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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Dark Matter (5.11b)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I give it 4 stars for that kick-ass ending.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Jawa Jam (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very exciting for a 5.9 with killer exposure and a steep section that's a blast followed by a strange but fun corner ending. About as good as this grade gets in RC.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Endor Wall : Ewok Epic (5.6)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this one, a little more technical than the others.
I had an itch and this one supplied the scratch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Death Star : Vaders Penthouse (5.10c)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
This was a hard onsight, I felt like my light sabre was on the fritz.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Death Star : It's a Trap! (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd stick clip the first bolt even if 5.9 wasn't my limit. Strenous start.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Death Star : Fully Armed and Operational (5.10a/b)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great rock! Unrelenting from the start to finish. Seems longer than it looks. My favorite on this wall too.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Threshold : Photo
By: Darren Knezek When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rated it .11b maybe even .11c. I did it about the same time Andy did Funk. It has a cool rod-like chunk of limestone in one of the cruxes.
Plus that slab-like section near the start seemed quite spicy!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Appendage : Photo
By: Darren Knezek When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two climbs there already. Both are all gear climbs. The climb that starts just to the right of The Bulge and follows the crack in the corner is a 5.5. And the wide crack just to the left of Full Appendage, eventually joins the 5.5 to the left and is a 5.6. Both end and can use the anchors on Full Appendage. A set of nuts and cams would work for both although the wide crack would use a 6" cam for the start. There is also a 5.4 gear route in between The Edge and Wimps Toprope the Bulge.
... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Meat Wall : Tofu (5.6)
By: Darren Knezek When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the crack that's about six feet to the left of Step Into A Slim Jim or the next one to the left. Does it start in a chimney slot?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Church Rock : Regular Route (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Dec 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three Moki steps on the far right side of a huge hueco to start the route. You can place a large cam in the left side of the hueco and then more steps up to a huge bowl. Go up and a little left to a vertical section of huecos. A 4' sling for two natural threads and a 3.5" cam in another hueco protect this slightly scary section.
Like Ben said there's a pin for an anchor and if you have a bunch of webbing you can sling one of those dirt mushrooms for some additional support.
Hike up to ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Wishbone : North Face (The Wishbone) (5.8 A2+)
By: Darren Knezek When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great route Keen!!
I thought that the start was the crux and gets your blood flowing rather quickly.
I cleaned off the loose super-scary block on my way down. I just removed a small rock from off the top of the block and the entire rest of the block fell!!! It landed right where my belayer had been!
I replaced the webbing from off the top with quicklinks and a length of painted stainless steel chain. Both of Keen's drilled pitons looked awesome still.
I thought that the route was defi... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Darren Knezek When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, Doug Snively, and Anne Tarver, 1978.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Wild Works of Fire (5.11 R)
By: Darren Knezek When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Martin Wilberger and Romain Vogler, July 4, 1987.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Darren Knezek When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Hooman Aprin and Les Ellison, 1983.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.9+)
By: Darren Knezek When: Dec 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone forgot to add Brian Delaney to the FA along with jimmy.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tonka Tower : Tonka Tower (5.11)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In case you want to approach this tower as a free climb rather than an aid climb, here's what worked for me. Climb the chimney and belay on the sub-pillar. This seems around 5.8. I would break the last pitch into two pitches. For the second pitch climb a very short section past a sandy little block and belay on a ledge below two drilled angles. (You don't have to break this up into two pitches, but if you fell on the last section you would land directly onto this ledge with rope stretch.) Climb ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I redpointed this route around 5.12b one year ago in October. The first roof crack felt about 11a and after that the first couple of drilled angles were quite easy. The climb got more and more difficult until almost where it tops out. This is where the crux was. Great gear the entire way except for the start where like Sam said a "fall is substantial". The roof crack felt quite awkward and the face above was cool edges and small slopers. The rock is typical Arches sandstone and the face above ab... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Air China Flight 924 (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just when you are starting to think 5.8 is easy, this climb appears.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Brain Full of Spiders (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a cool line to do! What a lot of work to equip! The long belay on Allegro Energico must have planted the seed for this climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Jobsite : Air China Flight 924 (5.8 PG13)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks fun in some sick twisted chossy kind of way. Thanks for adding more pitches to my ever-growing list.
If you do Jungle Rot Slot, let me know how it compares!
Good job guys!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : George : Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Cra... (5.10a)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I already knew about this one, although I haven't done it yet. A guy told me about doing it around seven years ago. Here's the link to it.
www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah>>>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Scenic Turnout : Layback & Groove (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Christian,
This one's to the right of Jugs Judy.
Green Genes is to the left.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Boltergeist (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Called Boltergeist.
FA: Me and Stephen Burkholder.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Knightmare (5.11c)
By: Darren Knezek When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Called Knightmare.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Hobble Creek Canyon : The Original Wall
By: Darren Knezek When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This cliff never had a name, just the Hobble Creek Canyon Wall. I would probably call it The Original Wall since it was the first wall to be bolted in Hobble Creek. This was the first wall that Boone Speed, Jeff Pedersen, and Chris Laycock bolted before moving on to American Fork Canyon. They would most likely be the first "sport climbs" in Utah County. Bill Boyle and Vince Adams were there, but they were busy establishing a trad line. Both said it was one of the scariest trad leads of their car... more >>
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