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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Which direction is gravity?
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Tower Rock
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tower Rock is out of the new guide and sees little traffic these days and most of the nylon anchors are rotting. Be careful what you trust up there.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Zambezi Plunge (5.8)
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing the wide 2nd half of the route is pretty much an x rating without a number 6. I chickened out and went onto the bolts on the face.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pistol Ridge : Armed (5.10b)
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hueco is a very cool move that you can technique through. But the rock gets mossy and crumbly higher up. I went a little too far right and it got really crumbly and tried to kill me.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: DannyUncanny When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this and went down through painted bowl. The descent and walk down the canyon made this an extra long and tiring day, despite the moderate climbing. I took a look at a quick solo to the mountain summit, climbed halfway up the slot on the right after the low arch, but it was more than I was prepared for.
As for the descent, there is definitely a low commitment downclimb option. I think most people just never find it. At the very top of the terrace at the end of the climb, we went throu... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Ears Between (5.7)
By: DannyUncanny When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of fun. The ramp to the top of the chimney can be done in a single 70 m pitch, maybe 60m with a bit of simulclimbing. It's pretty vertical so not much rope drag.
On the descent, there is one rap down from the summit, then a short walk through a notch where you find a bolted rap anchor to get past a short steep chimney. You can skip this rappel if you don't mind crawling back down into the chimney and under a boulder. After that stick to the blocky ridge and aim for Eastpost. Don't get suck... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Buckingham Route (easy vers... (5.8)
By: DannyUncanny When: Aug 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route and rappel descent was littered with slings and quick links when I was there August 2011. The guide suggests double ropes and we brought them, but I think you could probably make it down fine on a single 60 m assuming that all the stations we saw were sound. Bring a bit of spare webbing incase they aren't. The long raps gave us a lot of trouble with stuck ropes.
On one of the rap stations about 100 m down from the summit, there is a very large loose block held in place with some cord.... more >>
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Location: NY : Adirondacks : Cascade Lakes Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: DannyUncanny When: Jul 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of July 2011 there is a grey alien stuck at the first belay with a broken trigger. It wiggles a bit and I think someone with a few very thin knives or tools hooked to the lobes could remove that sucker
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