 130 | Routes 8 | Areas 3 | Photos 28 | Page Improvments | Comments 36 | Posts 29 | Stars 18 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : South Face of Arthur's Rock : Big, Bad Book (5.11b)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: Yes, this is an old aid route. I thought it ~A3+ back in '73 when I first climbed it with a mix of primitive nuts and iron. I called it "Late-night Horror Show".

Again, I can't say I was the first, but there were no other pin scars when I climbed it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Apr 24, 2012

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Comments: Are you sure they were "Big City Climbers"?

It's prom season, and I've encountered many LARGE parties of local HS aged kids trashing the place.

It's not just a climbers only campground.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Arthur's Rock : Main Area (Arthur's Rock) : Clutch (aka Double Clutch) (V8)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: I'm not real tall (5' 10") but have a +4 ape index, and this was at the limit of my reach.

I thought the crux was controlling the huge swing after your feet cut loose once you grab the jug above the roof. The first time I stuck the jug, I wasn't ready for the swing and ended up at least 10' down the hill.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edward's Crack, Left Exit (5.4 PG13)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: That's funny, because I always felt it way, WAY over rated at 5.4.

I've taken at least a dozen people, who's only previous climbing experience was one or days at an indoor gym, up Ed's using the Left Exit.

I much prefer that, to Walt's for a "first timer's climb".


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Unknown 5.7 (5.7)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: Where is "Buns"??


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Bum Cakes (formerly listed ... (5.9+)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: So, "almost 1/4 mile away" from another route that is described as "hard to find" is the only way to locate this climb?

Even the cheapest cell phone can take a photo acceptable enough to at least post a wide view of the cliff band and an "approximate" hand drawn line.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 19, 2010

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Comments: Pat McGrane was just in town last week. We got together for a little climbing, and bit more beer drinking with Jim Brink.

That got me to remembering the few dozen routes I did on Greyrock my freshman year at CSU in '73.

I remember projecting that aweful chimney on TR, what is now known as "Go Spuds, Go". I never led it, but did TR it in spring '74. I did lead many horrendous runout slab routes on the SW slabs that I rated Devil's Lake,WI, F8 to F10 "back in the day" ratings.

First ascents..... more >>


Location: WY : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Aug 19, 2010

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Comments: Looks like an aerial veiw of Titcomb Gorge looking N


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jul 2, 2010

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Comments: You people that rated these are idiots! This is at least a 5.10.

Are you sure you weren't on Gunga Din or Drop Zone?

Cold Fingers is an excellent, short, moderate route, with perfect edges and 5.7 at max. It's only "run out" if you're expecting a bolt a body length.

We've taken many climbing family picnics there, and all of the kids ages 6-12 run laps on Cold Fingers with a TR. They'd rather climb it than EO friction.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : ... : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 22, 2009

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Comments: Did your belayer forget to tie in?


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 2, 2009

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Comments: I can't say for sure about Gill but I would assume so, since he spent quite a bit of time in the area.

I heard of Blacktail Butte back at Devils Lake,WI and spent a couple of day's TR'g there in the summer of '73.

A couple of weeks later, we ran into "The Master" himself, John Gill while we were bouldering at the Big Sandy trailhead in the Wind's and spent an afternoon with him.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Upper Blair : The Heap : Country Western Swing aka M... (5.11d)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jun 18, 2009

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Comments: Hopefully somebody has tightened all the ancient bolts since my last time up it in '95. At that point, they were all spinners, and I knew I was probably at the crux when I clipped the lousiest bolt of them all.

You might want to have 1 or 2 pieces of 3/4 to 1" gear to protect the crack after the pumpy overhanging bolted start to get to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: That is a great shot !


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jan 28, 2009

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Comments: I know one of my old partners, Pat McGrane did a mid-winter ascent with his brother ~'77-79.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Currey's Diagonal (5.10b)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jan 6, 2009

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Comments: Who was Currey ? I'm sure in my vast collection of moth eaten guidebooks dating back to '72 when I first started climbing at the 'Woo, if they're still readable, buried in my crawlspace, there is the info.

Meanwhile, who got the FFA? I'm sure Layne's book had the info, but I can't find it in my bookcase.

I vividly recall my onsight lead of it back in '76, just after leading "Finally" when our "crew" from CSU spent a weekend prior to the start of my last fall semester there.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : ... : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Dec 5, 2008

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Comments: "Note the old school harness".

Not to mention the nice Lycra and "high top" shoes. The harness looks like my old Robertson.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Chicago (5.9 R)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 30, 2008

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Comments: Just thinking back, but in '69 as we were rappelling down this route we passed a very old man with no rope, climbing up beside us. He told me "Why don't you try climbing up instead of rapping down" and out of this, resulted my lifelong passion. The old man was Dave Slinger, my "mentor" and probably one of the greatest climbers of the "Golden Age". He kind of adopted us as his grand kids and took us around showing his favorites and in the process teaching me how to climb. I can still remember how... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Black Rib (5.11a)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 30, 2008

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Comments: Quote: Jay Knower, "As for Black Rib, it's a 5.11 with a 12a move on it, in classic Devil's Lake tradition. "

So now I was climbing 5.12 in '71 ??

My first 5.10, and one of my favorite 5.10's, next to Flatus that is.

My question, were we actually climbing that hard, back in '69-'73 during my stint at "The Lake", were I ticked essentially every F10 in the old "Red Book of Westmarch", in my way too big RD's, plus freeing a bunch of aid routes, and a few of our own ?

Or are Devil's Lake standa... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: This climb has a pretty contentious history from the past.

I was involved with many long series of posts that were deleted years ago by the mod's regarding this route.

Thankfully, someone has posted a few photos of the route.

imglarge.mountainproject.com/106309393_273edf.jpg

Clip from the right crack, clip from the left, chase the bolt's ???

Where is the actual route ?


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Black Slabbeth (5.10a) : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Nov 24, 2008

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Comments: As I said many years ago when this entire thread was deleted, and not wanting to re-open the can of worms....


But...the photo supports my view. Clip from the right crack, clip from the left crack. You can reach the bolts either way. Put your "blinders" on, follow the bolts straight up and it's worth a run.

Otherwise, one of the top 100 most contrived routes at Shelf.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: May 3, 2008

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Comments: Standard Vedauwoo 5.9+ as a crack climb.

Face climb the crystals, and just use the crack for pro, and its a standard 5.9-. Just because its near a crack doesn't mean you have to climb it as a crack.

One of the better gear face climbs at the "Woo" that is much easier than trying to jam it.


Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : Split Rock : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Apr 16, 2008

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Comments: That's Lankin Dome in the distance.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Photo
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Sep 2, 2007

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Comments: BTW, it's one of the smaller faces in the canyon.


Location: WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone : Stargazer (5.7)
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: Bumping just to see if anyone knows the name, FA, or rating.


Location: CO : Davenport Finishes 14'er Qu...
By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" When: Jan 24, 2007

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Comments: I first climbed Long's the Summer of '72. I've since summited it, 20-30 times and about 15-20 other 14'ers. I think I'm really close to being over 14,000' 53 times but the brain gets fuzzy at my age. :~)


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