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Location: UT : Saint George : Turtle Wall : Turtle Soup (5.10)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's a little picture of what you might feel like, if you get on this one expecting a soft .10b.
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Pocket Rocks
By: Darren Knezek When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook says, "Park at the end of the road, and then backtrack on foot 100' to the trail..."
It should say," Park at the end of the road, and the trail is up and to your left."
Many climbers get lost here, backtrack down the road and end up in between Pocket Rocks and Sprocket Rocks.
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Pocket Rocks : Shorty's Nightmare (5.10d)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Tyler,
Any idea what the D stands for in the FA by D. Mullens.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : The Fat Farm (5.10+)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Called, The Fat Farm.
FA= Darren Knezek and Bill Boyle
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Pocket Rocks : Sabie's Eight (5.8)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first names are probably Sabie and Bob.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Kitchen : Left Corner (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Mark Ward
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Kitchen : Mark's Corner (5.7)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Mark Ward
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : George : Last Call (5.4)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
Another one for the istians in their RC quest for trad obscurities.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Kitchen : Mark's Corner (5.7)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The line you drew in is a 5.7 called Mark's Corner.
Left Corner is the next crack to the right before you get to Double Jam.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : The Kitchen : Mr Numbers (5.10d)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Carl Horton
This climb has two eliminations to make it the 10d grade. You can't use any of the crack or the left wall of Right Corner, and you can't use the right arete, as that's another route put up before this one.
It was named after a climber who never called a route by its name, but by its grade.
Contrived, greasy, pumpy, historic- what more is there to ask for in a climb?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Red Slab : Playground (5.5)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Add Mark Hadnot in the FA along with Chris.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Hot Toddy (5.10b)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Charlie Fowler and Jack Roberts, January, 1987.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Battle of the Bulge (5.11)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Steve Hong, 1977.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was rated 5.11+ because it's a two-pitch climb, and that's the rating of the 2nd pitch that angles up and left thru a flare.
It had nothing to do with the two cracks at the bottom.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Quarter of a Man (5.12-)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Bob Rotert and Steve Hong
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA= Rich Wyatt
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Swedin-Ringle (5.12-)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Ed and Terry Wall : Hotwired (5.10b)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Called Hotwired.
FA= Jim Knight
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Triumphal Arch (5.10c)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Diminutive Wall : Two-Bit Grit (5.11b/c)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was Baldwin's first climb that he ever put up. He bought a drill bit at IME from Merril Bitter, drove to Ferguson, hiked in, and started to hand drill his first bolt. Next, he broke the drill bit, hiked back out, drove back to IME, bought another drill bit from Merril, drove back and hiked in, finished the first bolt, started to hand drill the second, broke another bit, hiked back out, drove back to IME, bought a second drill bit from Merril, drove back and hiked in, finished the second bol... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Friction Slab : Sundance (5.7)
By: Darren Knezek When: May 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder if you were on White Waltz, a route I think of Bill Feiges.
That was put up around 1979 and the route immediately to its left is Laurel, the 2 pitch 5.11 of Hunt and Bill Robins. Sundance is the 3rd route to the right of Laurel. I thought that Hunt's first name was Peter not Paul?
I thought that Sundance was put up in May by Webster and Orion's Bow in October of the same year, '84.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.6)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Bill Roos, Burnham Ardnt, and Denver Collins, September, 1969.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Friction Slab : Sundance (5.7)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Ed Webster, Patrick Griffin, and Udom Likhitwonnawut, May, 1984.
Originally rated 5.6.
Also, isn't this route the rightmost route on the wall and not the left.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Milky Way Wall : Milky Way (5.9)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loved this climb. I gave it 4 stars as it keeps going and going all the way to the very end.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Mission Control Block : We are go for Launch (5.8)
By: Darren Knezek When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my favorite on this wall. Its got that adventure feel to it.
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