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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the hobo project ("Steel Reserve") was sent yesterday by Sam Davis! way to go!
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Location: Climbing Gear Discussion : Bolts Bolts Bolts : Post : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: the stone is crying
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Location: Jay Eggleston : CO Mountains : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Psyched to see you out and about jay!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Pinnacle : Batman and Robin (5.6)
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Charles. I don't think I have ever come across fixed belay anchors in Lumpy.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Citadel : Heart Of Norway (5.10c) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can pick your friends.
You can pick your nose.
but....
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : Pie in the Sky (5.12) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: oops! ;)
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Mt. Elden : West Elden : ... : Doug Scott Route (5.8)
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks ericm! which routes did you put anchors on?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle : Jolt Train (5.11)
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: an impressive flash first ascent to boot! It was great to follow Eric on this FA.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : Hobo Jungle
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big thanks also to Phil Rullman who found this hidden gem, realized the potential and brought me there last year to help put up new routes. We bolted the project above the hobo cave together as the first route. Welcome to the jungle! It has been great seeing the character of the routes develop and to give back to the positive and welcoming energy of the community.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Lu... (5.11-)
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: George, cool to see that you and David checked out this rare adventure! Despite early cleaning efforts around the time this route went down, I think that skid marks pitch may always have grafitti left by the swallows.... Regarding the crux bolt, though a 3/8" stud, I am pretty sure I sailed in a longer one despite the tedious drilling stance, if that gives ya any kind of piece of mind.
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Location: Honnold Solos Triple Crown ...
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: When is he going to free solo the Nose, Salathe, and... Zodiac.... in a day?
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: you almost cant see them!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Jun 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: you're supposed to equalize it with slinging the bush
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Volunteer Canyon : South Side : ... : Experimental Forrest (5.10+)
By: Darren Mabe When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 'Grey ghost' ha! Love it
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall
By: Darren Mabe When: May 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: excellent! that will be very helpful. i was so lost when i went down there for the first time.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Hipster Rock : Hip, Hip, Hurray (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : GNAR Meet
By: Darren Mabe When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gnarbarians! see you tonight!
spray on, spraya!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c/d) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: May 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah! I was kind of serious. I would try it if I was there.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c/d) : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: May 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Call it "Intermission."
Or linking Interstellar thru MI, then Roadrunner, traverse past Wiledhorses var, and then finish on .30-06 to the top?!
"Impossible Interhorse" ?!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
By: Darren Mabe When: May 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah!! Way to go, Daniel!
www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/woods_new_514d_in_clear_cre>>>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here is what happens using the Fixe pulley on that steel cable:
Not a big deal, but the braids cause the pulley to not track straight. I have had the best luck with BD's pulley. The nylon actually doesn't wear that badly and runs straight and smooth, and is cheap enough to replace if you drop it or you really spend that much time on Mission's tyrol (I am on my second pulley). Do not try the Petzl wheel... my buddy tried that and on one trip down the tyrol it turned into a doughy... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: glad you enjoyed the route! You guys should have seen it before it was cleaned! I called P3 the "Pitch of Despair" for a reason, though I am glad I didnt give up , because in hindsight was a small price of admission to the excellent 4th pitch finger crack, and exposed Window Pitch finale! It is a special route, especially considering its grade and length so close to Flagstaff..
EDIT: Regarding the end of the last pitch when the dihedral pinches down, some good gear that may help sew it up are a... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : West Face : Grapefruit Dance (5.12b)
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Coert: replace it with a bolt?!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : ... : Photo
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who is going to try the Switching Stem Corner pitch to top out the route (upper-right in above photo)? It looked burly but might go!? I pre-placed two protection bolts in the summit slabs where the corner stops, though I think it might need a bolt to protect the start of it. At the time, I imagined a shoulder-stand or some other shenanigan to place the first piece, but it didn't really work out that way....
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Darren Mabe When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better than Fine Jade in Castle Valley. Not to split hairs, but my pitch breakdown would be more like:
P1: 10+/11- stiff out of the gate, jamming the hollow flake. Watch for drag. 100'
P2: 10- elegant traversing face moves, and secure crack climbing with great feet. 70'
P3: 11 sustained bits of left-leaning fingers, some sharp thin hand jams and smears for you left foot. 75'
P4: 11- excellent with good rests and cool finishing sequence. I also thought this pitch was easier than the 3rd and I did... more >>
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