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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Shine On (5.11d R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA party found this specific type of climbing difficult to rate. Consensus should be able to sort it out into something accurate, + or -. Please comment on the rating if you do it.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Obscured by Clouds (5.10d R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: aaack. The "shared" bolt on superfluous should be ignored if doing the route in the same style as the FA party did. However, it does make it a little more "sporty" getting to the second overlap. Clip it or skip it, your call. Keep in mind though that it wasn't/isn't really part of Obscured.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Superfluous Bolt (5.10a R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt mentioned that is out to the right is on Shine On, the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds. When the previous comments were made Shine On was still unfinished, which is no longer true.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face Left Side : Caliente (5.12c)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As much as we would have liked to have discovered/started Caliente, the fact is that we didn't. I'm not really sure how that inaccuracy came about, I think that perhaps Rick Accomazzo was under the impression that we were responsible. The bolts on the initial slab, as well as the crux intrusion bolt, were placed by John Long and Richard Harrison.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Voodoo Child (5.11b)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't remember that it was also off in the '93 guide. Guess it's been off for quite awhile now. (compare it to Disco Jesus which is also 11b and there's obviously a discrepancy)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Voodoo Child (5.11b)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like I've been getting in trouble with the posted ratings lately. See what happens when you post a rating that is the one straight out of the latest/current guide?
As a rule of thumb, I decided to post ratings on the routes I entered that were the same as those in the latest guide. Some of that may be related to having been accused of sandbagging at Suicide in the past.
Originally this route was called 10d. I did it again recently and little, if anything, has changed.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face Left Side : Caliente (5.12c)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating on this route has gone through some interesting transitions. Initially, I think Bachar called it 11+. Not.
When I first did it, it had managed to evolve to 12a (a really stout one) where it stayed for several years. In the above post it's referenced as 12b. The current guide calls it 12c, hence, the rating it has on this description.
Whatever. If the grade is within a letter or two it's good to go. You can decide the minutia of the letters for yourself.
There was a thread on ... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Gangway (5.12a)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jun 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the curving crack mentioned (as a start to either Ghostrider or Gangway) is Tanager. Previously it ended at the double bolts (as drawn), but now goes to the ledge.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : South Face : Disco Jesus (5.11b)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jun 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No major holds have broken off. The starting moves on P2 are just left of the belay (close). They do angle up and left a little as one goes, looking to get to the obvious undercling on the flake.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Ghostrider (5.10c)
By: Darrell Hensel When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tanager can now be done as another alternative for a first pitch. Might be the best start of them all. (See Tanager for specifics).
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Hesitation Direct (5.10d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Feb 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As the route description states, there are only two bolts on the pitch.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance (5.10b)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's another option for protecting the lieback on the first pitch. The nice thing about it is that it's small gear, stuff you're likely to have along for other routes (or the last pitch) anyway.
Go to the top of the flake that is just left of the crux lieback (or, doing the chimney moves at the top of the initial crack you'll naturally be there before moving right to the lieback).
Off the flake, step up on large face holds and put a couple of small cams (around .75) in a left leaning flake/... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Astroturf (5.10d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jan 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can understand the reference to a gray area. It is a little murky because of the whole tainted ethics, chopping, and subsequent re-leading by a different party. But keep in mind the ethics in play at the time, and just how strongly people felt about them.
More than anything, the Repo Man name was meant to capture the feeling that the line (which no one was ever going to do again unless it was replaced) had been re-established in the prevailing ethical style of the day - from which there had... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Astroturf (5.10d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both JW and I would like the pitch left as we did it, with 4 bolts.
I don't feel that there was any obligation on our part to replicate either the number or location of the original bolts since Power Fingers no longer existed as a route when Repo Man was done. We hadn't done Power Fingers before it was chopped, so there was no prior knowledge of the route involved in the bolt reduction. It was done on sight, ground up, and without aid (no hooks).
Also, Chris touches on a couple more reaso... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Astro Dome - North : Astroturf (5.10d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Regarding Repo Man - I feel that there are things to seriously consider with respect to adding a fifth bolt to the pitch, and I'll comment on them in another post.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Season's End (5.11c) : Photo
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would be a correct assumption. He's drilling the fifth bolt on the original line, just before traversing left.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Ishi (5.12d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob: Thanks for the clarification on the bolts.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Ishi (5.12d) : Photo
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice picture.
Regarding the marked bolts. There are only four bolts on the bottom section. The fifth marked one is in the corner (the first is down in the tree shadow) and is actually a piece of fixed gear and not a bolt.
If the x's denote fixed gear, then it's ok. But if they denote bolts, it's incorrect.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Ishi (5.12d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The beta pictures clearly show the extra belay (x'ed in) at the end of the initial left leaning arch. I want to say there wasn't originally a two bolt belay there, but now I'm not positive. Anyone remember for sure? Were there always two 1/4" bolts there, or did they just somehow get doubled?
I guess it certainly would be possible to belay there, although that's not how the route was done. I think it would ruin one of the things that makes the pitch the most rewarding - keeping one's ducks ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Godzilla's Return (5.10d)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once again... It's possible to combine the first two pitches which results in a more adventurous undertaking.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunkist Face : Jigsaw (5.10a R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not only is the bolt poorly located, it's an absolute piece of junk. It's an old 1/4" bolt that sees a lot of water runoff over it, so it's a rusty piece of you know what. Bad scene.
This route should get negative stars. No wait, how come we can't give something multiple bombs like we can stars? This could well be a four bomb route. Four nuclear bombs. (Sorry FA party - gotta tell it like it is...)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Eagle Pinnacle : The Untickable (5.12a) : Photo
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, that's reasonably close to what was said. I must say I was surprised to see that posted, and got a laugh from it. Too funny!
I've only seen/got a few of the pictures, so I'm still waiting to see the rest of the shots myself. Maybe I'll post a couple more at a later date if I can.
In reality, a bolt at the base of the ramp would detract from the route. It's best like it is, as it adds some excitement to the end of the runout.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills
By: Darrell Hensel When: Aug 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Per the Alabama Hills name: In the 1860's the town of Lone Pine was primarily Southern (Confederacy) in their sympathies with regard to the Civil War. The town of Independence on the other hand (~15 miles away), being a Federal Fort, was primarily Northern (Union) in their sympathies. The residents of Lone Pine named the Alabama Hills to commemorate the Confederate iron-clad warship Alabama, which was wrecking havoc on the Union fleet. To counter, the residents of Independence later named a ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : South Face : Disco Jesus (5.11b)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: By all means, combine pitches 2 and 3. Breaking them apart results in two very short pitches, reducing the challenge significantly. When combining the two pitches long runners on bolts 2, 4, and 5 will almost completely eliminate any rope drag. Not using long runners will result in rope drag.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunkist Face : Burning Down The House (5.12b R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Jul 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really slick and featureless rock. While it doesn't have any individual moves on it that are as hard as some other routes, I still found this to be perhaps the most serious lead I've done at either rock. I found there to be more than a couple of hard moves on it. And most of the hard climbing is not near the bolts. My feeling was/is that the moves from the first bolt up to about 20' above the third are almost all 5.11 or 5.12 with no place to really stop. In my book, a hard psychological le... more >>
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