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Member Since: Feb 8, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 3,976
Total Points: 127
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 125 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 2 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 71 | Posts 40 | Stars 4 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : McCall Area : Payette Lake Boulder Circui...
By: dave bingham When: 3 days ago

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Comments: McCall or Boise ID folk. Anyone available to climb Slick Rock next Sat. (Sep. 5)??


Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Regular Route (5.6)
By: dave bingham When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Anyone up for climbing the regular (or other) route on Slick Rock next Sat. (Sep. 5)? I'm thinking of soloing but...


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - West : Chaos (5.12c)
By: dave bingham When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Lynn Hill climbed this route. Don't be afraid!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Luna 12 (5.12b)
By: dave bingham When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: We got on this on TR and could barely winch thru the moves.12b?? Has anyone redpointed this?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Crunk Cowgirl (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: OK then. "Crunk Cowgirl" it is. Of course this was likely done centuries ago, but who cares?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Firewater (5.11b R)
By: dave bingham When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: Not R rated.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Old School, New School (5.7+ PG13)
By: dave bingham When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Nice!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Life Without Sex (5.11a)
By: dave bingham When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I must have been trying to be clever when I made the "minimal interest" comment. I imagine I was referring to a literal life without sex, not the climb.

The 5.8 crack/dike is Jay Goodwin's "Preteen Sex".

It does sound like Boissal is describing "Sex, drugs,etc".

Sex, drugs,etc is clearly identified by it's upper patina headwall.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Suburban Sprawl (5.10- R)
By: dave bingham When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: The description is off. The route starts as for "Batwings", cutting left at the horizontal crack, rather than right. I would not describe this crack section as "indistinct and so-so rock".

The route "Solstice" (5.9d) joins the route above the "Suburban Sprawl" crux, and the upper part is no longer "R" rated. The lower half of the route retains it's spicy flavor.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Silent Partner (5.10d)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: FA- Bingham / Goodwin '85


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Take a Hike (5.13a)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Stoger was definitely a stud. Before my eventual redpoint, I had a ratty top-rope set up on the route and Mike would run laps...Then he led it (without the life-dependant 2nd bolt),but jumped off the final move to save the "FA" for me. Ha!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Dungeon : The Heretic (5.13b)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Actually I did the FA of Ball and Chain while Tedd and Tony worked the harder stuff to the right and left. "The spud" hold did require some epoxy reinforcement, but was not "glued on"!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : King on the Throne : King on the Throne - East : Stan's Roof (5.10-)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Yep, 10- is a sandbag. After review, I'm going with 10c!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Twin Sisters
By: dave bingham When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Yes, I've seen a number of examples of "paraphrasing" of passages in my guide. And yes, it is a little annoying to see one's work doctored up and presented as original. But as long as it's not directly copied,it's just lazing writing, not plagiarism.

Better to just quote the source!

Thanks for noticing Aerili!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : The Crack House : It's Hard to Say No (5.7+)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification Rick. I think I got those names from Brad's notes several years ago.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : The Taco : Taco Supreme (5.10b)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: Yes, "Taco Time 5.8" is the furthest left route on the Taco formation. "Taco Supreme 10b" is second from the left, and starts with friction moves and small sidepull/underclings.

The route on the leaning "boulder"has a steep start 5.8/9 and a 5.7ish slab move up high to a chain anchor.


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : East Sector : The Taco : Taco Time (5.8)
By: dave bingham When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: There is a newish route just left of the upper "tunnel", not to be confused with "Taco Time". "Taco Time" is the furthest left route on the formation, and "Taco Supreme" 10b, is the 2nd to the right. "TS" takes optional small cams (I used 2).


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - East Face : It's Hard To Be A Saint In ... (5.12b)
By: dave bingham When: Mar 15, 2015

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Comments: Hi Mike, I hope you stumble upon this...

The original info I got from Brad had "Saint" at 12c and "Cold Feet" at 11c. You mention "Cold Feet" above as 12c...

I guess I'd better get on it to find out!


Location: ID : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : West Buttress - South : Drew's Corner (5.9) : Photo
By: dave bingham When: Mar 9, 2015

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Comments: Things are a little squeezed in here. I think "Bone Crack" is the wideish corner on the left, and "Drew's Dihedral" is the direct line that ends at the same anchor. Hope that helps.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Adolescent Homo (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: This super-obvious, super-popular route was surely climbed decades before Jay G. named it "Adolescent Homo". It never has been "Adolescent Homosexual" (except here on MP). I added the "sapien" part in the guidebook to quiet the critics while retaining some of the punky quality. Personally, I'd love to hear the original name - if they bothered to give it one.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Broadloaves - North : Savage Attack! (5.10d)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: I backed off this cool little crack back in the diem (when we were still speaking Latin). Good job pushing thru lads! Yes to a finish up the head-wall!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Bad Crack (5.10a)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: "Bad Crack" isn't really so bad - if you're into wide cracks. The 5.10 rating is outdated info. I led it last year and thought 5.8 or 9, and I suck at wide cracks. It's also pretty hard to avoid clipping at least one bolt on "Muffin Top", so it feels a bit contrived. Two-and-a-half stars? Not.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Incisor (5.8)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: I've never heard of this chimney being called "Incisor".


Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Terrebonne Jacks (5.10d)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: There used to be a fixed pin near the start of this fun route. Without the fixed gear, this route deserves a solid "R" rating. Otherwise, a great route with cool moves.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: dave bingham When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: We did a fun top-rope directly below the anchors of the first pitch. "Tail Feather" 10a** Avoid the crack and bush up top via slab moves to the right.


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