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Member Since: Aug 27, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 5,081
Total Points: 78
Last Year: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has DannyUncanny been climbing?










Contributions


All 565 | Routes | Areas | Photos 13 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 539 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: DannyUncanny When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: I thought I was a solid 5.10 climber, but I ended up aiding the traverse and the squeeze.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Photo
By: DannyUncanny When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: If I recall correctly, that area is mostly made of mud with some very large stones loosely embedded in it. I would not choose to stand where the photographer is standing in this photo.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: DannyUncanny When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: Pulled a #1 camalot out of pitch 3. If you want to get down without getting your rope wet in the stream, the trick is to bridge the gap between the boulder and the wall, leaning left, and the rope will fall right on your head.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Snow Creek Wall : Outer Space (5.9)
By: DannyUncanny When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: The last two pitches make it all worthwhile. The third pitch of giant flexing flakes really adds to the pucker factor. Do your best not to pull out on them. If you do want to lever them with your body weight, try to move your belayer off to the side so they don't get crushed when you peel one of the big guys off.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Ultimate Everything (5.10-)
By: DannyUncanny When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: Really it's almost all bolted slab.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c) : Photo
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Which direction is gravity?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Tower Rock
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Tower Rock is out of the new guide and sees little traffic these days and most of the nylon anchors are rotting. Be careful what you trust up there.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Zambezi Plunge (5.8)
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Climbing the wide 2nd half of the route is pretty much an x rating without a number 6. I chickened out and went onto the bolts on the face.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pistol Ridge : Armed (5.10b)
By: DannyUncanny When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: The hueco is a very cool move that you can technique through. But the rock gets mossy and crumbly higher up. I went a little too far right and it got really crumbly and tried to kill me.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: DannyUncanny When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this and went down through painted bowl. The descent and walk down the canyon made this an extra long and tiring day, despite the moderate climbing. I took a look at a quick solo to the mountain summit, climbed halfway up the slot on the right after the low arch, but it was more than I was prepared for.

As for the descent, there is definitely a low commitment downclimb option. I think most people just never find it. At the very top of the terrace at the end of the climb, we went throu... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Ears Between (5.7)
By: DannyUncanny When: Aug 24, 2011

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Comments: Lots of fun. The ramp to the top of the chimney can be done in a single 70 m pitch, maybe 60m with a bit of simulclimbing. It's pretty vertical so not much rope drag.

On the descent, there is one rap down from the summit, then a short walk through a notch where you find a bolted rap anchor to get past a short steep chimney. You can skip this rappel if you don't mind crawling back down into the chimney and under a boulder. After that stick to the blocky ridge and aim for Eastpost. Don't get suck... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : Buckingham Route (easy vers... (5.8)
By: DannyUncanny When: Aug 24, 2011

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Comments: The route and rappel descent was littered with slings and quick links when I was there August 2011. The guide suggests double ropes and we brought them, but I think you could probably make it down fine on a single 60 m assuming that all the stations we saw were sound. Bring a bit of spare webbing incase they aren't. The long raps gave us a lot of trouble with stuck ropes.

On one of the rap stations about 100 m down from the summit, there is a very large loose block held in place with some cord.... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Pete's Farewell (5.7)
By: DannyUncanny When: Jul 11, 2011

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Comments: As of July 2011 there is a grey alien stuck at the first belay with a broken trigger. It wiggles a bit and I think someone with a few very thin knives or tools hooked to the lobes could remove that sucker