Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Feb 8, 2007
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact dave bingham


Point Rank: # 4,415
Total Points: 90
Last Year: 10
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has dave bingham been climbing?










Contributions


All 81 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 49 | Posts 22 | Stars 3 | Ratings 2
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Climbing Skills : How to Clean Sport Climbing...
By: dave bingham When: Jun 18, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm surprised the diagram shows draws being clipped in to the same chain link as the threaded rope. That's fine if there are rings, but running the rope and a draw thru the same chain link is like an elephant humping a chipmunk.

While the overall sequence is fine, it's a bit slow, and certainly not the only safe option when threading.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face : Mantle Dynamics (5.10b)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting point about being easier than "Red Rib". For sure. Thanks to Kevin Pogue for all those bolts. Clipping about half of them make it feel more "old school", if you're in to that sort of thing.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Johnny Cash
By: dave bingham When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't think anyone ever used the word "Memorial" for the "Johnny Cash" area.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : High Times (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm wondering if you did Chris Barnes "High Times" (5.7), which I have not done, but is said to be Left of "Little Time"?


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : Pollo Negro (5.10b/c)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: FA - Dean Hernandez / Dave Bingham


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Grunt and Moan (5.10a)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for posting! I have not noticed this route...Is it just left of the S&A gully?


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid... : Honeymoon in Almo (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome route! It's super-blank looking, but has just enough classic City edges to make it go without any stopper sections.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Veal Cage (5.12)
By: dave bingham When: Sep 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: FA - Tony Yaniro.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Expect No Mercy (5.10b)
By: dave bingham When: Sep 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent by New York climber Gene Smith around 86', not Lowe.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Jul 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice job Cleaning up that loose flake, Adam.
We also removed a belayer-killing block on from p-1 of the direct last year.

Hey admin - Why is this route still rated .11A?


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Astro Elephant (5.10-) : Photo
By: dave bingham When: Jun 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: That does not look like the start of Astro...maybe sideline?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Twist and Crawl (5.8 R)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A fun route that would be better with a bolted direct start so you don't have to grovel up the chimney.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : New Toy (5.10a X)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: R - X whatever. This route is rarely led because of the sparse (hand drilled on lead) bolting. Jay G. felt fine about adding 10 bolts to "Mystery Achievement", but wants to leave "New Toy" as is. Go figure.



Location: ID : The Fins
By: dave bingham When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: My guide "Idaho Underground" (2012) includes The Fins and a bunch of other Idaho crags.


Location: ID : Trail Creek - Sun Valley, I...
By: dave bingham When: Jun 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The guide "Idaho Underground" (2012) is out and includes Trail Creek and other Sun Valley area climbing.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Mystery Achievement (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: May 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Despite 30+ years climbing at the City, I never climbed Jay Goodwin's "Mystery Achievement", until recently when Jay added bolts. Yes, the new bolts strip most of the challenge, but IMO, the City needs more routes like this to take the pressure off the few well-bolted moderates. Thanks Jay!

PS - how about adding a bolted direct start to "Twist and Crawl"?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Buzzard Perch : Terror of Tiny Town (5.11a/b)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 8, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, it's "Terror of Tiny Town" - like the old midget movie. By the way,I don't think one needs any special gear(i.e.Lowe ball)to protect the route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Did the route with my 15 yr old son march '13. Awesome.

Drive: made it maybe a mile from the hwy. with a VW van. 1.5 hrs from there to rope-up.

Gear: We used "Best Moab Climbs"gear list - (and placed a lot of gear) but still had too many yellow and blue camalots. Not sure if we used a blue #3.

4 pitches including the mini summit pitch (V3 for short folk). No reason to belay before the squeeze IMO. 3 raps with a single 70m worked well.

Rating: Any route with a plus or minus is a sandbag... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - West : Rollercoaster (5.9)
By: dave bingham When: Nov 12, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Yea, not sure how this went from 5.7R to 5.9 with bolts...
I think 5.7 may be a sandbag though. 5.8?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Oct 5, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: ..pretty sure CD is the same as always - except some joker trundled the natural cheat stone that made it easier to pull in to the layback. OLD school 11a. The route to the right - "Some Assembly Required" does have missing holds however, and is quite a bit harder now.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Unknown (5.10a)
By: dave bingham When: Sep 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I think this must be the start of "Slipstream" (.10/A3+). The first pitch is free - right facing flake, followed by two aid pitches, including the infamous tied-off drill bit pendulum.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : The Fine Line (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Jul 6, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Historical correction: The "Lowe's"did the first clean (no piton) ascent, not the FFA. I think the first pitch was equipped and free climbed by Jeff Rhodes of Pocatello in the early 90's.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Original Beckey (5.11+)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Having done these routes several times, Clint's route description may be a little confusing.

The "Original Beckey" is, of course, the line Fred Becky did on the first ascent. The "Direct" was done decades later after free attempts on the original line failed. In the early 90's bolts and pins were added to the first and third pitches, and the "Original Beckey" became free - and well-protected.

The "Direct" starts lower and left of the original and joins it after 3 pitches. From that point you ... more >>


Location: ID : Box Canyon : Bardini Wall : Coral Sea (5.10a)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The climbing in Box Canyon can be spooky at first. Sharp rock, small footholds. But R rated? Can 12 bolts in 150'be "R" rated?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Strategic Defense (5.11c)
By: dave bingham When: May 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I've had people suggest adding a lower bolt because the nut before the 1st bolt is marginal and the 1st clip is a not easy. Any thoughts out there?


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>